Rebuild or Replace?

[i3vil]

You know if run with radiator cap removed it WILL overheat. Part of cooling system design in modern engines is a pressure, heat exchange cooling. If your cap is good, meaning seals are good ,cap pressure checked good. It's not the cap unless the radiator cap neck is damaged. Some coolant expansion from heat is normal , that's the expansion tanks job, catch, hold, return. If after reaching normal temp, continues to rise, and the cap is venting coolant and bubbles into expansion tank.
Is it overheating from a lack of cooling, faulty thermostat, clogged water passage, clogged radiator tubes, radiator and or condenser packed full of bugs, grass, rags, dead birds, pine cones, oak leaves, etc.
Have you done a dynamic and differential cylinder compression checks. That would give you an idea of cylinder condition. And worn , what areas my be worn, and possibly identify head gasket condition.
Those checks would give you a little more information to help with decisions.

Also it’s a brand new, heavy duty thermostat

 

[Schurkey]

Also it’s a brand new, heavy duty thermostat

How do you know it's overheating? What is the temp gauge showing? What temp does the computer think the engine is at when you connect a scan tool and look at the temp sensor data?

If this is a head gasket that leaks and pressurizes the cooling system, it may not be overheating at all.

I have a suspicion that the engine is not overheating. The cooling system is being pressurized by combustion gasses.

But I've been wrong before.

What special tools would I need, I have the basic stuff, wrenches, sockets, impact wrench. As well as an assortment of hand and power tools from my work, I do maintenance on houses.

Precision measuring equipment such as micrometers for measuring crankshaft rod and main journals (2" to 3" outside mic for crankshaft, bore gauge suitable for ~4" bores and a 4" to 5" outside mic to measure the bore gauge and the pistons, feeler gauges for crank end-play and rod side-clearance --or (more realistically) you need a machinist you can trust. You could double-check his work using a cheap strip of Plastigage.

A vibro-engraver to mark main caps and rod/rod caps so they go back together just the way they were. I used to use a hammer and number-stamp set, but that's fallen out of favor--the stampings were said to be a stress-riser from which cracks could propagate.
www.amazon.com/WEN-21D-Variable-Depth-Carbide-Tipped-Engraver/dp/B07ST7NP89/ref=sr_1_4?crid=265C3AY8BGPNI

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

A bigass tub (20 gallon or more) of HOT soapy water to clean EVERYTHING. Rifle brushes to shove down oil galleries to scrub 'em out. Smaller round brushes to poke into the crankshaft oil holes.

CLEAN, lint-free rags to wipe the cylinder walls and other machined surfaces. Some ATF on that rag as cylinder-wall assembly lube, and to prevent rusting.

"Pipe plug" sockets to remove the oil gallery plugs, and to put them back when the block is clean. For ****'s sake, do not use a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" socket extension directly into pipe plugs with a female square wrenching surface. You'll break the extension at the drilling for the spring-ball socket retainer.

For the record, most machine shops will install those oil-gallery plugs, core plugs, etc. unless you tell them not to. I tell them not to, because I want to verify that there's no debris in those passages. Once the plugs are in, you don't have easy access to them for cleaning/inspection.

Most guys use a ring expander to install rings on pistons. I've been winding the rings on by hand with good success. A ring compressor to get the pistons shoved down the bores. I like the Lisle-brand "wrinkle band" compressor, and I despise the old style black-steel-with-a-ratcheting-clamp ring compressors. There are Asian knock-offs of the good Lisle wrinkle-band ring compressor. The knock-offs are NOT recommended! Other folks like other styles of ring compressor.
Good:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-21700-Wrinkle-Band-Compressor/dp/B0009OR93I/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Hateful:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-19500-Ring-Compressor/dp/B0002STSFS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

You'll need a QUALITY 100 75+ ft/lb torque wrench. Perhaps a 3/8" drive 10--75 ft/lb plus a 1/2" drive 30--150 ft/lb. Or a single, 3/8" drive 20--100 ft/lb unit, but some of your torques are likely to be less than 20 ft/lbs. Took another look at the SBC torque specs, and I don't see anything higher than 74 ft/lbs. Newer engines use torque-angle fastener instructions, older engines are merely torqued.

