Wiper pulse board

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Chevy66driver

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So i think I've found my wiper motor and pulse board. Trying to fix my wipers, which won't go off. Ordered a board that supposedly fits from ebay before looking under the hood.
I go to slap it in, and I can't figure out where it goes. What I think is the pulse board looks nothing like the part I bought. Can't figure this out.
First photo is with board removed.
Second photo is of board

1988 Silverado k1500 extended cab
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MIHELA

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That is the old style 88-89 pulse board. The square one is for the newer motor which can be retrofitted to your truck. I don't think you can easily get the older pulse modules any more.
 

10mm Nut

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The later type is a direct replacement. Just remove the old and replace with the new. Same electrical plug snaps right in place.

I once got in a bind on my 89 and needed to fix my wipers immediately and didn't have the time to hit the junkyards or source a used replacement otherwise so I just went to O Reillys and got a reman for a later model truck and dropped my early model core into the box and they didn't care. Updating to the later generation motor is about the only option the early guys have nowadays.
 

DerekTheGreat

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How do I retrofit?

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You don't. You remove that brick of a wiper motor & place it in the trash. Then you go to a bone yard and pull the updated wiper motor from a GMT400 and install in place of your old motor like mentioned above, it's a direct swap. Save the board you bought incase the one you have is junky. They say you can reflow the solder on the newer boards to fix the issues they have, but I haven't had luck doing that.
 

Chevy66driver

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Ok. Well, I bought a soldering iron from Napa because I have come across a few other online fixes involving one, so why not have one for next time right?
Tried soldering. Have no idea what I'm doing, but I'll let you know if it worked!
If it didn't, off to the scrapyard...
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Erik the Awful

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Not bad for a first attempt. It takes practice.

The solders on the left don't look like they're making a connection. You have to get the solder on the board to melt with the solder you're adding.

Also, every one of those has about twice as much solder as needed. When re-flowing solder, don't add any more unless you really need to. Just heat up the two pieces that need reconnecting and let the solder between them melt and connect again.

Desoldering wick works great for removing excess or old solder, but I think you'll be fine so long as you reflow the two on the left.
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Solder-Packs-Desoldering-Length/dp/B073TRWY19/
 

Chevy66driver

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Not bad for a first attempt. It takes practice.

The solders on the left don't look like they're making a connection. You have to get the solder on the board to melt with the solder you're adding.

Also, every one of those has about twice as much solder as needed. When re-flowing solder, don't add any more unless you really need to. Just heat up the two pieces that need reconnecting and let the solder between them melt and connect again.

Desoldering wick works great for removing excess or old solder, but I think you'll be fine so long as you reflow the two on the left.
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Solder-Packs-Desoldering-Length/dp/B073TRWY19/
The solder was sticking to the tip, making it hard to use a smaller amount. I'll have to look up some better techniques on youtube. Thanks for the tips though!

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someotherguy

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The issue may be not enough heat from that butane-powered iron. Those larger solder pads can take some real heat to get the solder moving, and the old stuff can be a bear to melt. I could be wrong about that butane iron as I have little experience with them. I use a regular plug-in, temperature-controlled piece that is probably out of price range for someone that doesn't do much soldering.

Richard
 

Chevy66driver

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So...the wipers now change speeds properly after soldering, but won't go off without the jerry-rigged on/off switch the previous owner installed. Time to check the turn signal stalk next? Planning to head to the scrapyard tomorrow.

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