Wheel bearing maintenance; repack or replace?

[Schurkey]

When I had mine apart the only number was on one of the inner races and therefore didn't define the OD of the outer race. The other bearing had no numbers.
If anyone knows the imperial sizing, it'd be good to know - given mine will need replacing soonish.

And you can't call them up and ask for a pair of Set 3 and Set 5 bearings? www.napaonline.com says those are the right ones for a '94 C1500. Other years or models might be different.

Maybe things are different in Scotland. I suppose those aren't popular over there like they are here...but...I don't know why they couldn't special-order two of each from any of a half-dozen suppliers.

 

[Pinger]

And you can't call them up and ask for a pair of Set 3 and Set 5 bearings?

I honestly don't know!
Bearings defined as 'Set X' I'd never heard of before encountering it on this thread. Doubt if UK bearing suppliers will have either. Usually, a bearing is identified by a 6 digit number which incorporates housing ID, shaft OD, and width. Invariably the step increments in sizes is metric.

Maybe things are different in Scotland. I suppose those aren't popular over there like they are here...but...I don't know why they couldn't special-order two of each from any of a half-dozen suppliers.

I need to explore thus further. GM trucks are a rarity here. Maybe the GM dealer can help though. Or bearing suppliers could 'special order'. I'll try them first with 'Set 3' and 'Set 5'. There is an importer of USA parts I can fall back on but broadening supplier range is worth doing.

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

I’ve used SFK also. The stuff I got from Timken so far has been made in USA. I just put new unit hubs on my F350 and my buddy had factory unit hubs. I bought the Timken version. Set them side by side and they were identical with the exception of the laser engraved numbers and logo. SFK makes a better hub stub shaft support bearing that’s caged vs the typical heaped stacked roll pin type that it comes with for the back of the hubs so that’s what’s going in at the yearly hub service

 

[94ChevyZ71]

I’ve got a 94 single cab k1500 that I’m wanting to replace front wheel bearings on. I’ve only ever replaced wheel bearings on 2wd vehicles. The trucks got 230k miles. I got it when it had 200k miles and haven’t changed them since. Would it be easier to just go ahead and buy brand new hubs with the wheel bearings? I’m putting upper and lower ball joints at the same time and I’ve got to replace a CV axle boot that’s torn so figured it would be a good time to do wheel bearings. Thanks for the help!

 

[Schurkey]

"I" would rather have 200,000-mile original wheel bearings than brand-new Communist Crap wheel bearings.

My '88 K1500 probably went 310,000 miles on the originals; and they were only replaced because I changed steering knuckles 'n' hubs when I upgraded the brakes.

Leave what you have until there's an actual problem.

 

[Supercharged111]

Same with ball joints. If it's not junk, it stays on the truck.

 

[Schurkey]

GM trucks are a rarity here. Maybe the GM dealer can help though. Or bearing suppliers could 'special order'. I'll try them first with 'Set 3' and 'Set 5'. There is an importer of USA parts I can fall back on but broadening supplier range is worth doing.

What happened with this? Any luck?

Buying tapered-roller bearings by the "Set" number is common as dirt here.

 

[Pinger]

What happened with this? Any luck?

Buying tapered-roller bearings by the "Set" number is common as dirt here.

Luck in the sense that my bearings have held up and look like they will until the rotors need replacing at which point I'll get the whole lot from Rock Auto.
When I was asking about the bearings it was a contingency plan in case I had to replace them in a hurry but I've been checking them for play and noise every 300-500 miles and they're fine. The need for rotors will be the driver by the looks.

 

[Schurkey]

IF (big IF) your 2WD bearings look good when it's time to change rotors...clean and repack the original bearings, put them in the new rotors, and don't obsess.

The new rotors should have new races already installed. If the old races aren't burnt, pitted, or otherwise ruined; and if the rollers themselves look good...swap the old bearings into the new rotors with the new races. New grease seal. And let 'er rip.

I would NOT do this if there were any indication of bearing failure.

For the record, what's sold as the Gearwrench bearing packer is a TERRIFIC tool. They used to be made by a small, independent company. They were also knocked-off by Lisle who has a very similar product. Anyway, very recommended for packing bearings IF you put a paper towel over the tool before you step on it to squeeze the grease into the bearings. Otherwise the dirt from your shoe goes into the grease. Stack the smaller, outer bearing on top of the bigger, inner bearing. Put the tool's plastic cone on the top, step on it to fill the space between the bearing rollers. Takes about seven seconds to pack both bearings from start to finish.

Country-of-origin is said to be China. Mine were made in the USA. Perhaps production has moved (Gearwrench is good for that...bastages!) or perhaps the COO is wrong on the Amazon web page.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2775D-Hand-Bearing-Packer/dp/B0002NYDYE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=EZ+Squeeze+grease&qid=1629479188&sr=8-3

 

[Supercharged111]

IF (big IF) your 2WD bearings look good when it's time to change rotors...clean and repack the original bearings, put them in the new rotors, and don't obsess.

The new rotors should have new races already installed. If the old races aren't burnt, pitted, or otherwise ruined; and if the rollers themselves look good...swap the old bearings into the new rotors with the new races. New grease seal. And let 'er rip.

I would NOT do this if there were any indication of bearing failure.

For the record, what's sold as the Gearwrench bearing packer is a TERRIFIC tool. They used to be made by a small, independent company. They were also knocked-off by Lisle who has a very similar product. Anyway, very recommended for packing bearings IF you put a paper towel over the tool before you step on it to squeeze the grease into the bearings. Otherwise the dirt from your shoe goes into the grease. Stack the smaller, outer bearing on top of the bigger, inner bearing. Put the tool's plastic cone on the top, step on it to fill the space between the bearing rollers. Takes about seven seconds to pack both bearings from start to finish.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2775D-Hand-Bearing-Packer/dp/B0002NYDYE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=EZ+Squeeze+grease&qid=1629479188&sr=8-3

I used one of those with an arbor press, very slick.