You'll need a hammer and a block of wood to pound the "speedy sleeve" onto the hub of the torsional damper, where the oil seal has worn a groove into the steel of the hub.

Some guys make-do with vice-grips or improvised items. I like using an actual flywheel turning tool to spin the crank as the pistons/rods go in.
www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U6Z288KID9YY

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

An engine hoist, an engine stand, and some chain and two 3/8-16 bolts with washers, suitable for lifting and holding the engine. Another, longer bolt with washers and a nut, so the chain can be bolted around the hook of the engine hoist--the chain can't slide on the hook unbalancing the engine. The hoist and stand are almost certainly going to be Chinese, and barely-adequate. I will not own a 3-wheeled engine stand. They can and do tip over. 4 wheels, preferably widely-spaced. You'll need four ~5 1/2" or 6" long 3/8-16 bolts, some heavy washers, plus a dozen 1/2" nuts to use as spacers on that crappy engine stand. If you don't space the engine away from the stand, you'll never be able to get at the flywheel/flexplate.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

And don't forget to buy a decent thread sealer (Loctite/Permatex 592 recommended) along with some assembly grease (Lubriplate 105, or Sta-Lube SL3331)
www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L0034-094-Motor-Assembly-Grease/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LTMWSLKQOVUZ

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

or
www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3331-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3.../dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
There's a hundred other options for assembly lube.

Gasket sealer--again, there's too many options to list, but DO NOT use RTV silicone as a gasket sealer. Use RTV Silicone INSTEAD of a gasket, not applied TO a gasket--except for a "dot" at the seam between two gaskets, or where a gasket and rubber seal meet.

Gasgacinch, and High Tack are my favorite gasket sealers, particularly Gasgacinch.

RTV sealer--specifically Permatex The Right Stuff black 90 minute version, (only because the 1-minute version is very expensive) but there's other options. Apply to the end rails (China Walls) of the block, sealing the underside of the intake manifold.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

Loctite 242 "Blue medium strength" threadlocker, to seal the core plugs, and perhaps other fasteners.
www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

Engine oil, coolant, air, oil, fuel filters; belts 'n' hoses, etc.
HIGH QUALITY flare-nut wrench to unscrew the fuel filter. I've seen 'em so rusted that I've had to splice in a new section of fuel tube because the original could not be loosened from the filter.

Most folks would want an oil-pump priming tool. The more engines I build, the less I give a spit about priming the oiling system. I've come to the conclusion that it's 90% wasted time, 9% religion/habit/obsession, and 1% peace-of-mind on any engine with a submerged oil pump like older Chevys. In any event, on Chevys, I've used an old Treasure Yard distributor with the teeth ground off the gear, and a machine screw secured on top to use as a handle. Photo is of a Pontiac distributor, but the concept is the same. I'd crank it BY HAND about one revolution per second (60-ish RPM) until I saw oil pressure on the gauge--about thirty seconds, maybe less. Any further "priming" is wasted effort.

You must be registered for see images attach

A timing light to adjust the distributor.

A scan tool to verify no codes before and after the engine work, and suitable sensor data, fuel trims, etc. after the engine is back in.



OK, gang--What'd I forget?

 

[Scooterwrench]

I have a suspicion that the engine is not overheating. The cooling system is being pressurized by combustion gasses.

But I've been wrong before.


Precision measuring equipment such as micrometers for measuring crankshaft rod and main journals (2" to 3" outside mic for crankshaft, bore gauge suitable for ~4" bores and a 4" to 5" outside mic to measure the bore gauge and the pistons, feeler gauges for crank end-play and rod side-clearance --or (more realistically) you need a machinist you can trust. You could double-check his work using a cheap strip of Plastigage.

A vibro-engraver to mark main caps and rod/rod caps so they go back together just the way they were. I used to use a hammer and number-stamp set, but that's fallen out of favor--the stampings were said to be a stress-riser from which cracks could propagate.
www.amazon.com/WEN-21D-Variable-Depth-Carbide-Tipped-Engraver/dp/B07ST7NP89/ref=sr_1_4?crid=265C3AY8BGPNI

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

A bigass tub (20 gallon or more) of HOT soapy water to clean EVERYTHING. Rifle brushes to shove down oil galleries to scrub 'em out. Smaller round brushes to poke into the crankshaft oil holes.

