1999 Suburban AC Question

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sneakingfart

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Hi Everyone,

I have a question, and hopefully you all will tell me that this is just how the AC these trucks is supposed to function. A little back story, since I am new here. I was able to get a 1999 Suburban in non-running and poor cosmetic condition for free from a relative who didn't want it. Long story short, I really like these old trucks, but have no experience with them. It has now been cosmetically restored and all the mechanical issues sorted, and it is a completely reliable driver. The AC was not functional when I got it, so I have no baseline, and the leak was in two places. The previous owner screwed up the high pressure Schrader valve on the compressor manifold, and the compressor itself was leaking where the 2 parts of it meet in the middle. I replaced the compressor with the same Delco unit, the accumulator, orifice tube, high and low schrader valves, and all easily reachable o-rings. The accumulator was stuck where the evaporator core pipe enters it, and I did end up crimping the pipe somewhat while trying to remove it, but there are no leaks that I know of. In the end, the system held vacuum for over an hour with no drop, and was refilled with the right amount of r134A, given that I have rear AC, it took 64 Oz I believe. But I put in whatever was on the sticker on the accumulator for rear AC equipped trucks. Compressor oil was also added. I have never used any stop-leak (but I can't speak regarding the previous owner), and I put in r134A with dye. No obvious leaks are present.

Now, the AC blows cold when the ambient temp is in the low 80s, and I get around 40 degrees on the center dash vent. When ambient temps are in the 90s and I am driving, I get around 45 to 48. Problem is, when I am idling in traffic and I have both the dash and rear AC running, the temp is closer to 60. When moving at speed, it will eventually drop to the mid-high 40s. If I turn off the rear AC and slow down the fan on the dash AC, the temps are even colder. My only frame of refence is my 2022 BMW X5 with front and rear AC, and it's much colder at idle. Of course it has electric fans on the condenser. Ultimately, I need to know if this is normal behavior for these trucks, or is there something I am missing? Engine fan clutch is good. I checked pressures today, at 85 degrees ambient temp with the front and rear AC fans at max speed, recirculate on and windows and doors closed, and I got 40 PSI on the low side and 225-230 on the high. Seems fairly appropriate I think. Thanks everyone for your help.
 

sneakingfart

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Thank you, I will try that when I get home from work tomorrow. Just to clarify, are you talking about the coolant bypass hose that goes into the heater core? Are you thinking a problem with the valve there? Also, I forgot to mention, the condenser is clean and appears in good shape.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Thank you, I will try that when I get home from work tomorrow. Just to clarify, are you talking about the coolant bypass hose that goes into the heater core? Are you thinking a problem with the valve there? Also, I forgot to mention, the condenser is clean and appears in good shape.

I am talking about the heater hose going into the heater core tubing. The valve may not be closing and even when they do close as well as factory, they still leak coolant into the core.
 

sneakingfart

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I tried clamping the hose, no change in temp. It was the relatively flimsy hose from the passenger side of the intake manifold that goes through the firewall. 91 degrees today, the rear ac set on low and front set to medium, driving average 45 mph, I was getting 45 or so degrees from the center vent. Parked with the heater hose clamped, all ac fans on high, Temps around 60. I'm thinking this may just be how it is designed? I'm not necessarily looking to make it better (although would be nice if possible), rather i want it to operate as designed. If this is normal, then it is what it is. The pressures I think were appropriate (maybe the low side was a touch low), so if there are no restrictions, I'm not sure where else to look.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I tried clamping the hose, no change in temp. It was the relatively flimsy hose from the passenger side of the intake manifold that goes through the firewall. 91 degrees today, the rear ac set on low and front set to medium, driving average 45 mph, I was getting 45 or so degrees from the center vent. Parked with the heater hose clamped, all ac fans on high, Temps around 60. I'm thinking this may just be how it is designed? I'm not necessarily looking to make it better (although would be nice if possible), rather i want it to operate as designed. If this is normal, then it is what it is. The pressures I think were appropriate (maybe the low side was a touch low), so if there are no restrictions, I'm not sure where else to look.
Worth a shot anyway. Another quick check is the accumulator. Is the accumulator and suction line off the accumulator cold? Another thing I would check is the fan clutch. You say it is good, but I have seen others tell me theirs is good and it is not. At 1,500 rpm it should have enough blow from the engine fan to blow a baseball cap off your head with the 11 bladed OE fan. Heat soaked at idle, you should not be able to stop the fan with the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towls. With poor airflow, I suspect your high side pressure would be higher though. Equally important is that the condenser is clean and the fins are straight and not bent over. I pressure wash and straighten mine every couple of years with a condenser comb.

My Tahoe would cool at 45°F stopped with the fans on high in 100+F. It had the OE pusher electric fan so the results on it may have been skewed compared to trucks without it. My brothers 99 Suburban was cold as well but it would hold around 50-52F at idle.

45°F on the highway does not seem like it is cooling as well as it could in only 91°F.
 
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sneakingfart

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Thank you. The accumulator is quite cold (if I am only running the dash AC on a low or medium setting, it would actually form frost on it, as well as the tubing going into the compressor low side. And I did replace it when I was fixing the AC system (wish I hadn't actually, as I did kink the tubing going to the evaporator while trying to remove it). It was quite seized. That alone does introduce a restriction into the system, as it's a decent kink, but removing the dash to replace the evaporator is something I am hoping not to do, lol. Do you think that could be a contributing factor?

Without removing the fan clutch to physically inspect it, there is no wobble or lateral motion of the fan, and it is tight to turn. At 1500 RPMs there seems to be quite a bit of air flow. I don't have a frame of reference unfortunately, as all my other cars have electric fans, but I did have a Tacoma 20 years ago, and this seems to blow harder (bigger fan certainly). I will try the paper towel roll trick when I run out of my roll of towels.

The condenser is clean, at least from the front. There are a handful of bent fins from road debris, but nothing significant. Can the condenser be dirty from the back, where it faces the radiator? If so, any good way to clean it without removing it? Should I just blast it with my power washer? I have a 3700 PSI washer. But yea, I wish it was as simple as a heater core valve that is no longer competent, but I didn't get any change from clamping the tubing that goes to it.

But I agree with you, there does seem to be some loss of efficiency. With the dash AC only, at highway speeds, and 91 degrees, I get 40-42 degrees. On a warm night (no sunlight to warm up the car), I can get 38 degrees idling with just the dash AC. The major loss of efficiency seems to be when I turn on the rear AC blower.

52 at idle is pretty good. I was about 56 to 58 today with all blowers on max at idle. Not terrible, still a good 30 degrees lower than ambient, but if I can find more efficiency out of the system, I would definitely take it.
 

east302

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For what it’s worth, here is GM’s spec for the a/c for a 98…

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sneakingfart

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Hmm, that's good to know. I didn't realize it should be checked at 2000 RPM, for some reason I assumed it was idle, and I didn't realize how much humidity plays a role. In this case, I may be well within spec.
 
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