4L60E Information Thread

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Wilecoyote

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What do you mean by "bang/shook"? Describe the symptom(s) in detail. And are you asking whether or not the same symptom happens in neutral? I think you're making a statement there but see a question mark so want to clarify.
When I start the cold engine it starts in less a second and sometimes there is loud/bang sound that shooks the truck. It doesn't do it when the engine is hot. I can press the brake , shift in neutral and start the cold engine and it never happens.
 
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NickTransmissions

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When I start the cold engine it starts in less a second and sometimes there is loud/bang sound that shooks the truck. It doesn't do it when the engine is hot. I can press the brake , shift in neutral and start the cold engine and it never happens.
Doesnt sound like a transmission problem as recurring loud bangs at engine start up typically arent sourced to the transmission.

You can always drop the pan to inspect your parking pawl to see if it's causing these "bangs" but its doubtful, unless im not understanding the symptom correctly.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Great info Nick.
If you don't mind I have 2 questions.
I recently had my trans rebuilt by a local shop. There about to do a 1 yr check up.
Over the previous months I noticed fluid dripping every so often out the slip yoke. Only when I'm parked uphill btw....
I kept an eye on it until 2 days ago. I notice fluid dripping out the vent rubber hose. Same as the yoke was...
Today I checked the fluid level and it was over fill.. big time. The fluid was pass the part of the curve end of the dip stick. Close to where it says "check fluid in park bla bla bla"
No biggie I think. Accept I siphoned out about a court give er take.
My question is this can trans fluid appear higher then it actually is? Kind of like cold check verses hot. Except I'm referring to hot already and checking hot.
Also is my trans ruined for being over full this long?
I ask this because I could of sworn I checked this back when my yoke was dripping but saw fluid at the hash mark. Now I'm worried there's internal damage to the trans for being over full for almost 8 months now....
I just don't wanna start the truck in the morning and the pump is starved of fluid.
 

NickTransmissions

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Great info Nick.
If you don't mind I have 2 questions.
I recently had my trans rebuilt by a local shop. There about to do a 1 yr check up.
Over the previous months I noticed fluid dripping every so often out the slip yoke. Only when I'm parked uphill btw....
I kept an eye on it until 2 days ago. I notice fluid dripping out the vent rubber hose. Same as the yoke was...
Today I checked the fluid level and it was over fill.. big time. The fluid was pass the part of the curve end of the dip stick. Close to where it says "check fluid in park bla bla bla"
No biggie I think. Accept I siphoned out about a court give er take.
My question is this can trans fluid appear higher then it actually is? Kind of like cold check verses hot. Except I'm referring to hot already and checking hot.
Also is my trans ruined for being over full this long?
I ask this because I could of sworn I checked this back when my yoke was dripping but saw fluid at the hash mark. Now I'm worried there's internal damage to the trans for being over full for almost 8 months now....
I just don't wanna start the truck in the morning and the pump is starved of fluid.
Thanks, @SUBURBAN5 - Overfilling generally will cause some pump cavitation if not caught right away or driven for a long period of time after too much fluid has been added. Trans fluid can appear a bit higher if on a grade so it's important to check when the vehicle is level. If the trans is behaving normally, shifting and not making any odd noises or producing any odd vibrations I'd think its prob fine but if you want to be sure, you can always stick a pressure gauge in the 7/16" pressure port tap behind the bell housing on the driver side of the unit and take readings...Pressures should be between 50-80 PSI in P., N, D4, D3 90-120 PSI in R and 150-180 PSI in manual 2 and 1 at idle.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Thanks, @SUBURBAN5 - Overfilling generally will cause some pump cavitation if not caught right away or driven for a long period of time after too much fluid has been added. Trans fluid can appear a bit higher if on a grade so it's important to check when the vehicle is level. If the trans is behaving normally, shifting and not making any odd noises or producing any odd vibrations I'd think its prob fine but if you want to be sure, you can always stick a pressure gauge in the 7/16" pressure port tap behind the bell housing on the driver side of the unit and take readings...Pressures should be between 50-80 PSI in P., N, D4, D3 90-120 PSI in R and 150-180 PSI in manual 2 and 1 at idle.
Awesome thanks for the info. Today i checked the fluid level. It's at the recommended level for sure. The shifts today and drive felt the same. So hopefully, all is good. Otherwise like I said , soon I'll be dropping it off for a 1yr service.
Thanks again
 

