Starter insulation bushing

[Schurkey]

I got the starter reinstalled. And it cranks waaaaay slower than before. I'm going to check the connections tomorrow, ran out of time this evening. But anything else I should look at?

1. Battery open-circuit voltage. Better be 12.6--12.7.
2. Battery voltage when cranking. Ought to be 11-ish, varies with temperature. Higher is better.
3. Battery cable voltage drop--positive side and negative (ground) side. Assure the battery cable ends, and the battery terminals are both nicely-clean/shiny, (no corrosion) and tight.* See illustration.

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4. Actual starter amperage draw. Requires a high-amperage ammeter, or a generally-not-accurate cheapie self-contained inductive ammeter.

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If it's not found in the electrical side of the starter system, maybe you've got an engine or accessory that is seizing. I had a CS130 alternator go bad, (which was REALLY common) and it locked-up so bad that the starter couldn't crank the engine until I removed the belt. Similarly, I had an A/C compressor clutch bearing go bad, the starter couldn't crank the engine until the serpentine belt broke.

*Just a few days ago, I was dealing with an "alternator" problem; GMC Sonoma "S10" pickup wouldn't start, battery dead. Yeah, that's what happens when the negative battery cable is loose. This family has five cars, five drivers, and only one car actually ran. The Sonoma has been down for the count for months on end, 'cause no-one could tighten a battery cable and put a charger on the battery (which of course froze solid over the winter.)

 

[kvgsqtii]

1. Battery open-circuit voltage. Better be 12.6--12.7.
2. Battery voltage when cranking. Ought to be 11-ish, varies with temperature. Higher is better.
3. Battery cable voltage drop--positive side and negative (ground) side. Assure the battery cable ends, and the battery terminals are both nicely-clean/shiny, (no corrosion) and tight.* See illustration.

You must be registered for see images attach

4. Actual starter amperage draw. Requires a high-amperage ammeter, or a generally-not-accurate cheapie self-contained inductive ammeter.

You must be registered for see images attach

If it's not found in the electrical side of the starter system, maybe you've got an engine or accessory that is seizing. I had a CS130 alternator go bad, (which was REALLY common) and it locked-up so bad that the starter couldn't crank the engine until I removed the belt. Similarly, I had an A/C compressor clutch bearing go bad, the starter couldn't crank the engine until the serpentine belt broke.

*Just a few days ago, I was dealing with an "alternator" problem; GMC Sonoma "S10" pickup wouldn't start, battery dead. Yeah, that's what happens when the negative battery cable is loose. This family has five cars, five drivers, and only one car actually ran. The Sonoma has been down for the count for months on end, 'cause no-one could tighten a battery cable and put a charger on the battery (which of course froze solid over the winter.)

Was able to make all these measurements except the current draw. Everything measured out normal, but starter was still spinning slow. Then, nothing. Smacked it with a hammer and it would work. Got tired of that real quick and ordered a pg260 off RockAuto. Got the correct bolts from Napa this morning and everything works great. The pg260 is soooooooooo much easier to install and get the wires hooked up to.

Thanks to everyone who offered up insight and advice.