Wiper pulse board

[MIHELA]

I actually just got done getting parts to replace the wiper hardware in our 89 plow truck and had to source the newer motor and pulse board.

 

[90 Silverado]

Bought a new updated one from Auto Zone with a lifetime warranty, my old wiper motor would run for 3 minutes straight in the off position then park the wipers where it wanted ! Was 30 years old anyways...

Doug in P.R.

 

[Chevy66driver]

Alrighty then, guess I'll shell out the dough for a new motor first then!

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

 

[Erik the Awful]

The issue may be not enough heat from that butane-powered iron. Those larger solder pads can take some real heat to get the solder moving, and the old stuff can be a bear to melt. I could be wrong about that butane iron as I have little experience with them. I use a regular plug-in, temperature-controlled piece that is probably out of price range for someone that doesn't do much soldering.

Actually, with the butane irons you can overheat the tip and then it won't take solder. The solution is to sandpaper the tip.

Forgot to say, be sure and clean the solder off your iron before you store it. I usually use a razor blade or knife and scrape the solder off while it's still liquid, but you can also wipe it off on a damp sponge.

 

[kenh]

I've done a fair amount of soldering in the past. I even built a R/C set up building the transmitter, receiver and the servos. I've found it best to have a hotter iron so you get on and off the solder joint quicker. I found a 25 watt (electric) pencil iron to be a good balance. Although I have used a 100/150 watt gun when nothing else is available.

When soldering electronic components make sure the tip is well tinned. That is, it has a good coating of solder on it. Don't be afraid to add a drop of solder to the iron tip before resoldering a joint. The extra solder helps transfer heat to the joint quickly and it adds a little flux to help clean the joint. You will know when the joint is "done" when the solder turns shiny and smooth and mounds up nicely. It's common to pull a little solder and leave a booger when you remove the iron. No worries, it doesn't affect the joint. As for solder I prefer the the real skinny stuff. Somewhere in the .050" range. Kester is my favorite brand FWIW. If you can find some copper of brass and practice on it. (Hobby Lobby) Cut some 1/8" strips and practice soldering those together.

Ken

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Years ago we used sal-ammoniac blocks to clean the tip. Yes, a clean tip is critical to achieving a good solder joint. You can file/sand the tip, dip it in resin, and "tin" the tip with a small amount of solder. If you get too much you can flick it and throw the excess off (be careful). If it cools too fast or you don't get it hot enough you'll get a "cold solder joint" which will look dull and semi-porous. Plus it won't be a very good conductor.

 

[kenh]

If you get too much you can flick it and throw the excess off (be careful). .

That is what I do. Very rarely "clean" the tip. I have solder splashes all over my floor! Is it the correct thing to do. Probably not, but that is my way.

Ken

 

[SuperSpore]

what years switched over to the new style motor and board??

 

[someotherguy]

what years switched over to the new style motor and board??

1991.

Richard