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Hi All,

Since so many of us own at least one GMT400 or similar truck/SUV equipped with a 4L60E, I figured I'd start an all-encompassing transmission thread with videos, links and other information as it relates to the 4L60/65/70/75E transmissions. I'll get it going with videos covering tear down and inspection, step by step rebuild procedures as well as high performance and go from there.

Hoping this can be an easy 'one-stop shop' for exchanging information, guidance and advice as it relates to 4L60E transmissions.

I'll update this first post with more over time and bump the thread when new stuff gets incorporated.

Feel free to post questions, comments, etc...

Note - Feel free to send me a PM w/any questions but please provide your first name (unless it’s in your user name) so that I know who I'm talking to - TIA.

4L60E Production Run: 1992-2013

4L60E Teardown and Inspection

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4L60E Rebuild Series (Stock level build)
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4L60E Rebuild Series (High Performance)
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4L60E Valve Body Tips and Tricks
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Vintages and Interchange Information
The following information applies to all 4L60E-equipped models and sub-models unless otherwise noted.

VintageComponentsInterchange InformationAdditional Context
1992-1994
  • Valve Body
  • Pump Assembly
  • Separator Plate
  • Wiring harness
  • 3-2 Solenoid
1992-1994 units will interchange as an assembly into any vehicles manufactured during these years

1995 and 1996-1997: Components at left will have to be swapped for compatible components for those years/vintages if needing to convert to a 95 or 96-97 application
  • Separator plates not provisioned for PWM TCC apply strategies
  • 3-2 Solenoid Resistance: 9-11 ohms
  • Replacement part: 96+ PWM solenoid

Valve body castings have provision for PWM solenoid however no PWM solenoid is installed for 1992-1994
1995
  • Valve Body
  • Pump Assembly
  • Separator Plate
  • Wiring harness
  • 3-2 Solenoid
Not interchangeable with any other year without swapping the following parts w/year-applicable ones:
  • Pump
  • Valve body
  • Separator Plate
  • Wiring Harness
  • PWM Solenoid
*** 1992-1995 Cases will not swap to 1996+ vehicles as they lack provisions for mounting the MLPS - see next row for details
Pulse Width Modulation was introduced as a new TCC apply strategy for all 4L60E transmissions starting in 1995. In 1996, key changes to the PWM were made and further changes were made in 2001+ and in both cases, updates were made to the valve body, separator plate and separator plate gaskets.
1996-1997
  • Case
  • Valve Body
  • Separator Plate
  • Wiring Harness
  • 3-2 Solenoid
  • Manual lever position sensor
Will not interchange with any prior years without swapping components listed at left with counterparts that are compatible with the target vintage (i.e. 92-94 or 95)

May swap in place of a two-piece case so long as the engine is a 1st or 2nd generation small block or big block - WILL NOT swap in behind a Generation 3 small block (LS1, 5.3, 6.0, etc)
In 1996, GM introduced the manual lever position sensor and changed the impedance of the 3-2 control solenoid to 18-21 ohms, which mirrors that of shift solenoids A and B

PWM Solenoid remained unchanged (9-11 ohms)

Threaded ports were added on either side of the selector to accommodate the manual lever position sensor - these threaded ports ARE NOT found on 1992-1995 cases

** It’s recommended to mechanically convert the PWM regulated apply circuit in the valve body to an ‘on-off’ circuit - this is accomplished by blocking the inboard valve from moving **

DTC P1870 will store if/when this valve wears sufficiently and late, harsh 1-2 shifts will often be observed
1993-2000Separator plate gasketsInterchangeable between all years at left