CLEAN, lint-free rags to wipe the cylinder walls and other machined surfaces. Some ATF on that rag as cylinder-wall assembly lube, and to prevent rusting.

"Pipe plug" sockets to remove the oil gallery plugs, and to put them back when the block is clean. For ****'s sake, do not use a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" socket extension directly into pipe plugs with a female square wrenching surface. You'll break the extension at the drilling for the spring-ball socket retainer.

For the record, most machine shops will install those oil-gallery plugs, core plugs, etc. unless you tell them not to. I tell them not to, because I want to verify that there's no debris in those passages. Once the plugs are in, you don't have easy access to them for cleaning/inspection.

Most guys use a ring expander to install rings on pistons. I've been winding the rings on by hand with good success. A ring compressor to get the pistons shoved down the bores. I like the Lisle-brand "wrinkle band" compressor, and I despise the old style black-steel-with-a-ratcheting-clamp ring compressors. There are Asian knock-offs of the good Lisle wrinkle-band ring compressor. The knock-offs are NOT recommended! Other folks like other styles of ring compressor.
Good:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-21700-Wrinkle-Band-Compressor/dp/B0009OR93I/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Hateful:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-19500-Ring-Compressor/dp/B0002STSFS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

You'll need a QUALITY 100 75+ ft/lb torque wrench. Perhaps a 3/8" drive 10--75 ft/lb plus a 1/2" drive 30--150 ft/lb. Or a single, 3/8" drive 20--100 ft/lb unit, but some of your torques are likely to be less than 20 ft/lbs. Took another look at the SBC torque specs, and I don't see anything higher than 74 ft/lbs. Newer engines use torque-angle fastener instructions, older engines are merely torqued.

You'll need a hammer and a block of wood to pound the "speedy sleeve" onto the hub of the torsional damper, where the oil seal has worn a groove into the steel of the hub.

Some guys make-do with vice-grips or improvised items. I like using an actual flywheel turning tool to spin the crank as the pistons/rods go in.
www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U6Z288KID9YY

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

An engine hoist, an engine stand, and some chain and two 3/8-16 bolts with washers, suitable for lifting and holding the engine. Another, longer bolt with washers and a nut, so the chain can be bolted around the hook of the engine hoist--the chain can't slide on the hook unbalancing the engine. The hoist and stand are almost certainly going to be Chinese, and barely-adequate. I will not own a 3-wheeled engine stand. They can and do tip over. 4 wheels, preferably widely-spaced. You'll need four ~5 1/2" or 6" long 3/8-16 bolts, some heavy washers, plus a dozen 1/2" nuts to use as spacers on that crappy engine stand. If you don't space the engine away from the stand, you'll never be able to get at the flywheel/flexplate.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

And don't forget to buy a decent thread sealer (Loctite/Permatex 592 recommended) along with some assembly grease (Lubriplate 105, or Sta-Lube SL3331)
www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L0034-094-Motor-Assembly-Grease/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LTMWSLKQOVUZ

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

or
www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3331-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3.../dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
There's a hundred other options for assembly lube.

Gasket sealer--again, there's too many options to list, but DO NOT use RTV silicone as a gasket sealer. Use RTV Silicone INSTEAD of a gasket, not applied TO a gasket--except for a "dot" at the seam between two gaskets, or where a gasket and rubber seal meet.

Gasgacinch, and High Tack are my favorite gasket sealers, particularly Gasgacinch.

RTV sealer--specifically Permatex The Right Stuff black 90 minute version, (only because the 1-minute version is very expensive) but there's other options. Apply to the end rails (China Walls) of the block, sealing the underside of the intake manifold.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

Loctite 242 "Blue medium strength" threadlocker, to seal the core plugs, and perhaps other fasteners.
www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

Engine oil, coolant, air, oil, fuel filters; belts 'n' hoses, etc.
HIGH QUALITY flare-nut wrench to unscrew the fuel filter. I've seen 'em so rusted that I've had to splice in a new section of fuel tube because the original could not be loosened from the filter.

