Top end vs 383 stroker

[L31MaxExpress]

@L31MaxExpress Like I said, ask 10 people the same question you will get 9 1/2 different answers.
I just happen to like the 010 its a tough block

The 880s are even tougher blocks, plus factory roller cam provisions and much less likely to develop a rear main seal leak. The machining on the 880s even the ones built in Mexico are also drastically improved. Never even had to shim a starter on one.

 

[Schurkey]

start with a "010" 4 bolt main block (for the high nickle content)

Everyone and their brother talks about "high nickle content" especially in the BOP-C world.

No one has proven to me that there's any nickle in any of those blocks. There is discussion that there is no nickle or tin in at least some of them. There's multiple threads at Speedtalk.com about 010 blocks and their metallurgy.

Example:

High nickel BBC myth - Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Chevy DID have a specific part number for a block with added TIN, however, and that's what they were recommending at that time for a performance small-block build.

Chevy Power, 4th edition lists p/n 366246 as a "350 CID Iron Cylinder and Case Asm. Bare, 4" bore, 4 Bolt Main, High Tin Alley" (sic) Of course they meant "High Tin Alloy".

EXCEPT for the short cylinder barrels, I'd be satisfied with a modern "880" block for a 383 or smaller engine. The short barrels are less of a concern now that modern pistons are shorter.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Everyone and their brother talks about "high nickle content" especially in the BOP-C world.

No one has proven to me that there's any nickle in any of those blocks. There is discussion that there is no nickle or tin in at least some of them. There's multiple threads at Speedtalk.com about 010 blocks and their metallurgy.

Example:

High nickel BBC myth - Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Chevy DID have a specific part number for a block with added TIN, however, and that's what they were recommending at that time for a performance small-block build.

Chevy Power, 4th edition lists p/n 366246 as a "350 CID Iron Cylinder and Case Asm. Bare, 4" bore, 4 Bolt Main, High Tin Alley" (sic) Of course they meant "High Tin Alloy".

EXCEPT for the short cylinder barrels, I'd be satisfied with a modern "880" block for a 383 or smaller engine. The short barrels are less of a concern now that modern pistons are shorter.

The short piston barrels are not a concern, use a 6" cap screw H or I beam rod and matching pistons. Very little clearence grinding needed to build a 383 or 396 and much less likely to hit water attempting to clearence such a combination for the added crank throw.

 

[Cheezebandit]

This is a very good comparison, with dyno results.
I have a 383 that was built by a company that is not in business any more. its a 4 bolt main late 60's block, (I'd recommend a one piece rear main block if you can get one or have one), 400 crank, Eagle I beam rods, some flat top pistons, (I cant remember the brand of right this second) some 195 CFM heads, comp cam, dual plane intake, Holley 770 street avenger carb (maybe slightly too big but its what I have).
the 1300 to go 383 over a 350 is worth it to me. I cant give you a power number because I don't know, I am currently redoing the exhaust. the shorty headers that were on it only had a 1.5 inch collector and a factory looking pipe on it.

Hope this helps in some way or at least gives you a direction.

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[barry_g]

This is a very good comparison, with dyno results.
I have a 383 that was built by a company that is not in business any more. its a 4 bolt main late 60's block, (I'd recommend a one piece rear main block if you can get one or have one), 400 crank, Eagle I beam rods, some flat top pistons, (I cant remember the brand of right this second) some 195 CFM heads, comp cam, dual plane intake, Holley 770 street avenger carb (maybe slightly too big but its what I have).
the 1300 to go 383 over a 350 is worth it to me. I cant give you a power number because I don't know, I am currently redoing the exhaust. the shorty headers that were on it only had a 1.5 inch collector and a factory looking pipe on it.

Hope this helps in some way or at least gives you a direction.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

this guy does good..stays more like most people in their back yard.
I rememeber 383 making the cover of a hot rod mag.. and my friend said "don't bother, the rod ratio is too hard"

the 350 can go a long freaking way..just feed it.

Getting old now, an engine that still has my daydreams is a 4.125 inch bore with 3 inch stroke.
6.1inch rod... 7k rpm could go a couple hundred miles right to the hammer.
even the weird 321 did 500hp and 476 foot pounds.. 830cfm.

it all depends on how you want your engine to go. I even made a 305 scoot down the road just to hang onto a 2.73 rear gear.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

this guy does good..stays more like most people in their back yard.
I rememeber 383 making the cover of a hot rod mag.. and my friend said "don't bother, the rod ratio is too hard"

the 350 can go a long freaking way..just feed it.

Getting old now, an engine that still has my daydreams is a 4.125 inch bore with 3 inch stroke.
6.1inch rod... 7k rpm could go a couple hundred miles right to the hammer.
even the weird 321 did 500hp and 476 foot pounds.. 830cfm.

it all depends on how you want your engine to go. I even made a 305 scoot down the road just to hang onto a 2.73 rear gear.

I have built a couple of 305s using the 601, 081, and 059 vortec heads that were rockets for what they were.

 

[barry_g]

I have built a couple of 305s using the 601, 081, and 059 vortec heads that were rockets for what they were.

they have been good to me. my first 5 liter was a 301 pontiac..1978.
I simply cuaght onto something as years went by.
octane for the daily...5 liters does soemthing just right.

I still drive one. my 5 speed 1996 gmc...still hits 20+ mpg in the summers.