which mild cam for 350 tbi

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kenh

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Spending money for a flat-tappet cam for a small block Chevy 350 in this era is bat-**** crazy.
There's thousands of usable Vortec cam/lifter/dogbone/spider/pushrod/cam retainer/timing chain sets in Treasure Yards all over the country.

I bet you can get everything you need for $50. If your block isn't machined for the spider bolts and the cam thrust plate, either drill a few holes yourself.

I thought of doing just that. Right now my issue is time (frickin work) and with cold weather coming on that will pretty much nix that idea for a little time. I'm laid off in the winter but I'll be damned if I'm freezing my ass off to pull parts in the cold! LOL For now I'm going to fix my current engine. Rear main leaking, and the heads are leaking water into a cylinder and to the outside. Engine runs like a top otherwise.

Thanks for the advice. Everybody keep talkin'. I haven't done any automotive engine work for a very long time so I'm playing a bit of catch up on tech.

Ken
 

Markmartin01

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I used the enginetech cam with lifters. Dirt cheap and provided quite a noticeable bump in torque and flat torque curve. I've read they are copies of the Elgin grind. Was cautious on the machining but it looked good and has worked great for a couple years now. The TBI gets confused occasionally and will bump the idle up and down but it's not bad. Well worth the cheap price. The lifters are questionable in the kit though. Think I have one that's not oiling completely now as its developed a cold tick on #6.
 

Erik the Awful

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I got my Enginetech cam and looked it over. It doesn't look like butt, so I'll run it.
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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I may have a deal on a block with a near new rotating assembly, flat top pistons and rods. No camshaft. It's been bored .030 over and was destined for a race car but did not have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump which was a requirement in that particular class. I have to look at it but it's priced at $50!!!!

So if I go that direction what would be a mild cam that will still work with the stock TBI? Or at least with minimal mods. I'm NOT looking for max HP, just a good running truck with maybe a bump in fuel economy.

Found an Edelbrock flat tappet cam at Advance Auto... $211 for the "kit".

Exact Fitfor your 1990 Chevrolet C1500
Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Chevy 305-350 TBI; Hyd.; Off-Idle-5500rpm; Adv. Dur. 244deg. Int/264deg. Exh; Valve Lift 0.398 Int/0.442 Exh; 50 State Street Legal; ; Non Roller Applications;Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Off-Idle to 5500rpm; Adv. Dur. at 0.050 Int/Exh 194/214 Deg; Lift at Valve Int/Exh 0.398/0.442 in.; Lobe Seps 112 Deg. Intake Center Line 107 Deg.;CARB E.O. D-215-19; 50 State Legal~Idle Vacuum at 1000 RPM - 16 inch~Non Roller

It would be cool to go to a roller cam but that is a big jump in price and I'm trying to do a budget build.

Anyway, any advice is much appreciated. It's only been 40 years since I've done stuff like this! LOL LOL

Ken

EDIT; I currently have the short direct replacement headers on the truck. Otherwise it's bone stock.

If you’re gonna buy anything save the money and go roller cam. Even if it takes longer to do the project.
 

RawbDidIt

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If you’re gonna buy anything save the money and go roller cam. Even if it takes longer to do the project.
My thoughts exactly. I know the school of thought, why put money into a $50 motor, but the value of the motor isn't anyways what you pay for it. If the rotating assembly and the block is in good shape, the only thing left is cam and valvetrain. Why buy the same solution twice if you can buy it once and be done with it?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

Trlrider

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LOL ~ Several of you knocking the $50 motor, too funny!
Maybe the seller is just wanting to get it off the floor and into someones hands that can use it.
A gift horse may just be that. The block and rotating assembly may be in excellent shape and someone has already done the machine work.
I picked up two SBC's for free a few years ago. Pulled them apart, one had a new crank, rods and pistons, block had been bored 30 over and the cam kit was new in the box.
So don't be so quick to boat anchor and what could be a real gift for someone on a budget.

As far a the flat tappet vs roller discussion - it is a matter of preference and when I go to the drag strip we still see plenty of old school mills beating the modern guys every weekend.

Suggestions are great, but some folks just cannot afford the added expense just to get a DD back on the road.

Just my .02 cents worth, and that is about all it is worth.
 

Schurkey

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My concern with a "$50 race motor" is that there's hidden damage somewhere. Cracked, poor machining, etc.

Nothing to do but to look closely and ask questions. He says it doesn't have a fuel pump (boss), so it has to be a 1-piece rear main block. Therefore, a good chance but not guaranteed to be roller-cam compatible already.

A used-but-usable roller cam, lifters, and all the hardware needed to install and run it could be dirt-cheap at the Treasure Yard. But that assumes the "race motor" turns out to be usable.
 

Postmech

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I am prone to give things away when I no longer need them. Even if they are new. I hate trying to sell parts or anything else. My Dad taught me to always take freebies even if you throw them away later.( 50 bucks for an engine classifies as a freebie) I am a Pullapart regular and have gotten many roller cam parts there with no issue. I am running lifters, dogbones, and retainers from there on my Chevy Hot Cam in my 1978 Z/28 383. Horse power and torque wise, you can't beat a roller cam versus flat tappet with same specs . Bonus, no break in period.
 
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