Most folks would want an oil-pump priming tool. The more engines I build, the less I give a spit about priming the oiling system. I've come to the conclusion that it's 90% wasted time, 9% religion/habit/obsession, and 1% peace-of-mind on any engine with a submerged oil pump like older Chevys. In any event, on Chevys, I've used an old Treasure Yard distributor with the teeth ground off the gear, and a machine screw secured on top to use as a handle. Photo is of a Pontiac distributor, but the concept is the same. I'd crank it BY HAND about one revolution per second (60-ish RPM) until I saw oil pressure on the gauge--about thirty seconds, maybe less. Any further "priming" is wasted effort.

You must be registered for see images attach

A timing light to adjust the distributor.

A scan tool to verify no codes before and after the engine work, and suitable sensor data, fuel trims, etc. after the engine is back in.



OK, gang--What'd I forget?

Beer for self lubrication!

 

[GoToGuy]

Or you could get the " How to book " , probably on Amazon , motor books , How to Rebuild your small block Chevy " .
Get help from someone that knows basic troubleshooting. There's a lot of basic steps you'll be out of your depth.

 

[streetperf]

I see what you’re saying. Do you think doing a full rebuild would be too much then? Because I’m at over 360k and I’d rather do the whole thing then just each part as it goes out

Don't know what part of AZ you are in. However, having built quite a few of these TBI's engines there are quite a few things to do. First find a shop that can bore/hone with deck plates(yes it needs to be done with plates) square deck the block. Deck to 9.005". Align hone the mains. Deburr the oil return passages to get the oil back to the sump faster. Recondition the connecting rods with new bolts(stock style bolts will do fine) you don't need ARP's. Engine building satisfaction is based on the machine shops work, parts you install and experience. You also can put a roller cam if the block is already set up for it. Otherwise a flat tappet cam with oil additive will survive. Now if you are planning on spending $1000 and expecting a fresh rebuild, save your time and money you won't get the results your looking for.

 

[streetperf]

Also it’s a brand new, heavy duty thermostat

you can test your radiator with an infrared heat gun. That will give you an indication of heat transfer.

 

[Kens1990K2500]

I have a suspicion that the engine is not overheating. The cooling system is being pressurized by combustion gasses.

But I've been wrong before.


Precision measuring equipment such as micrometers for measuring crankshaft rod and main journals (2" to 3" outside mic for crankshaft, bore gauge suitable for ~4" bores and a 4" to 5" outside mic to measure the bore gauge and the pistons, feeler gauges for crank end-play and rod side-clearance --or (more realistically) you need a machinist you can trust. You could double-check his work using a cheap strip of Plastigage.

A vibro-engraver to mark main caps and rod/rod caps so they go back together just the way they were. I used to use a hammer and number-stamp set, but that's fallen out of favor--the stampings were said to be a stress-riser from which cracks could propagate.
www.amazon.com/WEN-21D-Variable-Depth-Carbide-Tipped-Engraver/dp/B07ST7NP89/ref=sr_1_4?crid=265C3AY8BGPNI

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

A bigass tub (20 gallon or more) of HOT soapy water to clean EVERYTHING. Rifle brushes to shove down oil galleries to scrub 'em out. Smaller round brushes to poke into the crankshaft oil holes.

CLEAN, lint-free rags to wipe the cylinder walls and other machined surfaces. Some ATF on that rag as cylinder-wall assembly lube, and to prevent rusting.

"Pipe plug" sockets to remove the oil gallery plugs, and to put them back when the block is clean. For ****'s sake, do not use a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" socket extension directly into pipe plugs with a female square wrenching surface. You'll break the extension at the drilling for the spring-ball socket retainer.

For the record, most machine shops will install those oil-gallery plugs, core plugs, etc. unless you tell them not to. I tell them not to, because I want to verify that there's no debris in those passages. Once the plugs are in, you don't have easy access to them for cleaning/inspection.

