1965truckrod
Newbie
Welcome to the 99 club. I have your burb's big brother a 99 K2500 7.4L SLT.
I'll give you one piece of advice that has helped many a friend and customer (Shop owner for several years). Synthetic Oil is fine for a low mileage car, or an engine that has had it during it's entire life. What I do for my customers and also my own cars, I run Diesel oil (15w40 or the like) and then run about half a bottle of Lucas Oil Treatment. Once an engine hits the 150k mark, most gaskets and seals have hardened up fairly well unless they were refreshed for whatever reason, most engines never get opened up and moving to a synthetic oil where previously unknown or traditional oil, you'll find every leak that engine has as the synthetic will find any cracks or holes it can get to.
Thus far I have more than a handful of customers that are still driving their vehicles with 200+K one is over 500k and still running like a champ (Toyota Camry). I buy the stuff in bulk as I use it on everything including customers boats; Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40, comes in a blue bottle, sometimes dark grey. The stuff is amazing and price isn't bad either. Just my 2 cents of course.
I am planning on doing a lift most likely as well, I have already changed out the Torsion Keys to level the front out, but I'd like to run a slightly larger tire than I have now (265/75/R17) BFG K02 A/T. I don't think I'll be able to do that until I have a bit more room and not have rub at lock out.
I currently have Fox 2.0's on all 4 corners and they significantly helped with the bouncy front end and absorbing bumps. Being that the Keys have lifted the front up, it's a bit more bouncy and it is my understanding that the only way to reduce that bouncing would be running dual shocks up front which would require a custom cage, or get a lift kit that moves the suspension farther away from the frame, but keeping the geometry of the torsion bars the same as they are moved away as well. In theory I could run the factory torsion keys and the bounce would be reduced significantly. I would ideally like to run a pair of King shocks either double or triple bypass, but those are dreams of course. The rear end doesn't really need more absorption like the front does so just a longer shock will be required when I do the rear lift (longer leafs, not those crappy blocks).
I'll give you one piece of advice that has helped many a friend and customer (Shop owner for several years). Synthetic Oil is fine for a low mileage car, or an engine that has had it during it's entire life. What I do for my customers and also my own cars, I run Diesel oil (15w40 or the like) and then run about half a bottle of Lucas Oil Treatment. Once an engine hits the 150k mark, most gaskets and seals have hardened up fairly well unless they were refreshed for whatever reason, most engines never get opened up and moving to a synthetic oil where previously unknown or traditional oil, you'll find every leak that engine has as the synthetic will find any cracks or holes it can get to.
Thus far I have more than a handful of customers that are still driving their vehicles with 200+K one is over 500k and still running like a champ (Toyota Camry). I buy the stuff in bulk as I use it on everything including customers boats; Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40, comes in a blue bottle, sometimes dark grey. The stuff is amazing and price isn't bad either. Just my 2 cents of course.
I am planning on doing a lift most likely as well, I have already changed out the Torsion Keys to level the front out, but I'd like to run a slightly larger tire than I have now (265/75/R17) BFG K02 A/T. I don't think I'll be able to do that until I have a bit more room and not have rub at lock out.
I currently have Fox 2.0's on all 4 corners and they significantly helped with the bouncy front end and absorbing bumps. Being that the Keys have lifted the front up, it's a bit more bouncy and it is my understanding that the only way to reduce that bouncing would be running dual shocks up front which would require a custom cage, or get a lift kit that moves the suspension farther away from the frame, but keeping the geometry of the torsion bars the same as they are moved away as well. In theory I could run the factory torsion keys and the bounce would be reduced significantly. I would ideally like to run a pair of King shocks either double or triple bypass, but those are dreams of course. The rear end doesn't really need more absorption like the front does so just a longer shock will be required when I do the rear lift (longer leafs, not those crappy blocks).
