The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

[99caddymess]

Hey, quick stupid question. The motor in my 99 caddy blew up at 260,000 miles. I bought a short block reman and I dont think its a vortec. I haven't looked at it very long so I don't know it very well. I was just wondering, since its not a vortec, then what problems will arise since the new one doesn't have a cps. Or can I swap the cps over to the non vortec motor? Is it even worth it? Thanks in advance

 

[Erik the Awful]

Hey, quick stupid question. The motor in my 99 caddy blew up at 260,000 miles. I bought a short block reman and I dont think its a vortec. I haven't looked at it very long so I don't know it very well. I was just wondering, since its not a vortec, then what problems will arise since the new one doesn't have a cps. Or can I swap the cps over to the non vortec motor? Is it even worth it? Thanks in advance

See posts #1501-1505, above.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-put-a-vortec-motor-in-a-tbi-truck.49463/

 

[Bu327]

Get the right short block

 

[1ton-o-fun]

'93 C3500, 5.7, air conditioning, 100 amp alternator, NO air pump. These specifications call for one drive belt, (Let's call it #1)which I bought. Was too long. The SCREAMING belt that was on my truck looked pretty new. Call it #2. The part number on that belt matches 5.7, 100 amp, NO ac or air pump. So I bought a new #2. Problem solved... for a week. Starting to squeak again. Not screaming yet, but it's only a week old.
Tensioner feels good. Could it be the wrong tensioner?
Driving me f-ing nuts!

 

[Schurkey]

Worn pulley(s)? Stiff tensioner pulley bearing? Weak tensioner? Failed A/C pulley bearing?

 

[1ton-o-fun]

Worn pulley(s)? Stiff tensioner pulley bearing? Weak tensioner? Failed A/C pulley bearing?

New tensioner pulley, A/C compressor had been replaced by the Dorman bypass pulley. I even replaced that with a new one. This screeching really sounds like bearings... yet the slightest squirt of water on the belt instantly silences it. Hence, why I replaced the belt. It "solved" the problem, but temporarily like I said. Changing each pulley did nothing. But the puzzling part is the standard questions the parts stores ask to determine which belt. My configuration is supposed to be belt #1, which, when installed, has ZERO tension on it. -Too long. I have to use a pipe (1/2 of my floor jack handle) on my 3/8 ratchet on the tensioner for removal/installation of the belt... am I wrong to assume that means the tensioner is nice and tight?
I'm wondering if the tensioner was replaced with one meant for a different configuration than mine?
Guess I'm going to have to ask for one at the parts counter and compare...

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Is there another idler pulley, besides the Dorman bypass pulley? That could be part of the noise. If you have a good wire brush, I would clean each pulley with it, be sure you get as much rust and junk off them as possible. May be some type of contamination on them, that "goes away " temporarily when wet. Very easy for antifreeze to get in those little grooves and that will make a belt talk. Back in the V belt days, I remember seeing guys take a big flat blade screwdriver and carefully scrape the edges of the belt while the engine was idling.
Also, a good trick on replacing a serpentine belt by yourself, is to have a few clothes pins or the small metal spring clamps (the ones about 2 inches long), and use them to hold the belt up on the crankshaft pulley. That'll free you up to get the belt aligned on the other pulleys.

 

[1ton-o-fun]

Is there another idler pulley, besides the Dorman bypass pulley? That could be part of the noise. If you have a good wire brush, I would clean each pulley with it, be sure you get as much rust and junk off them as possible. May be some type of contamination on them, that "goes away " temporarily when wet.

Alternator, fake A/C, tensioner, power steering, water pump, and crank. I'm thinking it's the tensioner. Its position at rest, with no belt on it and its position WITH belt on is a good 4" difference. It still has a little more room to move when I flex it to put the belt on, but... I don't know. I've not had this much issue with a serpentine belt before. I've referenced belts at 3 different parts stores and they all ask the same questions about configuration. And how mine is configured calls for a belt that is too long. -Unless I'm supposed to have a tensioner that is longer than mine to apply more tension?
The pulleys look good and debris-free. Another thought is maybe I have something going out? Power steering pump pulley harder to turn? Everything seems fine, I'm just guessing out loud.

 

[east302]

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Your power steering flange is flush with the shaft?

Something to rule out.


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[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm thinking it's the tensioner. Its position at rest, with no belt on it and its position WITH belt on is a good 4" difference

Does your tensioner look like this one? There are 2 indicators on it (red arrows), with the belt on they should line up. In this picture the belt is a shade too long, it's to the right of the double bosses. Other tensioners should have some way to indicate this, HTH.

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