Identified by the lack of striping on both gaskets
PWM-specific ports and orifices on the separator plate changed starting in 2001 to coincide with some other minor PWM-related hardware changes (see below for details)
1996-2003Manual Lever Position Sensor (first design)Will interchange between all years at leftFirst design uses two connectors to communicate range position - one for Park and one for Neutral.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the dielectric grease so that the MLPS can be removed from the pig-tail connectors w/out damaging the connectors or sensor

If this sensors fails, vehicle will not crank or start - try shifting into Neutral if in Park - it may start if only the ‘Park’ channel has failed
2004-L2008Manual Lever Position Sensor (second design)Will interchange between all years at left but WILL NOT interchange with vehicles manufactured for model years 1992-2003Second design uses one electrical connector instead of two, integrating Park and Neutral into one channel for data comms w/the PCM
2001-2006Separator plate gasketsInterchangeable between all years at left

Identified by white striping on both gaskets
GM updated the separator plate with new ports/orifice designs starting in 2001 - this coincided with a redesigned valve train in the TCC regulator valve (valve body)
1998-2006
  • Case
  • Bell Housing
  • Torque Converter
  • Input Shaft
Interchangeable across all years with the caveat that F-body or Corvette specific parts will need to be installed on transmissions that did not already have them if installing into an F Body (Camaro or Firebird) or a Corvette300mm pump stator and redesigned input shaft introduced in 1998 to support migration to LS/Gen 3 small block in Corvettes and F-bodies

All other 4L60E equipped vehicles followed suit in late 2000
2006-2008
  • Pump Assy
  • Input Shaft
  • Input Speed sensor
  • Valve Body
  • Separator plate
  • Separator plate gaskets
  • Wiring Harness
WILL NOT retro or prospectively install into any other model year vehicles

First years of separator plates w/bonded gaskets

Some units will have a traditional separator plate where gaskets can be replaced separately

Use orange-striped separator plate gaskets
GM introduced the turbine shaft speed sensor in mid-2006 which resulted in design changes to the input shaft, pump stator and pump cover.

** Failure to install a pump with a matching input shaft or pump not compatible with a turbine speed sensor into a 4L60E-equipped vehicle that originally came w/one will result in no upshift from first gear

CAUTION! - A limited amount of input shaft/drum assemblies were manufactured as provisioned for the reluctor gear however no gear was cast into these shafts and mated to pumps with stators provisioned for the input shaft reluctor gear - DO NOT install these into transmissions that originally did not come w/turbine speed sensors as the feed holes between the stator and input shaft will be mis-aligned (mostly applies to L2006)
L2008+
  • Valve body
  • Separator plate
  • Pressure Switch Manifold Assembly
  • Internal Mode Switch
  • Wiring Harness
  • Manual Lever Position Sensor
Will interchange with any subsequent year however not backwards-compatible with 2008-1992

*** 2008 4L60/65/70E transmissions not updated to take the internal mode switch (e.g. still have the older pressure switch manifold assembly and external MLPS installed) are compatible with any year vehicle L2006-2008 regardless if that vehicle’s original transmission came with a turbine speed sensor
In 2009, GM introduced the Internal Mode Switch to take the place of the pressure switch manifold assembly and manual lever position sensor.

The IMS is installed onto the selector shaft between the case wall and rooster comb - pan must be removed to access and R/R the IMS.

If IMS fails, vehicle will not crank or start


A Few Common Problems, Causes and Solutions (I will add to this list as I go)

Problem/SymptomCauseFixNotes
No movement in any range (forward or reverse)Pump failure

Input shaft splines stripped

Converter failure

Low roller and sun shell failure

Burnt forwards+coast clutch+low reverse/reverse input
Replace whichever parts at left failedCheck dipstick level off then start engine - if dipstick level is way above full w/engine running pump has failed

If not, put pressure gauge on trans - if pressure is normal, tear down and inspect transmission to PID cause.
No Reverse, 2nd or 4th gearSun shell failure

