Alternator good but not charging battery

[someotherguy]

Dielectric grease is non-conductive; too much of it and allowing it to be on contact surfaces will cause problems. It's supposed to surround the contact to prevent oxidation. I'd clean those pins well with DeOxit and try again. I wouldn't put dielectric grease on there unless you live in some tropical rainforest. Even in SE Texas where it's stupid humid we don't generally see a lot of trouble on interior connections unless it's a flood car.

Richard

 

[Ken K]

it appears there is a diode at the pink wire/ bulb connection.

GM schematics show terminal direction. Arrow pointing out is a male pin. Arrow pointing in, is female connection. Also, the 194 peanut bulb allows B+ thru it to excite the alternator, but acts as the current limiting device. A hot bulb, when on has high resistance. While voltage remains unchanged, current drops to 0.25 amps.
Many passenger cars used a parallel circuit around the bulb but with a 460-470 ohm resistor. If an aged bulb blows out the alternator would stop working, having a parallel circuit with matching resistance allows a second path for reduced amps but full B+ to excite the regulator and keep it working.
ASE Master Tech - Retired

 

[GoToGuy]

Dielectric grease is non-conductive; too much of it and allowing it to be on contact surfaces will cause problems. It's supposed to surround the contact to prevent oxidation. I'd clean those pins well with DeOxit and try again. I wouldn't put dielectric grease on there unless you live in some tropical rainforest. Even in SE Texas where it's stupid humid we don't generally see a lot of trouble on interior connections unless it's a flood car.

Richard

Do you have references for not using dielectric, or DC4 compounds. If your not ok with it thats fine, actual technical and lab testing has shown its not evil. Whether required or as a preventive there is no downside to using it unless it is prohibited. Applying DC4 will not degrade the connection or performance.