which mild cam for 350 tbi

[kenh]

I may have a deal on a block with a near new rotating assembly, flat top pistons and rods. No camshaft. It's been bored .030 over and was destined for a race car but did not have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump which was a requirement in that particular class. I have to look at it but it's priced at $50!!!!

So if I go that direction what would be a mild cam that will still work with the stock TBI? Or at least with minimal mods. I'm NOT looking for max HP, just a good running truck with maybe a bump in fuel economy.

Found an Edelbrock flat tappet cam at Advance Auto... $211 for the "kit".

Exact Fitfor your 1990 Chevrolet C1500
Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Chevy 305-350 TBI; Hyd.; Off-Idle-5500rpm; Adv. Dur. 244deg. Int/264deg. Exh; Valve Lift 0.398 Int/0.442 Exh; 50 State Street Legal; ; Non Roller Applications;Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Off-Idle to 5500rpm; Adv. Dur. at 0.050 Int/Exh 194/214 Deg; Lift at Valve Int/Exh 0.398/0.442 in.; Lobe Seps 112 Deg. Intake Center Line 107 Deg.;CARB E.O. D-215-19; 50 State Legal~Idle Vacuum at 1000 RPM - 16 inch~Non Roller

It would be cool to go to a roller cam but that is a big jump in price and I'm trying to do a budget build.

Anyway, any advice is much appreciated. It's only been 40 years since I've done stuff like this! LOL LOL

Ken

EDIT; I currently have the short direct replacement headers on the truck. Otherwise it's bone stock.

 

[RawbDidIt]

I was planning on putting one of these in my new engine as well, looked at some dyno results looked like a really flat torque curve which is what I wanted. It's a hydraulic roller setup though, so I guess it depends on what you define as mild mods.

Comp cams 08-500-8

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[PlayingWithTBI]

Personally I like Lunati better than others. If you need a cam with a CARB EO #, just print one from another manufacturer, LOL. Currently I'm running this with 1.6 full roller rockers (.466/.484 lift), guide plates and hardened push rods (with aluminum Heads). Smooth idle and good off the line up to ~5200 RPM. You can tell it ain't stock with headers and a Borla Pro XS muffler though, ha ha.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10120700lk

If you want a little more, go with the 10120701

 

[Erik the Awful]

I also like Lunati cams, but $50 engine? Why would you consider buying a $200 cam for it? That's putting a diamond in a goat's butt. RockAuto has four camshafts under $66, three Enginetechs and a Melling. All say "may not be computer compatible", which doesn't mean it's not compatible. I'm planning on the cheapest of the bunch, the Enginetech ES179R, for my low-dough engine build - which will likely end up with a 625 cfm Carter AFB.
Intake/Exhaust Duration at .050 inch Lift: 223
Intake/Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio .447
LSA: 114
$48.79 - you'd almost double your engine cost!

 

[98 Nitro]

To answer your question the lunati cam linked to would be your best bet ....but this deal sounds to good to be true to me.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-201256-262/make/chevrolet

 

[kenh]

I was planning on putting one of these in my new engine as well, looked at some dyno results looked like a really flat torque curve which is what I wanted. It's a hydraulic roller setup though, so I guess it depends on what you define as mild mods.

Comp cams 08-500-8

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I'm not after raw power, just an improvement over the stock cam. I don't really want to reflash my chip but do understand that may be a real good thing to do and my be the single best thing to do?????

I even considered a stock roller cam from a newer vortec. BUT after checking on what it would cost me to do that is going to push my budget way beyond what I have available. That cost would be anywhere from $500t o $700! The cost comes from having to buy all the parts to make the engine roller cam compatible.

So it will get a flat tappet cam. Just need to find some oil that will support that style cam for 100,000 miles.

Ken

 

[RawbDidIt]

I'm not after raw power, just an improvement over the stock cam. I don't really want to reflash my chip but do understand that may be a real good thing to do and my be the single best thing to do?????

I even considered a stock roller cam from a newer vortec. BUT after checking on what it would cost me to do that is going to push my budget way beyond what I have available. That cost would be anywhere from $500t o $700! The cost comes from having to buy all the parts to make the engine roller cam compatible.

So it will get a flat tappet cam. Just need to find some oil that will support that style cam for 100,000 miles.

Ken

You need new lifters anyway. Use break in oil, and follow provided instructions for initial break in. Change oil and filter, drive 500 miles with break in oil again, change oil and filter. Drive for 2 oil changes on conventional oil. Switch to synthetic and enjoy.

https://help.summitracing.com/app/a...break-in-my flat-tappet-camshaft-and-lifters?


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[Hipster]

I also like Lunati cams, but $50 engine? Why would you consider buying a $200 cam for it? That's putting a diamond in a goat's butt. RockAuto has four camshafts under $66, three Enginetechs and a Melling. All say "may not be computer compatible", which doesn't mean it's not compatible. I'm planning on the cheapest of the bunch, the Enginetech ES179R, for my low-dough engine build - which will likely end up with a 625 cfm Carter AFB.
Intake/Exhaust Duration at .050 inch Lift: 223
Intake/Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio .447
LSA: 114
$48.79 - you'd almost double your engine cost!

I bought an Engintech cam through RA. Made in China. I didn't like the look of the cam grinding so it went back.

I'd buy a Summit or Jeg's branded cam first. Used a bunch of those as well as Elgin and Crane.

Lunati and Crane cams are top notch.

Quite a few milder Elgin and Howards profiles are listed on Competition Products website.

If a cam wipes out and trashes your engine the best you'll do is to get them to warranty the cam kit. The rest is on you so not worth risking it with bottom barrel stuff.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not after raw power, just an improvement over the stock cam...
...I even considered a stock roller cam from a newer vortec. BUT after checking on what it would cost me to do that is going to push my budget way beyond what I have available. That cost would be anywhere from $500t o $700! The cost comes from having to buy all the parts to make the engine roller cam compatible.

So it will get a flat tappet cam. Just need to find some oil that will support that style cam for 100,000 miles.

Ken

Spending money for a flat-tappet cam for a small block Chevy 350 in this era is bat-**** crazy.
There's thousands of usable Vortec cam/lifter/dogbone/spider/pushrod/cam retainer/timing chain sets in Treasure Yards all over the country.

I bet you can get everything you need for $50. If your block isn't machined for the spider bolts and the cam thrust plate, either drill a few holes yourself, or you could probably find a complete Vortec short-block for a couple hundred or less. You'd have to drill for the cooling system bypass, and add a couple of timing cover bolt holes, then use the TBI water pump, timing cover, and damper.

I did.

Take the lifters apart ONE AT A TIME for cleaning and inspection.

I did.

My 5.7 TBI runs just fine with a stock PROM and Vortec short-block. (Aftermarket aluminum heads and ZZ4 intake with TBI adapter plate.) Might be there's more power with a custom tune, but as is it runs good.