Rear gear train failure
Replace sun shell and/or gear train on overhaul

Always use hardened / heat treated sun shell at minimum (Sonnax Smart Shell recommended if budget allows for it)
Gear train failure can first present as vehicle ‘locking up’ in reverse or first gear as pieces of gear teeth are preventing mesh of gear components

Momentary neutral conditions at highway speeds also indicate progressive gear train failure
No Reverse; all forward gears workLip seals on reverse input piston and/or low reverse piston wornReplace lip seals on overhaulCommon when trans overheats multiple times or not driven for long periods of time (also affects other seal surfaces)
No forward movement in Drive but forward movement in Manual 2 and 1; reverse worksInput sprag failed

Input sprag installed backwards (overhaul only)
Replace input sprag gear assembly

Correct sprag orientation
Sprag clutch, inner and outer race must all be replaced in the event of sprag failure

Use 400 grit sandpaper on inner dia of replacement outer race to prep surface before installing new sprag clutch
No upshift from 1st gear at all (1992-E2006)Failed output speed sensor or speed sensor harness short-to-groundConfirm it’s plugged in

Replace speed sensor

Fix/replace ext harness
Check harness and related wiring for shorts or damaged wires and verify pigtail is receiving voltage
No upshift from 1st gear at all (L2006)Failed input speed sensor,
output speed sensor
or internal harness short-to-ground or external short to ground
Confirm it’s plugged in

Replace speed sensor

Fix/replace harness
Transmission must be removed from vehicle, pump extracted to replace input speed sensor (aka Turbine speed sensor)
No upshift from 1st gear - eventually shifts to third2nd gear Servo piston/sealing rings

Worn/burnt 2-4 band
Replace rings or Servo assembly w/093 servoAir check 2nd gear apply to confirm / deny the servo is the problem
No forward movement in any range setting - reverse worksFailed low roller clutchReplace roller clutch assemblyCheck center support for cam or lug damage - replace if necessary
Tie Up at 1-2 shift#1 Check ball stuck in plateRepair plate using Fitzall repair sleeve and install torlon check ballCommon for all years, sub-models
Late Harsh 1-2 shift AND P1870TCC reg valve
Torque Converter
Worn rear pump stator bushing
Fix the causes listed at right starting w/TCC reg valve - use Fitzall valve ($20) for 96-2000 vehiclesIf fixing the TCC reg valve w/ a Fitzall valve or Sonnax oversized valve fails to resolve P1870, cause is either TC or pump stator bushings
Late Harsh 1-2 shift BUT NO P1870 DTC stored1-2 accumulator springs brokenReplace broken springs, piston and sealTransgo springs are known to break - I see many 4L60Es come in w/broken springs from Transgo shift kits
No forward movement in Drive but forward movement in Manual 2 and 1Input spragReplace input sprag gear assemblySprag clutch, inner and outer race must all be replaced in the event of sprag failure

Use 400 grit sandpaper on inner dia of replacement outer race to prep surface before installing new sprag clutch
Slipping / neutral during 2-3 shift3-4 pack wiped and burnt
Set clearance to .030-.050

Delete load release springs
Air check forward drum when assembled to confirm/deny 3-4 apply leakage at shaft/drum junction

Replace shaft/drum assy if so and test replacement

See my video for procedure
Third gear start (happens after trans has previously worked properly)Trans in limp modeDiagnose and fix causes which can be
  • Internal Harness
  • Ext Harness
  • Solenoids
  • Pressure Switch Man / IMS
Limp mode - third and reverse only (no other gears accessible)
Third gear starts after rebuildInput drum stator base O-ring (Green) left out or cutGreen o-ring segregates forward and 3-4 apply circuitsInstall new o-ring from a paper/rubber kit
No upshift to fourth gear (previously worked; all other gears available)4th apply piston sealing ring

Worn 2-4 band

3-4 shift valve stuck
Check 2-4 band apply to validate function

Check 3-4 shift valve
Tear down trans - replace band upon overhaul
No upshift to fourth gear after rebuild4-3 relay valve installed backwardsPut valve in the right wayApplies to the 700R4 as well


