3rd Rebuild on 98 5.7

[Aaron Davies]

Here’s a list, and while running at idle, I get that notorious spun rod bearing, the tapping and knocking.

 

[Schurkey]

Nope, it shows "Your Cart is Empty"

Well, more accurately, it brings each of us to our own Amazon Cart, assuming we're signed-in with our own Amazon account.


I see a gasket set, assembly lube, two sets of bolts you probably don't need 'cause you'd re-use the originals. I see a stroker crank. I see a "rebuild kit" but I'm too lazy to look it up separately. I'd expect a rebuild kit to have it's own gasket set, and pistons that won't be right for a stroker crank.

There's an intake manifold suitable for Vortec heads, but not suitable for Vortec injection. Maybe not suitable for EGR. So if this is gonna be a carb-swap, I'm outta here.

 

[Aaron Davies]

Well, more accurately, it brings each of us to our own Amazon Cart, assuming we're signed-in with our own Amazon account.


I see a gasket set, assembly lube, two sets of bolts you probably don't need 'cause you'd re-use the originals. I see a stroker crank. I see a "rebuild kit" but I'm too lazy to look it up separately. I'd expect a rebuild kit to have it's own gasket set, and pistons that won't be right for a stroker crank.

Could you direct to a proper rebuild kit/gasket set to go with the stroker crank? Should I plan on replacing the timing components, and the water pump as well? I was looking at upgrading the intake manifold as well.

 

[Schurkey]

Could you direct to a proper rebuild kit/gasket set to go with the stroker crank?

Summit or Jegs might have something with pistons that work with a stroker crank. Make sure you verify the compression height of the pistons, whether you're using a stock stroke or a longer stroke. Piston manufacturers love to shorten the pistons by .010--.020 for no good reason I can think of.

Should I plan on replacing the timing components, and the water pump as well?

I'd inspect the timing set, see how much slack it has. Most folks would just replace both items; I save what I can.

I was looking at upgrading the intake manifold as well.

Are you keeping the Vortec injection, or are you carb-swapping?

 

[Aaron Davies]

Is it worth keeping the Vortec injection or switching to carbonated? That’s the next question lol.

 

[Schurkey]

"I" would upgrade to the electronic injectors as a replacement for the poppet-style injectors, and keep the Vortec manifold.

Carb swaps tend to be a mess.

 

[Aaron Davies]

"I" would upgrade to the electronic injectors as a replacement for the poppet-style injectors, and keep the Vortec manifold.

Carb swaps tend to be a mess.

$329 plus tax. Plug and play conversion. Definitely a good idea lol and I should have done that from the start.

 

[Erik the Awful]

If the rods, pistons, and crank are good, there's no reason to replace them unless you really want a stroker or more compression. The factory parts are good up to 6,000 rpm and as much horsepower as you can make with stock-style heads. But you've already bored your block, so you're at least going to need pistons.

The only thing that hasn’t been replaced on the internal components of the motor is the pistons, the piston rings and connecting rods. I want to replace and possibly upgrade those as well.

I’ve had the block bored out,

If you don't have pistons in hand and you've had the block bored, you're already getting ahead of yourself. I would recommend getting floating pistons so that you can install them yourself in your garage with hand tools. Press-fit pistons can be done in your garage, but it's very fiddly, and removing a press-fit piston from the rod in your garage typically ruins the piston.

Many machine shops want the pistons in-hand, so they can get the proper piston-to-wall clearance. Supposedly, this clearance is built-into the pistons themselves. You'd bore to the nominal oversize, and the pistons are made small enough to get the needed clearance...but there's always exceptions.

You absolutely need to have the pistons in hand to give to the machinist before he bores your block. If your machinist is willing to bore your block without a piston in hand, consider finding another machinist. When I rebuilt the 350 out of WCJr, the pistons I got were machined exactly 4.000" when pistons are usually machined 3.997". That meant my machinist had to bore the block 4.003", and my ring end gap is slightly out of spec (good for nitrous!).

There's no way I'd just buy parts piecemeal for a stroker motor. There are waaay too many options out there that you can screw up and get a combination that doesn't clear or is unbalanceable. Get a complete kit, and don't spend money to have it balanced, have your machinist balance it.

 

[Scooterwrench]

If this is your first engine build I'd strongly recommend keeping it stock,less chance of installing incompatible parts.

 

[Schurkey]

^^^ What he said.

That, and have an on-site mentor to keep you out of trouble.