Most guys use a ring expander to install rings on pistons. I've been winding the rings on by hand with good success. A ring compressor to get the pistons shoved down the bores. I like the Lisle-brand "wrinkle band" compressor, and I despise the old style black-steel-with-a-ratcheting-clamp ring compressors. There are Asian knock-offs of the good Lisle wrinkle-band ring compressor. The knock-offs are NOT recommended! Other folks like other styles of ring compressor.
Good:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-21700-Wrinkle-Band-Compressor/dp/B0009OR93I/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Hateful:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-19500-Ring-Compressor/dp/B0002STSFS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

You'll need a QUALITY 100 75+ ft/lb torque wrench. Perhaps a 3/8" drive 10--75 ft/lb plus a 1/2" drive 30--150 ft/lb. Or a single, 3/8" drive 20--100 ft/lb unit, but some of your torques are likely to be less than 20 ft/lbs. Took another look at the SBC torque specs, and I don't see anything higher than 74 ft/lbs. Newer engines use torque-angle fastener instructions, older engines are merely torqued.

You'll need a hammer and a block of wood to pound the "speedy sleeve" onto the hub of the torsional damper, where the oil seal has worn a groove into the steel of the hub.

Some guys make-do with vice-grips or improvised items. I like using an actual flywheel turning tool to spin the crank as the pistons/rods go in.
www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U6Z288KID9YY

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

An engine hoist, an engine stand, and some chain and two 3/8-16 bolts with washers, suitable for lifting and holding the engine. Another, longer bolt with washers and a nut, so the chain can be bolted around the hook of the engine hoist--the chain can't slide on the hook unbalancing the engine. The hoist and stand are almost certainly going to be Chinese, and barely-adequate. I will not own a 3-wheeled engine stand. They can and do tip over. 4 wheels, preferably widely-spaced. You'll need four ~5 1/2" or 6" long 3/8-16 bolts, some heavy washers, plus a dozen 1/2" nuts to use as spacers on that crappy engine stand. If you don't space the engine away from the stand, you'll never be able to get at the flywheel/flexplate.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

And don't forget to buy a decent thread sealer (Loctite/Permatex 592 recommended) along with some assembly grease (Lubriplate 105, or Sta-Lube SL3331)
www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L0034-094-Motor-Assembly-Grease/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LTMWSLKQOVUZ

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

or
www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3331-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3.../dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
There's a hundred other options for assembly lube.

Gasket sealer--again, there's too many options to list, but DO NOT use RTV silicone as a gasket sealer. Use RTV Silicone INSTEAD of a gasket, not applied TO a gasket--except for a "dot" at the seam between two gaskets, or where a gasket and rubber seal meet.

Gasgacinch, and High Tack are my favorite gasket sealers, particularly Gasgacinch.

RTV sealer--specifically Permatex The Right Stuff black 90 minute version, (only because the 1-minute version is very expensive) but there's other options. Apply to the end rails (China Walls) of the block, sealing the underside of the intake manifold.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

Loctite 242 "Blue medium strength" threadlocker, to seal the core plugs, and perhaps other fasteners.
www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

Engine oil, coolant, air, oil, fuel filters; belts 'n' hoses, etc.
HIGH QUALITY flare-nut wrench to unscrew the fuel filter. I've seen 'em so rusted that I've had to splice in a new section of fuel tube because the original could not be loosened from the filter.

Most folks would want an oil-pump priming tool. The more engines I build, the less I give a spit about priming the oiling system. I've come to the conclusion that it's 90% wasted time, 9% religion/habit/obsession, and 1% peace-of-mind on any engine with a submerged oil pump like older Chevys. In any event, on Chevys, I've used an old Treasure Yard distributor with the teeth ground off the gear, and a machine screw secured on top to use as a handle. Photo is of a Pontiac distributor, but the concept is the same. I'd crank it BY HAND about one revolution per second (60-ish RPM) until I saw oil pressure on the gauge--about thirty seconds, maybe less. Any further "priming" is wasted effort.

You must be registered for see images attach

A timing light to adjust the distributor.

A scan tool to verify no codes before and after the engine work, and suitable sensor data, fuel trims, etc. after the engine is back in.



OK, gang--What'd I forget?

Wow, that is a detailed list. You were similarly helpful when I rebuilt my front suspension earlier this year. Thank you once again.

 

[RichLo]

Schurkey, you always impress!

OP, I normally wouldn't recommend a garage rebuild unless your experienced but how do you gain experience? With a vehicle that you dont need to get back on the road in a timely manner and you already have mechanical experience. You check both those boxes.