Parts Selection - Updating (Stock to mild builds)

PartLocationRationale
Accumulator pistonsValve body/Case/1-2 Acc HsngAlways replace old acc pistons with new as they wear at the pin bore and cause leaks in their respective circuits
Torlon Check ballsCase / Valve BodyUse torlon check balls and a larger 5/16” check ball at the 1-2 location to mitigate wear and risk the check ball gets stuck in the plate
Sonnax 4L60E-LB1Pump (Boost valve)Preexisting boost valves are worn; Sonnax boost valve and spring kit provides 10% increase in linear line pressure
Corvette Servo (093)ServoHas 13% more apply surface than ‘553’ servos installed in most v8 non-vette/non-f-body/non-premium sub model truck/SUV applications
97+ Bonded steel / rubber pistons + fwd return spring assyForward DrumRetro these and the corresponding late model forward return spring assembly to all 700R4 and 92-96 4L60Es for more longevity
Wide 2-4 band (Alto)Case - Rev Input DrumFactory-width bands cover appx 80% of drum surface which leads to more rapid warping; wide band covers 97% of surface, leading to better lifespan
4L65E or equivalent 3-4 clutch pack+apply/backing plateForward DrumProvides 7 frictions and steels in the 3-4 clutch pack; Alto, Borg Warner and Raybestos also make equivalent kits
Pump kitPumpComes with new rotor/slide/vanes, rings, small parts
Bushing KitvariousR/R all bushings in the unit
Sun ShellCaseObtain a hardened and heat treated version
Forward Sprag / Low Roller ClutchInput Sprag Assy / Center SupportReplace with new Borg Warner counterparts
Electrical componentsValve body-Pan areaAlways replace all electrical components (Sensors, solenoids, PSM Assey, mode switch, etc)



Parts Selection - High Performance Builds (more rows to be added later)

PartLocationRationaleAddl Info
Sonnax Pinless Acc PistonsCase / VB / 1-2 Acc HsgPinless accumulator piston kits eliminate the pins used w/stock pistons, eliminating a source of wear and leakageCan be purchased individually or as part of the 4L60E Sure Cure kit
Sonnax or Superior Tech Billet Servo kits (2nd and 4th gear)Servo - CasePair with a HP wide band to maximize clamping force for high HP/Torque applicationsCan be bought individually for 2nd and 4th gear based on need/preferences
Central Valve Bodies AFL valveValve bodyAFL valves can get worn - CVBs drop in replacement restores valve-bore sealing integrity to like newWorn AFL valve will result in AFL pressure loss to solenoids and eventually shorten clutch/band life
Fitzall TCC Regulator ValveValve BodyConverts PWM to On-Off and seals up valve-boreWorn TCC valve will wear converter clutch and trigger P1870 to set/store

