Tbi 350 has no power on the road

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Mitchell93

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For shyt;s and giggles would verify distibutor in not off a tooth or two. Advancing, etc.
The distributor was off a tooth when I got it, but it was adjusted enough it really didn't matter, the wires going to the coil were tight, I put it in correctly and set base timming to zero
 

Mitchell93

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is your firing order correct and are all cylinders firing? can you smell gas out the tail pipe? if your exhaust smells "rich" it usually means raw fuel which. is incomplete combustion. I am not to sure what your skill level is, usually you can hear if a cam is worn that badly or bad lifters. another easy check is to roll the engine over by hand and see what the valve lift is if you're worried about a worn cam.
Firing order is 100% correct, double, triple check every time I hook up wires, exhaust doesn't smell that rich, maybe a tad gassy but I've smelled worse... I have no engine noise to speed of, honest sounds very healthy, I can pick up a dial indicator this week and check my valve lift, found on alldata its 0.2565" for intake and 0.2690" for exhaust, + or - 0.002"
 

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The distributor was off a tooth when I got it, but it was adjusted enough
No. It nas got to be right or advance curves etc are off. Close enough just isn't good enough here. Won't necessarily trigger a misfire code and doesn't mean the spark isn't early or late. It's called distibutor phasing . look it up. You just can't drop a distibutor in anywhere you like. you might think you can adjust a phasing issue but you can't, not possible

gassy? fuel washing the rings? Oil smell like gas too?
 
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No. It nas got to be right or advance curves etc are off. Close enough just isn't good enough here. Won't necessarily trigger a misfire code and doesn't mean the spark isn't early or late. It's called distributor phasing . look it up. You just can't drop a distributor in anywhere you like.
 

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It's called distibutor phasing . look it up. You just can't drop a distibutor in anywhere you like.
TBI and most previous systems, the distributor can be dropped in anywhere it'll both fit and adjust to the correct initial timing. There was some talk about early ('50s--'60s) distributor housings that would block oil flow to one bank of lifters if it was installed way off of stock--but the ignition timing wouldn't have to be affected.

Not necessarily true for Vortecs. They're picky.
 

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TBI and most previous systems, the distributor can be dropped in anywhere it'll both fit and adjust to the correct initial timing. There was some talk about early ('50s--'60s) distributor housings that would block oil flow to one bank of lifters if it was installed way off of stock--but the ignition timing wouldn't have to be affected.

Not necessarily true for Vortecs. They're picky.
Yes they are picky, multiple acticles on the net and MSD site about disributor phasing, there is such a thing. Initial timing is your key word, whether you want to educate yourself is another story. Initial is easy, What it's doing while it's advances is another with pick up coil, reluctor alignment off etc.

the distributor can be dropped in anywhere it'll both fit and adjust to the correct initial timing, another wives tale that just needs to die. It wasn't even true in 1980.
 
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Schurkey

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The only bulletin from MSD that I'm aware of covers ROTOR phasing, not "distributor" phasing.

Rotor phasing should be engineered-in by the factory, for factory-style initial timing and timing advance, and with factory-style cam positioning.

Add in cams that get advanced or retarded, and initial timing that may be locked at 35-ish degrees or have the centrifugal/vacuum advance custom-tuned, higher cylinder pressure; and keeping the rotor tip aligned with the distributor cap terminals becomes important enough to tweak to perfection.

Point being, you can drop in "most" distributors on stock or mild engines in any position, any gear mesh you can imagine PROVIDED the distributor will physically fit and turn far enough to achieve proper initial timing...and the engine won't run a bit differently than if it's set to factory spec for position and the same initial timing. Guys screw this up all the time, and either they turn the distributor body 'til it looks like it was crammed-in by a seventh-grader, or folks tell them to move the plug wires over "one terminal" or "four terminals" to correct the timing.

Vortecs are different.
 

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The only bulletin from MSD that I'm aware of covers ROTOR phasing, not "distributor" phasing.

Rotor phasing should be engineered-in by the factory, for factory-style initial timing and timing advance, and with factory-style cam positioning.

Add in cams that get advanced or retarded, and initial timing that may be locked at 35-ish degrees or have the centrifugal/vacuum advance custom-tuned, higher cylinder pressure; and keeping the rotor tip aligned with the distributor cap terminals becomes important enough to tweak to perfection.

Point being, you can drop in "most" distributors on stock or mild engines in any position, any gear mesh you can imagine PROVIDED the distributor will physically fit and turn far enough to achieve proper initial timing...and the engine won't run a bit differently than if it's set to factory spec for position and the same initial timing. Guys screw this up all the time, and either they turn the distributor body 'til it looks like it was crammed-in by a seventh-grader, or folks tell them to move the plug wires over "one terminal" or "four terminals" to correct the timing.

Vortecs are different.
I hear ya man but "correct" there's only one way, stock you may never notice it's off, doesn't mean it's right, symptoms are a high end miss, power problems. This guy has seemed to check all the other boxes, this would be on my checklist.
 
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