You will be surprised how many specialty tools and measuring devices that you need to do it right. It's not cheap for those tools... then once you start doing research you'll start thinking its not that much more to add slightly higher compression, then longer stroke, then better cam, then all roller valvetrain, then even higher compression, then better heads, then all forged internals, then boost seems pretty easy these days, then ... you get the idea, lol.

If you do decide to rebuild it yourself, keep it real.

At the very least you should* have a machine shop magnuflux the heads and block, measure/mill the deck on the block, bore/hone the cylinders, measure/mill the heads, measure/bore the cam journals and main journals. And like Schurkey said, do the final cleaning of the oil passages yourself. Most of them just throw the block in a giant dishwasher and call it good enough.

After the block and heads are back from the machine shop for the vital surfaces then you can get into the garage build. Gapping rings, Plasti-gauge bearings, resurfacing valve seals, rebuilding head components, measuring pushrod lengths, and so on.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Don't know what part of AZ you are in. However, having built quite a few of these TBI's engines there are quite a few things to do. First find a shop that can bore/hone with deck plates(yes it needs to be done with plates) square deck the block. Deck to 9.005". Align hone the mains. Deburr the oil return passages to get the oil back to the sump faster. Recondition the connecting rods with new bolts(stock style bolts will do fine) you don't need ARP's. Engine building satisfaction is based on the machine shops work, parts you install and experience. You also can put a roller cam if the block is already set up for it. Otherwise a flat tappet cam with oil additive will survive. Now if you are planning on spending $1000 and expecting a fresh rebuild, save your time and money you won't get the results your looking for.

I'm not convinced that torque plates are necessary for iron block engines. Millions of iron block engines were built before some overthinking machinist got bored and measured the .0005 difference it made bolting stiffening plates onto the decks while honing. You do know all that precision goes right out the window once the engine comes up to operating temperature right? Then you mash the gas and the block twists like a pretzel. It's just bragging and marketing!
I will agree with align honing crank and cam bores but again not necessary for a street engine. If everything is built to spec a good rebuild will last 1/2 million miles. Been there,done it,have the t-shirts!

 

[i3vil]

I have a suspicion that the engine is not overheating. The cooling system is being pressurized by combustion gasses.

But I've been wrong before.


Precision measuring equipment such as micrometers for measuring crankshaft rod and main journals (2" to 3" outside mic for crankshaft, bore gauge suitable for ~4" bores and a 4" to 5" outside mic to measure the bore gauge and the pistons, feeler gauges for crank end-play and rod side-clearance --or (more realistically) you need a machinist you can trust. You could double-check his work using a cheap strip of Plastigage.

A vibro-engraver to mark main caps and rod/rod caps so they go back together just the way they were. I used to use a hammer and number-stamp set, but that's fallen out of favor--the stampings were said to be a stress-riser from which cracks could propagate.
www.amazon.com/WEN-21D-Variable-Depth-Carbide-Tipped-Engraver/dp/B07ST7NP89/ref=sr_1_4?crid=265C3AY8BGPNI

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A bigass tub (20 gallon or more) of HOT soapy water to clean EVERYTHING. Rifle brushes to shove down oil galleries to scrub 'em out. Smaller round brushes to poke into the crankshaft oil holes.

CLEAN, lint-free rags to wipe the cylinder walls and other machined surfaces. Some ATF on that rag as cylinder-wall assembly lube, and to prevent rusting.

"Pipe plug" sockets to remove the oil gallery plugs, and to put them back when the block is clean. For ****'s sake, do not use a 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" socket extension directly into pipe plugs with a female square wrenching surface. You'll break the extension at the drilling for the spring-ball socket retainer.

For the record, most machine shops will install those oil-gallery plugs, core plugs, etc. unless you tell them not to. I tell them not to, because I want to verify that there's no debris in those passages. Once the plugs are in, you don't have easy access to them for cleaning/inspection.