*** If your vehicle is equipped w/active cylinder mgmt and/or VVT, you must leave TCC PWM active
Transgo Unbreakable Pump RingsPump BodyDuctile Iron pump rings eliminate a common point of pump failure in high RPM applicationsComes w/updated priming spring for better slide stability at higher RPMs - works in 700R4s and 4L60/65/70/75Es
Sonnax 4L60E-LBPump CoverFactory valve are worn; Sonnax valve provides 10% line pressure increase over stock diameter valveTransgo makes an equivalent but does not have an o-ringed sleeve
Slug or tightly bound coil spring (extra boost valve pump spring works)Valve bodyUse a slug to block movement of 3-2 downshift valve for crispr 3-2 down shifts - delete 3-2 downshift spring and set asideUse 3-2 downshift valve spring inside AFL valve spring to increase AFL pressure delivered to solenoids
Fender washers1-2 accumulator housingShim 1-2 accumulator for crisper/firmer shifts when running a high stall converterDimensions to follow
Sonnax Sure Cure KitVariousHas various performance parts (pinless accumulators, boost valve, coated bushings, etc)Recommended for high performance when paired with other parts/mods
Sonnax Drum Reinforcement Sleeve kitForward DrumStrengthens forward drum at base of input shaft female splines - comes w/Sonnax billet coast clutch pistonUse when power levels are north of 400 but less than 550 or so
4L65/70 Input DrumForward Drum4L65/70Es have an induction-hardened input shaftUse when power levels are north of 400 but less than 600 or so - Sonnax reinforcement sleeve kit should also be added for extra durability
Sonnax Smart Tech DrumForward DrumReplaces factory drum assembly; heavy duty input shaft and reinforced stator locationUse when power levels are north of 550 and/or full race (frequent 5000+ RPM exposure)
Sonnax Billet 6-pinion planet - gear ratio change kitCaseReplaces forward ring gear, planet, sun gear - narrows gear ratio spacing between first and second gearMany racers lose power between 1st and 2nd w/700R4s and 4L60Es due to the wide ratio between first gear (3.08-1) and 2nd gear (1.51-1) - Sonnax kit changes 1st gear to
Sonnax Smart ShellCaseBest sun shell on market. Can fully rollerize the mid-case when paired with an 03+ reaction shaft w/bearingUse an 07+ 4L70E induction hardened reaction shaft for high performance in any 700R4 or 4L60E
5-pinion planetary carriersCaseUse when power levels exceed 400 and/or RPMs exceed 5000

Install OEM Carriers only!
Debatable whether this is mandatory at those levels however can be installed in any year 700R4 or 4L60E


Performance Mods (more rows to be added later)
I very rarely use shift kits for most transmissions as much can be accomplished without them, especially if you have the transmission apart on the bench.

ProcedureLocationInstructionsAddl Info
Hole size for 1-2 shiftSeparator plateDrill 1-2 feed hole based on converter stall, final drive ratio, vehicle weight, desired shift firmness and 2nd Gear Servo Type installedAll things equal, the more apply surface area your 2nd gear servo has, the smaller the hole size you need to drill to accomplish a given level of ‘firm’

Example: 3000 stall converter in an F-body w/4.11 gears with a Sonnax Super Hold 2nd gear servo installed should have a .86-.90 1-2 feed hole in the plate to start.

Use factory 1-2 accumulator setup then shim 1-2 accumulator to firm up shift
Hole size for 2-3 shift and 2-3 exhaustSeparator plateDrill 2-3 feed and 3-2 exhaust to .093-.120 depending on converter stall, final drive ratio, vehicle weight, desired shift firmness.093 is fine for stock to mid-2000s stall - go .100-.110 for anything 2500-3000 and .112-.125 for anything north of 3000

Keep load release springs in the drum if clearance is .030-.040 and RPMs exceed 5000
Hole size for 3-4 shiftSeparator PlateDrill to .093-.123 based on stall speed, final drive ratio, vehicle weight, presence or absence of 4th accumulator circuit based on modsSee next row for 4th accumulator mods
4th accumulator mods - restrictCase - 4th accumulator piston boreRestrict 4th accumulator by installing old 4th acc piston upside down in bore w/no seal installed (grind off app ⅓ of legs first)

Install new 4th acc piston w/new seal and mesh legs w/old one
This restricts 4th accumulator oil by 90% and allows most to flow directly to the 4th gear apply servo piston to obtain overdrive

Use for when converter stall is less than 3000
4th accumulator mods - deleteCase - 4th accumulator piston boreDrive ¼ inch check ball into 4th accumulator feed orifice in bottom of piston bore

Leave piston, spring and pin and 4th acc check ball out
This mod is permanent

Use for all stall speeds 3000+ where racing may take place in overdrive (usually not recommended to race in OD)
2-4 Band ClearanceCase - Rev Input DrumKeep band clearance to ⅛” longitudinal travel (band on drum) for optimal life and shift quality
3-4 clutch pack setupForward DrumSet clearance to .030-.050 for all applications using stock number of frictions; add .010 for each additional friction up to two (2) then stop

