'97 K1500 Suburban 5.7L Starter Choices

Caman96 said:

GM Genuine/Acdelco is confusing. Here’s an example. First picture shows part on Acdelco site. They are listed together and as same part. I even emailed them and they confirmed it’s same part.

You must be registered for see images attach

But on many sites, including RockAuto, they are listed separately and the “GM Genuine for considerably more.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

DISCLAIMER: I have no real evidence to back this up, just something I'm inclined to believe based on my observations regarding this subject...

I think a lot of that confusion comes from suppliers choosing which part number (GM or ACDelco) to use when creating the listing. People are used to paying more for the OEM GM parts, so the distributors will separate them by part number even if they're the exact same part.

For example... I was researching multi-function switches for the 'burb today (posted another thread in the Audio + Electronics section, cruise control issue) and noticed this same thing. If you look up the GM part number on GM Parts Direct or Wholesale GM Parts Online, it's $330. If you look up the ACDelco part number for the exact same part on RockAuto or Amazon, it's $200.

As others menitoned earlier:

ACDELCO 3371022



I've had one of these on my Suburban's L31 since 2012.

No problems yet.

Knock on wood.

What they market today as this part may have no lineage to what I bought in 2012.

Like @df2x4, the Suburban's on its 3rd 4L60E but only its 2nd starter. I can tell you this; the starter was a lot easier to replace.

1998_K1500_Sub said:

As others menitoned earlier:

ACDELCO 3371022

I've had one of these on my Suburban's L31 since 2012.

No problems yet.

Knock on wood.

Click to expand...

Looks like the PMGR version of the direct drive ACDelco Gold 3371018 that Caman96 posted, and about the same price too.

Did you have any issues installing it? Heat shield fitment, etc? If not then this may be a top contender at the moment.

df2x4 said:

Did you have any issues installing it? Heat shield fitment, etc? If not then this may be a top contender at the moment.

Click to expand...

Well, it was 10+ years ago, but IIRC it was relatively straight-forward.

I'm quite certain I didn't have to pull the exhaust down-pipe.

I might have had to remove the NVH reinforcing bar that runs from the transmission up to the engine mount nearby. I know it's in the vicinity, but I simply can't remember if I had to doink with it.

Denso 281-8102.
Installed mine in February. New starter from a trusted brand. I added a DEI starter heat shield since I couldn't reuse the factory shield. Smaller, lighter, more powerful.

1. I bet the starter on that vehicle is a PMGR unit.

2. When it was me, I put PMGR units on my '88 5.7L, and my '97 7.4L. I did this even though I have all the parts to rebuild the old direct-drive units sitting in a parts cabinet in my shop.


3. If you don't already have a PMGR unit, you'll need new starter bolts to the block. ACDelco/GM sells 'em, they're cheap. The bolt holes in the starter are 10mm, but the threaded holes in the block are 3/8-16. Therefore, the bolts are "special" in that they've got a larger shank that tapers down to the correct size for the block. ARP sells a competing design, I like the GM bolts better.
(Photo updated)


Added photo: ARP mini-starter bolts. Note different location of taper.


4. My 5.7L had a direct-drive starter that used a solenoid heat shield; I re-drilled a hole on the shield, added a bigass hose clamp, and made it work on the PMGR starter solenoid. (Photo updated)


5. While "New" seems like the logical choice, "New" generally means "Made in China to the lowest-possible price point." At least with a rebuilt, the main pieces are almost certainly made right by the OEM; wear-parts may be cheap-junk.

6. My previous, direct-drive starter on the 5.7L was "hot-rodded" with the Ford-solenoid-on-the-fender trick. This DOES NOT WORK with the mini-starters. They'll stay engaged for a second or two when you release the key, leading to grinding noises. You can therefore ignore the white wire visible in the photo of the PMGR starter with the heat shield. That white wire lasted about three days before I couldn't take it any more, and re-wired the starter back to "stock" configuration.

Schurkey said:

3. If you don't already have a PMGR unit, you'll need new starter bolts to the block. ACDelco/GM sells 'em, they're cheap. The bolt holes in the starter are 10mm, but the threaded holes in the block are 3/8-16. Therefore, the bolts are "special" in that they've got a larger shank that tapers down to the correct size for the block. ARP sells a competing design, I like the GM bolts better.

Click to expand...

Do you have a part number for those bolts, by chance?

Schurkey said:

If you don't already have a PMGR unit, you'll need new starter bolts to the block. ... the bolts are "special" in that they've got a larger shank that tapers down to the correct size for the block.

Click to expand...

Now *that's* interesting.

I looked back at my order from RockAuto and it appears I ordered that starter alone (sans bolts). Delivered price, $124.05, in Sept2012.

Maybe I picked up new, larger diameter mounting bolts elsewhere. Or maybe I didn't

Oh well, it's been 10+yrs since I installed it. Whatever it is, it is.

That Bosch starter is probably pretty nice. I like getting new over reman also.

I worked for a local parts store that sold acdelco stuff and we got “training” on their different lines. ( gold, professional, etc…) but I dont remember the differences. I’ll look and see if I can find the paper work they gave us.