Wheel bearing maintenance; repack or replace?

[Schurkey]

I spent a long time tipping them sideways, and loading them into a bench vice. Eventually, I got lazy and just put the thing on the floor and stepped on it--after shielding the tool with a sheet of paper. All of that works. NLGI #2 grease (common wheel bearing grease thickness) is a bit too stiff to squeeze by hand with this tool. Well, for me, anyway.

 

[94ChevyZ71]

I agree with the don’t fix it unless it’s broke motto, and when I do have to fix something I only use American made. The reason being that I’m debating on wheel bearings is because the drive side makes a slight grinding noise when I’m off the gas turning to the left. Sometimes it makes the noise and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m starting to think that it’s because the CV axel joint isn’t full of grease because the boot has a tear in it. Seems reasonable to me. I know it’s hard to judge what’s wrong over the internet but does that seem to be my problem?

 

[Schurkey]

Start with what you know is wrong.

Don't forget to look at the brake pad wear indicators, too.

 

[94K3500PROJECT]

I agree with the don’t fix it unless it’s broke motto, and when I do have to fix something I only use American made. The reason being that I’m debating on wheel bearings is because the drive side makes a slight grinding noise when I’m off the gas turning to the left. Sometimes it makes the noise and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m starting to think that it’s because the CV axel joint isn’t full of grease because the boot has a tear in it. Seems reasonable to me. I know it’s hard to judge what’s wrong over the internet but does that seem to be my problem?

I used to be the same way. However as vehicles like these get older and older it gets harder and harder to keep up with the things that are broke.
Because of that, if you can afford it, replacing some things that don’t need it yet as preventative maintenance will really help keep them on the road and off the jack stands

 

[Pinger]

IF (big IF) your 2WD bearings look good when it's time to change rotors...clean and repack the original bearings, put them in the new rotors, and don't obsess.

The new rotors should have new races already installed. If the old races aren't burnt, pitted, or otherwise ruined; and if the rollers themselves look good...swap the old bearings into the new rotors with the new races. New grease seal. And let 'er rip.

I would NOT do this if there were any indication of bearing failure.

There is damage - hence me monitoring them so frequently. One has been adjusted badly and ran too tight and the other was run slack. Re-greasing them has let them survive but as rotors are due soonish, the whole lot together - and as new rotors will be pre-fitted with new races, it's the obvious course of action.

There's been some pretty shoddy work done on my truck. A guy I know told me that a lot of garages here (Scotland) will refuse to work on anything American and those who will are piss poor.
Maladjusted wheel bearings, shonky crimped connectors on the fuel pump wires, and the steering arm (supposed to be torqued to 180lbs.ft) little more than finger tight. I'm working through this stuff.

 

[Supercharged111]

I used to be the same way. However as vehicles like these get older and older it gets harder and harder to keep up with the things that are broke.
Because of that, if you can afford it, replacing some things that don’t need it yet as preventative maintenance will really help keep them on the road and off the jack stands

Not if you buy junk parts but think you're buying good parts that the crusty old stockers would still outlast.

 

[94K3500PROJECT]

Not if you buy junk parts but think you're buying good parts that the crusty old stockers would still outlast.

Yeah I agree. OEM stuff is better than almost any replacement part so you gotta spend some $$$

if it’s not a daily you can track down deals on the good parts it just takes some time and research

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

There is damage - hence me monitoring them so frequently. One has been adjusted badly and ran too tight and the other was run slack. Re-greasing them has let them survive but as rotors are due soonish, the whole lot together - and as new rotors will be pre-fitted with new races, it's the obvious course of action.

There's been some pretty shoddy work done on my truck. A guy I know told me that a lot of garages here (Scotland) will refuse to work on anything American and those who will are piss poor.
Maladjusted wheel bearings, shonky crimped connectors on the fuel pump wires, and the steering arm (supposed to be torqued to 180lbs.ft) little more than finger tight. I'm working through this stuff.

Set 3 and Set 5 are probably the ones for a half ton/C1500 truck. Yours being a 2500(3/4 ton), they'll be bigger and therefore a different number. I don't remember what my 90 R2500 3/4 ton square body Burb used, but I know the hubs are bigger, and not just because there's 8 lugs instead of 5. As long as the parts are looked up for the correct model, you SHOULD get the right ones....

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Set 3 and Set 5 are probably the ones for a half ton/C1500 truck. Yours being a 2500(3/4 ton), they'll be bigger and therefore a different number. I don't remember what my 90 R2500 3/4 ton square body Burb used, but I know the hubs are bigger, and not just because there's 8 lugs instead of 5. As long as the parts are looked up for the correct model, you SHOULD get the right ones....

If you read the whole thread, you'd know OP has a 4x4 with sealed hub assy's, not replaceable bearings. So your message is erroneous.

 

[Schurkey]

The OP has a 4WD. We're replying to Pinger, who lives out-of-country, and has a 2WD.

But since I can't remember if he has a C1500 or C2500, I hope I haven't steered him wrong with Set 3 and Set 5. They're good for 1500, and 2500 under 8600 GVW. But the 8600 GVW takes something else.

PBR35 i.e., Set 35 Front Inner wheel bearing
www.napaonline.com/en/p/PGBPBR35?impressionRank=8

I haven't been able to find the front outer yet.