The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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Highwayman

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New member first post. stuck. Putting refreshed older 350 in place of my 1999 Vortech engine, Using my Vortech stuff from the short block up, but replacing the cam with a Mellings R/V-torque grind. Ordered a timing set like normal, but the top gear is wrong for the cam. bet it is for the later model cam right? if I use an older timing set that matches the older cam will the computer on my CFI adjust to it ok? old school here, been awhile..it does use the crank trigger so would assume. ugh[/QUOTE]
 
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TonyObs350

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Ok so I am going this route on it. 1998 K1500 5.7 Vortec.
Comp Cams: 249-08-501-8
Xtreme Energy XR264HR Computer Controlled Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Lift: .488''/.495''
Duration: 264°/269°
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
RPM Range: 1200-5200

Comp Cams Retainers 787-16
LS6 Valve Springs 124-99-224
use stock vortec keepers.
tune it and it should be around 300hp maybe a little more
 

Schurkey

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New member first post. stuck. Putting refreshed older 350 in place of my 1999 Vortech engine, Using my Vortech stuff from the short block up, but replacing the cam with a Mellings R/V-torque grind. Ordered a timing set like normal, but the top gear is wrong for the cam. bet it is for the later model cam right? if I use an older timing set that matches the older cam will the computer on my CFI adjust to it ok? old school here, been awhile..it does use the crank trigger so would assume. ugh
When talking about GM engines, there's no "h" on the end of Vortec. "Vortech" is a brand of supercharger, though.

You're going to need the Vortec torsional damper, the Vortec timing cover, and the Vortec crank sensor and reluctor.

You'll need a timing set that's the same thickness as the Vortec crank gear, but with a cam gear machined for the larger bolt circle of the flat-tappet camshaft. This is probably going to be a single-row roller chain deal. Perhaps you can just get a different cam gear to match the crank gear and chain you already own.

I ALWAYS degree the camshaft. There's too many variables that can screw a person, to not check it.

If you're using a Vortec water pump, you'll need to plug the coolant bypass hole in the front of the block.
 

Highwayman

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When talking about GM engines, there's no "h" on the end of Vortec. "Vortech" is a brand of supercharger, though.

You're going to need the Vortec torsional damper, the Vortec timing cover, and the Vortec crank sensor and reluctor.

You'll need a timing set that's the same thickness as the Vortec crank gear, but with a cam gear machined for the larger bolt circle of the flat-tappet camshaft. This is probably going to be a single-row roller chain deal. Perhaps you can just get a different cam gear to match the crank gear and chain you already own.

I ALWAYS degree the camshaft. There's too many variables that can screw a person, to not check it.

If you're using a Vortec water pump, you'll need to plug the coolant bypass hole in the front of the block.


Thank you so sir, gives me a bit of direction to start picking parts. Also that coolant hole. been told that but had forgotten. degree the cam a good idea too, will do. lol fogive the 'H" lol
 

HawkDsl

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Apologies, Hawk, but you're recommending the parts shotgun approach. There's a lot more that can cause 'running rough and dying'...

Absolutely right, and great reply.

On a side note, it's a good idea to remove the TBI and tear it down for a good cleaning every 3 or so years. The pathways underneath get pretty nasty over time.
 

Treble

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What are your thoughts on these items?
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I'm missing the three bolts that hold down the injectors, not sure what happened to the originals. The injector spacer has a 14 psi spring and the 3 bolts that am missing-
 

PlayingWithTBI

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What are your thoughts on these items?
Is this going on a mostly stock engine? If not, a 14LB spring probably won't give you enough fuel. I've tried 18LB and 28LB springs. I can get 15 - 20 PSI on the 18LB spring with my AFPR from RV Morse Machining. 20PSI is barely enough for mine but 28 is too much, ha ha.
 
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