Decided to LS swap

[open_road_toad]

I wouldn't change out anything, except the head bolts, and I'm about like Sean on the subject.

As far as rod and mains, Ive always had good luck with Clevite, but if you're hyped about going GM, they wouldn't be a bad option. One thing I haven't seen you mention is cam bearings. Durabond makes some good ones for LS engines. I would not have the engine down this far, and not replace the cam bearings, factory are no good.

Melling makes some nice oil pumps for these. They have some high volume/high pressure options, etc. I tend to go with high volume over high pressure myself, but not even trying to get into that debate. Make sure you have the correct O-ring for the pickup.

Probably good with whatever gaskets, Fel-Pro, GM. MLS on the heads.


I don't even think the LS style cracked cap rods can be resized, or I'm just dumb to the process. You cant remove material on the faces to re-bore/hone the center. Either way the Gen 3 rods were one of the weaker spots, not sure Id dump much time or money into them. Run as is, or upgrade.

Machine shop is doing new cam bearings. I did not ask what brand. They do use clevite so I’ll check. He did say that he can check out the rods and if they’re good he will clean them up and install new bearings along with the pistons and rings.

I’ve been looking into the oil pump thing and I’ve read that if you’re just doing a rebuild you don’t need/benefit from a high volume or high pressure pump. If anything I will use high volume from melling.

I’m using a Holley oil pan that comes with an oil pick up tube. It’s the 2 bolt flange which is better than the single bolt GM design. I’ll be sure to use the proper O ring.
Thanks!

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

The rod bolts are torque to angle, not to yield. I think I read somewhere that they should only be torqued 3 times, but I don't think anyone follows that. You could just buy new OEM bolts though. My last build I used Sloppy Mechanics method and torqued them to 55 ft-lbs. I had 2 bolts that would just not tighten so I bought new ones for $5 or whatever they were off Summit. I remember they were pretty cheap and branded Brian Tooley Racing.

 

[open_road_toad]

The rod bolts are torque to angle, not to yield. I think I read somewhere that they should only be torqued 3 times, but I don't think anyone follows that. You could just buy new OEM bolts though. My last build I used Sloppy Mechanics method and torqued them to 55 ft-lbs. I had 2 bolts that would just not tighten so I bought new ones for $5 or whatever they were off Summit. I remember they were pretty cheap and branded Brian Tooley Racing.

ARP rod bolts from Summit are $97. I’m going that route.

 

[open_road_toad]

$299 for a set of rod bolts? I feel like I have seen ARP sets for half that.

ARP rod bolts from Summit are $97. I’ll be getting those.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Melling makes some nice oil pumps for these. They have some high volume/high pressure options, etc. I tend to go with high volume over high pressure myself, but not even trying to get into that debate. Make sure you have the correct O-ring for the pickup.

Be careful about oil pumps on LS motors. You can put together a combination that pushes over 100 psi of oil pressure. There's a pretty good Engine Masters episode just about LS oil pumps.

 

[open_road_toad]

Be careful about oil pumps on LS motors. You can put together a combination that pushes over 100 psi of oil pressure. There's a pretty good Engine Masters episode just about LS oil pumps.

Yep. I read that. I see no reason to go with anything other than stock for my build.