Decided to LS swap

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open_road_toad

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Well guys I’m not having much luck with a 4L80 rebuildable core. I had 3 lined up from 3 different yards. First guy called and said when they pulled it the discovered the bell housing cracked. The other 2 places that said they had them when I called (I paid a deposit on each one) called me back to say that it wasn’t there anymore. I was refunded my deposits but now I’m still looking for a core. I did find a yard that has one with 300k miles for $1200 but I’d rather pay less since I’m gonna rebuild it anyways. I’ll keep looking.
 

open_road_toad

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Spent Christmas Day tearing the engine down. I’ll drop it off to the machine shop next week.
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BeXtreme

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I'm rebuilding a 6.2 that I got to replace the LC9 5.3 that is in my 2011 Suburban. It was fairly clean and decent looking, but I decided to have it all gone through anyways. I pulled it down and had the heads cleaned and checked. It needed all new intake guides and I had them clean the valves and do a valve job at the same time they installed and checked the new guide seals and PAC valve spring kit that came with my new cam. That all ran me ~$400 including all the parts. Then I dropped the block, pistons, and crank off at the machine shop and had them clean and inspect everything including measuring piston to wall clearance and inspecting the bores. They did the cleaning, inspection, polished the crank, quick hone of the cylinders since the bores were still in spec, and installed new durabond cam bearings for ~$200.
 

open_road_toad

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Dropped everything off at the machine shop today after work. They’re gonna hot tank and shot peen the block and paint it for me. I’m going with GM Blue. Guy is also gonna Brad blast all the aluminum parts (heads, covers, etc) and it’s gonna look like new. I’m beyond excited to see this done.
 

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KansasOBS

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Guy is also gonna Brad blast all the aluminum parts (heads, covers, etc)
Here I am again, with nonsense after the fact. See the heads there already at the shop. But you might consider ditching those 317's for some 706's. Should work good with the BTR cam for waking things up, and you're going to have to tune with the cam swap anyhow. Could probably find a set for pretty cheap on FB marketplace or salvage, etc. If you plan for boost, the 317's would work ok in the long run, but they are the equivalent of a GM smog era head as far as compression. 799's would work better than 317's too, without the chamber shrouding benefiting from some cleanup, but they're usually also more expensive.

Video if'n ya wanna do some learnin. I'm kinda too "oooo squirrel" to sit through all of Holdener's videos, but the info isnt wrong. Truck Norris, and 706's are even mentioned. Id throw the same combo in my 6.0 if I had it that far apart, but then again if I had it that far apart, and at a machine shop. It would probably have a 403 stroker kit in its future.
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Erik the Awful

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I have no experience with LS motors other than plugging numbers into a spreadsheet, but the specs on a 706 head are underwhelming. The one thing it has going for it is the small 61cc combustion chamber. The 317s have larger valves and ports, but a large 71cc combustion chamber. I'd stick with the 317s but upgrade the pistons to get the compression ratio up.

Or, even better, you can get L92 copycat heads for $375 a piece.
 
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