Max clearance should be .060 regardless of number of frictions installed

HP/5000+ RPMs - keep load release springs in; use Transgo’s high rate return spring kit w/bleeder orifice
Drain BackPump BodyDrill drain back port to 5/16” on all high performance or heavy duty applications
Pump MachiningPump Body and CoverMachine pump cover on a lathe to make flat (take .010 off)

Machine pump body deck surface on lathe to make flat (take .010) off

Machine pump rotor/slide pocket to depth such that clearance between rotor and slide to deck is .002”
Check for run out on stator/pump cover while on lathe - if stator was swapped previously and not installed on a press, chances are it’s not installed perfectly square
Reverse Input DrumCaseReplace or resurface reverse input drum so wide band (Red or Kevlar-lined) can be installedUse a Kevlar lined band for anything super duty / full race or serious street strip
Sun GearsCaseCut four small shallow grooves at the 3-6-9-12 o’clock positions on both sides of rear sun gear and planet-facing side of forward sun gearThis increases lube flow to the captured bearings in both planetary carriers for better longevity and heat dissipation
Low-Reverse and Reverse Input Clutch Packs

(Race Only - No Street)
CaseLow Reverse - remove 3 friction discs and install tubular steels in their place

Reverse Input - remove two friction discs and install tubular steels in their place
This weakens the reverse clutch but reduces drag while moving forward - not recommended for street driven vehicles

More to come....
Perfect timing as my transmission just lost overdrive and has a tough time going into 3rd ! While i wont be rebuilding it i'll have a better understanding of whats involved or what might be wrong . Thank You
 

NickTransmissions

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Bumping this one up....Ive been seeing a lot of threads on 4L60E transmission replacement lately and know not everyone can afford to drop $1500-$3000 on a complete rebuild on short notice so are looking to the used transmission market as a stop gap solution.

To that end, I decided to do a video on the things I look for when buying a 4L60E or 700R4 core to rebuild and threw in a bunch of tips for folks looking for one to bolt in "as-is" to get the vehicle back on the road quickly while they save for a proper overhaul or replacement.

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Feel free to ask questions or add some tips of your own; if I get enough input ill do a part 2 or 3 (I'm already planning a 4L60E interchange video as well so look for that in the next couple weeks or so).
 

TXDevilDog

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Just had mine rebuilt with billet servos and all new internals
 

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mario572

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hey yall, has many might know still the 700r4 in the truck still I bought a used transmission it’s gonna be the original one from factory. Long story short I bought a different truck a few days ago. It’s a 98 gmc sirra 4wd, so it won’t shift pass 2nd gear and the only coedes throwing its p0102. It runs good it shifts in to 1st and 2nd like butter also reverse strong. what could it be?
 

NickTransmissions

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hey yall, has many might know still the 700r4 in the truck still I bought a used transmission it’s gonna be the original one from factory. Long story short I bought a different truck a few days ago. It’s a 98 gmc sierra 4wd, so it won’t shift pass 2nd gear and the only codes throwing its p0102. It runs good it shifts in to 1st and 2nd like butter also reverse strong. what could it be?
You seem to like trucks with bad transmissions....The 3-4 clutch pack is no good - time to yank it out and overhaul it...

At this point, I'd start learning how to rebuild these units if I were you...They're not that difficult and you don't need much in the way of special tooling...I have an entire 4L60E playlist as well as an extensive 700R4 playlist to help you along. To get started, tool-wise, you just need a good, sturdy work bench, a trans holding fixture and mounting base plus basic trans tools like a clutch spring compressor, snap ring pliers, a couple hose clamps of the right size along with rubber sheets that you can buy on Amazon and cut up to make teflon sealing ring resizing tools, a pump alignment tool (very large hose clamp) and a dial indicator and base to measure front end play as well as clutch clearances...Last thing you'll need is an air compressor, hose and gun with a rubber tip on it for air checking...You can have a trans shop R/R all the bushings for you - they typically charge $150 or so, including new bushings.
 
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