When you reach a fork in the road, take it.

[0xDEADBEEF]

I'm old. I drive it all the time like that. It's got plenty of power whenever you want it.

 

[Hipster]

LS's do good at the track, launching off a trans brake or loading up a 4.5k converter. You gotta get them to the point where they're producing good torque. On the street it's usually the bottom end torque that makes them fun to drive whether it be 383 pushing 450 ft lbs or a bb pushing 550 ft lbs. Op didn't budget for a converter in any scenario and didn't budget tuning(I think) on a 383 build. No matter what path tuning is involved. No secret you need to keep an ls in the powerband like a 2 stroke. I let a family member borrow my trailer to move a car with his 6.0 LTZ, the whole ride home on the highway, I don't think it ever stopped hunting gears but towing is not the issue here.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

LS's do good at the track, launching off a trans brake or loading up a 4.5k converter. You gotta get them to the point where they're producing good torque. On the street it's usually the bottom end torque that makes them fun to drive whether it be 383 pushing 450 ft lbs or a bb pushing 550 ft lbs. Op didn't budget for a converter in any scenario and didn't budget tuning(I think) on a 383 build. No matter what path tuning is involved. No secret you need to keep an ls in the powerband like a 2 stroke. I let a family member borrow my trailer to move a car with his 6.0 LTZ, the whole ride home on the highway, I don't think it ever stopped hunting gears but towing is not the issue here.

I agree! To be happy driving a LS for me would require it to have a good size converter, deep gears and slamming my hand in the door before I got behind the wheel and driving it like I hated it, throwing fuel mileage out the window.

I pulled a fullsize G20 van behind my first generation Titan with the 5.6L, moved the shifter to 4th, set the cruise at 70 mph and it held speed happily at 2,500 rpm and did not downshift a single time. That truck made very close to 400 ft/lbs of torque at the tires at 2,900 rpm. IIRC it was 388 tq @ 2,9xx rpm on a Mustang dyno. It made ~296 hp at 4,9xx too. Completely different driving experience than a LS. Loads of low-midrange torque from those VKs. Comparitively a 5.3L feels like a slug, not that I hate the engine, I just will not own one. If I had the time to figure out the oil pan and electronics, I would put a VK56DE and matching 5 spd automatic in a GMT400 RCSB.

Edit, I found the pulls. The graph is before and after an exhaust change. Truck was 0.3 quicker down the 1/4 mile with the exhaust change despite losing a little midrange torque.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

What does all that torque do, roast tires even from a 25 mph roll. 5,350 lbs crew cab on 305/50 R20s. The 383 in the van makes 40 ft/lbs more torque than the 5.6L did at a similar RPM.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Hipster]

I am not looking to hit 120mph ever. I would like something that is going to be a thrill from 0-60, spin tires throw you back in the seat some.

^^This is bottom end torque, it is also where an ls falls short. 0-60 build as much bottom end torque as you can.

 

[Sle-z_90]

^^This is bottom end torque, it is also where an ls falls short. 0-60 build as much bottom end torque as you can.

Thank you for circling back. So you’d suggest the 383 or bbc? Or if you were to rank them for my goals, it would be bbc, 383, then 6.0. The draw for the 6.0 in my mind is that I could build (and spend) incrementally. If I buy a low mileage lq4 or lq9, I could basically stick it in as is. If that’s not satisfactory, I could add a cam. If that’s not satisfactory I could add intake, injectors, even turbo is a possibility eventually. I could spend 2-2.5k now and the rest over time. With a bbc and especially a 383, I would have to drop most of it just to get up and running.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Thank you for circling back. So you’d suggest the 383 or bbc? Or if you were to rank them for my goals, it would be bbc, 383, then 6.0. The draw for the 6.0 in my mind is that I could build (and spend) incrementally. If I buy a low mileage lq4 or lq9, I could basically stick it in as is. If that’s not satisfactory, I could add a cam. If that’s not satisfactory I could add intake, injectors, even turbo is a possibility eventually. I could spend 2-2.5k now and the rest over time. With a bbc and especially a 383, I would have to drop most of it just to get up and running.

You will spend as much buying a 150K mile 6.0L and dropping it in as you will buying a new 383. The 383 is as simple as it gets. You will need to do something for the fuel system/tuning either way. 700r4 barely holds the stock power and often does not. Once you make a little power a stock 8.5 10-bolt is on borrowed time and you need to start looking at better brakes.

Personally I would buy a cheap C4 Vette if you want to have fun. Probably the most under rated buy out there for a car that is surprisingly quick even today.

 

[Sle-z_90]

You will spend as much buying a 150K mile 6.0L and dropping it in as you will buying a new 383. The 383 is as simple as it gets. You will need to do something for the fuel system/tuning either way. 700r4 barely holds the stock power and often does not. Once you make a little power a stock 8.5 10-bolt is on borrowed time and you need to start looking at better brakes.

Personally I would buy a cheap C4 Vette if you want to have fun. Probably the most under rated buy out there for a car that is surprisingly quick even today.

Yeah I didn’t want to factor in costs resulting from the added power because more power is the goal of all three paths. I appreciate you sharing your experiential knowledge especially since I have none. I am fairly confident I can find a low mile 6.0 for 1,500. Then around another 1000 to get it pushing the truck. Of course that’s ignoring the time bomb 700r4 and rear end. However, I don’t think it would be possible to build a 383 for less than 3500 and that’s using a flat tappet cam and sourcing used parts for the top end.

 

[Sle-z_90]

I could probably build a 355 assuming my bottom end is good for around 2,500 but that’s also flat tappet cam and used top end.

 

[Komet]

Flat tappets are a no go. Budget for a roller conversion or budget for two engine builds. You will likely be able to get a 5.3 for $1500, the market for low mileage 6.0s is pretty hot for obvious reasons.

 

[Hipster]

I could probably build a 355 assuming my bottom end is good for around 2,500 but that’s also flat tappet cam and used top end.

A built 350 or 383 is direct bolt in with all you already have, It's hard to build on a shoe string budget. There will always be incidentals, stuff that breaks coming apart, unforeseen parts or machining cost etc. I always tell people after you figure out what it costs , add 30% and you'll be close. Worst thing you can do is start underfunded. A blown-grenaded trans can break crank thrust bearings etc so you're headed in a direction that can can lead to breaking one thing after another until you're rebuilding the engine, either again or the drop in.