Most guys use a ring expander to install rings on pistons. I've been winding the rings on by hand with good success. A ring compressor to get the pistons shoved down the bores. I like the Lisle-brand "wrinkle band" compressor, and I despise the old style black-steel-with-a-ratcheting-clamp ring compressors. There are Asian knock-offs of the good Lisle wrinkle-band ring compressor. The knock-offs are NOT recommended! Other folks like other styles of ring compressor.
Good:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-21700-Wrinkle-Band-Compressor/dp/B0009OR93I/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

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Hateful:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-19500-Ring-Compressor/dp/B0002STSFS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14HIFYKDY9VNR

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You'll need a QUALITY 100 75+ ft/lb torque wrench. Perhaps a 3/8" drive 10--75 ft/lb plus a 1/2" drive 30--150 ft/lb. Or a single, 3/8" drive 20--100 ft/lb unit, but some of your torques are likely to be less than 20 ft/lbs. Took another look at the SBC torque specs, and I don't see anything higher than 74 ft/lbs. Newer engines use torque-angle fastener instructions, older engines are merely torqued.

You'll need a hammer and a block of wood to pound the "speedy sleeve" onto the hub of the torsional damper, where the oil seal has worn a groove into the steel of the hub.

Some guys make-do with vice-grips or improvised items. I like using an actual flywheel turning tool to spin the crank as the pistons/rods go in.
www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=U6Z288KID9YY

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An engine hoist, an engine stand, and some chain and two 3/8-16 bolts with washers, suitable for lifting and holding the engine. Another, longer bolt with washers and a nut, so the chain can be bolted around the hook of the engine hoist--the chain can't slide on the hook unbalancing the engine. The hoist and stand are almost certainly going to be Chinese, and barely-adequate. I will not own a 3-wheeled engine stand. They can and do tip over. 4 wheels, preferably widely-spaced. You'll need four ~5 1/2" or 6" long 3/8-16 bolts, some heavy washers, plus a dozen 1/2" nuts to use as spacers on that crappy engine stand. If you don't space the engine away from the stand, you'll never be able to get at the flywheel/flexplate.

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And don't forget to buy a decent thread sealer (Loctite/Permatex 592 recommended) along with some assembly grease (Lubriplate 105, or Sta-Lube SL3331)
www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L0034-094-Motor-Assembly-Grease/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LTMWSLKQOVUZ

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or
www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3331-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3.../dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_22?crid=1MDH97MCNIER8
There's a hundred other options for assembly lube.

Gasket sealer--again, there's too many options to list, but DO NOT use RTV silicone as a gasket sealer. Use RTV Silicone INSTEAD of a gasket, not applied TO a gasket--except for a "dot" at the seam between two gaskets, or where a gasket and rubber seal meet.

Gasgacinch, and High Tack are my favorite gasket sealers, particularly Gasgacinch.

RTV sealer--specifically Permatex The Right Stuff black 90 minute version, (only because the 1-minute version is very expensive) but there's other options. Apply to the end rails (China Walls) of the block, sealing the underside of the intake manifold.
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TKFCPBEQHYWW

Loctite 242 "Blue medium strength" threadlocker, to seal the core plugs, and perhaps other fasteners.
www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NEKIYRND999B

Engine oil, coolant, air, oil, fuel filters; belts 'n' hoses, etc.
HIGH QUALITY flare-nut wrench to unscrew the fuel filter. I've seen 'em so rusted that I've had to splice in a new section of fuel tube because the original could not be loosened from the filter.

Most folks would want an oil-pump priming tool. The more engines I build, the less I give a spit about priming the oiling system. I've come to the conclusion that it's 90% wasted time, 9% religion/habit/obsession, and 1% peace-of-mind on any engine with a submerged oil pump like older Chevys. In any event, on Chevys, I've used an old Treasure Yard distributor with the teeth ground off the gear, and a machine screw secured on top to use as a handle. Photo is of a Pontiac distributor, but the concept is the same. I'd crank it BY HAND about one revolution per second (60-ish RPM) until I saw oil pressure on the gauge--about thirty seconds, maybe less. Any further "priming" is wasted effort.

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A timing light to adjust the distributor.

A scan tool to verify no codes before and after the engine work, and suitable sensor data, fuel trims, etc. after the engine is back in.



OK, gang--What'd I forget?

THANK YOU SO ******* MUCH DUDE. I really appreciate you taking time and answering these questions, I have a list of tools all set to go. If I take my engine to a machinist I won’t need those precision measuring tools, just something to check the work yeah?