Best grit for sanding?

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lester622

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He is 1/2 right . Most primers are not a There is a filler coat that nasinn offers that goes on between the color and the clear to fill the scratches that some base coats won't hide .

Your base coat should only be 2 coats . It is there just for pigmentation . Yoir clear you can do several coats and can block / and wet sand that for your shine

This made me laugh ...

Ive never seen anybody only spray two coats of base and move on to clear. The painters at work who cut all the corners they can spray more than 2 coats of base. Also ive never seen anything that was finished in 400 have sand scratches in it. My dad was a painter/ body man for 35+ years and ive been painting and playing with body work since im 16 and we finished everything in 400 that includes multiple show cars that where done for customers.

Seen tons of stuff ppl bragged about how they finished the primer with 800-2000 peel though. Get them at the cruise nights mostly though

The filler your talking about between the basecoat and clearcoat ive never heard of and have never seen anybody use it that includes the tons of shops around this area. Seems like it be one more element to mess up since your now trying to get 3 different chemicals to all not react with one another.
 

Murd450

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I'm glad you found 20+ years of body experience amusing . I don't remember what the filler coat is called , but the one I'm talking about is specific to nasin and only used on certain colors . You only need 2 coats of base unless your worried about bleed through . And if your re painting the same color you don't even need primer if the original paint is ok . The best base for new paint is factory paint . ( depending on year and types of paint )

But now I'm done arguing pair with a 16 year old child with no experience . You obviously don't have the experience to know when not to be a know it all .let me know when you have painted more than a few cars your self

Let me know when you can turn this ( all by your self )
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Into this , with out your daddy's help .
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Murd450

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There are a lot of variables and 100's of differant products , there is no one way to do this . It is a proces that is verry hard to describe over the net .

Pick up some car craft , super Chevy , Chevy power mags . They have paint and body how to's every few months or so .
 

lester622

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I'm glad you found 20+ years of body experience amusing . I don't remember what the filler coat is called , but the one I'm talking about is specific to nasin and only used on certain colors . You only need 2 coats of base unless your worried about bleed through . And if your re painting the same color you don't even need primer if the original paint is ok . The best base for new paint is factory paint . ( depending on year and types of paint )

But now I'm done arguing pair with a 16 year old child with no experience . You obviously don't have the experience to know when not to be a know it all .let me know when you have painted more than a few cars your self

Let me know when you can turn this ( all by your self )
You must be registered for see images attach


Into this , with out your daddy's help .
You must be registered for see images attach

hahaha 16? I wish I just turned 28 actually. And my dad passed away 9 yrs ago so he hasn't been much help lately.

Your proud that you did some minor body work and a basic over all paint job? That's neat

My truck now was in worse shape than that not to mention I changed EVERYTHING in and on it, motor/trans, wiring harnesses from front to back, pulled the entire interior out, pulled all the suspension off, changed and setup the new rearend and this is the easiest one ive built for my self so far. Last 4 where totals.

But im not gonna keep arguing and post pictures on this thread to prove my point to an idiot. You think im a kid cool, think I don't know body and paint work that's even better I like it that way. If you want to continue pm me and ill show you that the camaro your proud of was easy compared to the stuff ive put together.

sorry op good luck with the primer
 

great white

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I'm glad you found 20+ years of body experience amusing . I don't remember what the filler coat is called , but the one I'm talking about is specific to nasin and only used on certain colors . You only need 2 coats of base unless your worried about bleed through . And if your re painting the same color you don't even need primer if the original paint is ok . The best base for new paint is factory paint . ( depending on year and types of paint )

But now I'm done arguing pair with a 16 year old child with no experience . You obviously don't have the experience to know when not to be a know it all .let me know when you have painted more than a few cars your self

Let me know when you can turn this ( all by your self )

Into this , with out your daddy's help .


I found that uncalled for.

Let's all try to be civil please......who starts it doesn't matter, it's how a person responds that does.
 

michael hurd

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Final sanding of paint or filler work should be done in P180, not 80 grit before priming with a 2K urethane primer surfacer. If you are not priming the entire panel, then backsand around the featheredge with P400 on an orbital. Work out to in both sanding and spraying.

One full coat over the area to be primed including over the feather edge, then second coat inside that, slightly smaller. You should not need more than 2 coats of a 2K primer to heal any issues, else your prep work wasn't good enough.

I would define your goal of priming, is it simply to make it one color, with no plans of painting it ever in the future? If you just want to apply some primer to make it one color and to seal the factory finish, I would apply an epoxy primer such as RM- BASF EP569 over it. The epoxy has a better water resistance than a urethane, but it is also slower to cure. ( have to apply it in a thin coat )

If overall primer / one color is your goal, I would buzz the factory paint down with P320 grit to give it tooth, no need to go finer. Red scotchbrite all of the panel edges before you start though.
 

michael hurd

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In response to final grits before paint,

Single stage urethanes - P400Grit orbital, P500 hand
Base / Clear P500 dry hand / P500 orbital * very light / fine metallics P600 orbital
 

great white

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Final sanding of paint or filler work should be done in P180, not 80 grit before priming with a 2K urethane primer surfacer. If you are not priming the entire panel, then backsand around the featheredge with P400 on an orbital. Work out to in both sanding and spraying.

One full coat over the area to be primed including over the feather edge, then second coat inside that, slightly smaller. You should not need more than 2 coats of a 2K primer to heal any issues, else your prep work wasn't good enough.

I would define your goal of priming, is it simply to make it one color, with no plans of painting it ever in the future? If you just want to apply some primer to make it one color and to seal the factory finish, I would apply an epoxy primer such as RM- BASF EP569 over it. The epoxy has a better water resistance than a urethane, but it is also slower to cure. ( have to apply it in a thin coat )

If overall primer / one color is your goal, I would buzz the factory paint down with P320 grit to give it tooth, no need to go finer. Red scotchbrite all of the panel edges before you start though.

This does raise a good point.

If you are looking for a "Suede" finish like the rods of old, they make a finish paint that looks like black primer but has the protective qualities of finish paint.

I've seen it used on several lead sled type vehicles.

Can't recall the brand or type ATM.

Worth looking in to if that's what you're after.

:)
 

AA13

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To keep it simple, sand with 320 if you're gonna spray primer. Sand with 600 when you're gonna spray your base coat and make sure you dont have any shiny spots. As for the other guys, I've painted for a few years now and most of the time I spray more than 2 coats of base, depending on the color I'm spraying and what color I'm spraying it over..
 
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