GM PART # 16155095

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someotherguy

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A little late to the post here but the ONLY metal-back cluster with needles is from '91. :)

Richard
 

88GMCtruck

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Since you mentioned the AT vs MT, I will point out that the needle 91-94 clusters just use a block out plate where the PRNOD21 indicator is. All it consists of is the same bracket without the needle, a piece of foam and a blank piece of plastic over it. I needed it when I swapped my truck from AT to MT.

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Brady

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Made the buy. Also grabbed a cd pocket for the dash.
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someotherguy

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Price was so-so, I think anywhere from $75-$150 is the range for these. They're not easy to find being a one year cluster. Yours looks like accurate low miles with the very nice unfaded needles, so I think you caught a good score there.

I also see you're prepared to install a DIP switch for calibrating the speedo; good man. :)

You probably already know this but you need to move 3 wires around on your dash harness connector for that '91 cluster to work in an '88-'90. I have the info around here somewhere if you don't.

Richard
 

Brady

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Price was so-so, I think anywhere from $75-$150 is the range for these. They're not easy to find being a one year cluster. Yours looks like accurate low miles with the very nice unfaded needles, so I think you caught a good score there.

I also see you're prepared to install a DIP switch for calibrating the speedo; good man. :)

You probably already know this but you need to move 3 wires around on your dash harness connector for that '91 cluster to work in an '88-'90. I have the info around here somewhere if you don't.

Richard

I've read your info and have it saved for reference, and for that I sincerely thank you. As far as the DIP switch yes, installing that as well. The thing that I do not know, and it really shows my novice-ness, is I need to run a wire to the "coil" for the tach to pick up. Correct? I cannot find any images on this and not sure where that needs to go.
 

badazzbulldog

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Yes but if he wanted to put an escalade cluster in a 88-91 he'd have to swap out the whole interior for a post 94 interior. I'd rather pay a little more for a part that's plug n play instead of doing all that work.
was comparing the price not telling him to put an escalade one in his truck
 

Brady

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Question 2 - how, without total plastic annihilation, can I slide the plug out to access it better in order to modify it? It's baffling me and when I get frustrated I break plastic pieces.
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someotherguy

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You would think once you slide it to the left you should be able to angle it back and pop it out of the hole. Problem is, the harness is attached behind that area in a little sheath with a couple 10mm headed screws, if I recall correctly. You may find you need to tilt the dash forward for more access. 5 screws across the top (1 under each speaker grille, 3 in the defrost vent), lower the column, pop the kick panels off, and pull the single bolt at each end under the bottom corner - the dash will hinge forward on those studs sticking out of the kick panels and stop at about a 45 degree angle, giving you access to the wiring behind it.

Tach wire may already be run; a lot of people have found they didn't need to add anything. If not, look at the harness near your coil and you'll find a white wire with a single connector on it, not connected to anything, usually taped back to the wiring loom near the coil. That's the tach output "test" connection for a diagnostic tach, but it's also a convenient spot for you to hook up.

Richard
 
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