The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

[thz71]

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something like this?

People have done it, alot of trimming required

 

[blazin8556]

a/c panel is flashing on my 90. a/c lines have been removed. i can still turn on the blower when it stops flashing and change the blend door. what causes it to flash. never seen this before.
the truck has been converted to carb and found that the ecm is missing. is it tied to that?

 

[The Baron]

My running light fuse keeps popping. I recently changed taillights to a different pair of stock lights. I also have a visor and LED halo rings wired into my running lights, and LED gauge lights. I'm trying to go through everything but does anyone know what could be causing it in the meantime?

 

[Zanter22]

Can someone please tell me what the little buttons to the left of my steering column do?

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It lights up this red light when I press the down button.

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[thz71]

Can someone please tell me what the little buttons to the left of my steering column do?

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It lights up this red light when I press the down button.

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There's really no way to know unless we were there in person

 

[Zanter22]

There's really no way to know unless we were there in person

So this aftermarket? Maybe installed by the last owner.

 

[thz71]

So this aftermarket? Maybe installed by the last owner.

Yes it is aftermarket

 

[1sickcrewcab]

Anyone know why after I installed 1157 led parking bulbs in front, why now my led turn arrows stay on inside truck?? When I installed bulbs the right way in socket and then turn park lights on there not that bright. But when I turn bulbs around the wrong way they get way brighter but with both ways of flipping bulbs, the inside arrows stay on no matter what. Any ideas?? Led bulbs are from ebay if that helps.

 

[Pierce]

I installed led switchbacks and when all the lights are on they light up white and when I give a signal the amber comes on and flashes but the white stays on and just washes them out. I also installed an led relay so there is not hyper flash. Im just wondering if there is a way to get the white to go out when signaling so that the amber can actually be seen.

 

[7Cincinnatus]

I cannot turn back my key from the run position. I do not have power for my radio, heater, windows, PSOM, or wipers. However if I pull down on my steering wheel power is restored for as long as I hold that position. My deduction is that a wire is sheared or pinched. Is there a way to access wiring without pulling the wheel?

Many thanks

92 K1500

 

[Mangonesailor]

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Could someone let me know if this ground strap is in the correct location on the body? Pictured is the fuel filler neck.

 

[RiggRMortis]

Here's a dumb question: What's that box with wires under the drivers seat in my 94 Suburban Silverado? No power seats...

 

[IADC43]

1989 C1500
I replaced the under dash wire loom. I haven't been able to find where this connector with black and black/white stripe wires goes to. I thought to the convenience center, but the connector doesn't fit:

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[MDR-97-Z71]

Alright, so I wanna replace the pillar speakers in my extended cab (3rd door) and from some light research I can either take out the plastics like the write up thread and risk breaking God knows how many clips and ruin some interior pieces.. Or I can cut holes directly to the speakers? How would I go about this? Drivers rear is blown and the popping/noises are driving me bonkers and the passenger side isn't far from death either


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[DiGiTaL D]

Hello all, first post here and I have a stupid electronics question. I bought my '92 C2500 a couple months ago. It had an aftermarket stereo in it but the seller removed it before selling leaving an empty bezel. He used an adapter to go from the factory harness to the aftermarket unit so it was easy to go back to stock. There was the aftermarket single DIN bezel in the middle of the dash and the Metra pocket where the factory head unit used to be.

All my previous experience with GM factory radios has been in B-bodies and '95 and newer C/K trucks, so I was surprised to learn that the 88-94 factory radio is actually a remote control head running the radio under the dash. I bought a nice factory control head on eBay and also a factory center dash pocket (with the vents) because I wasn't planning to do a tape deck. After figuring out that I needed the radio as well, I pulled one from a junkyard truck that I also pulled the whole dash out of (mine is shattered). Yesterday I put everything together and of course the radio did not work.

Everything from the factory harness on the truck plugged in to the top of the radio unit under the dash no problem. On my head unit I've got two sets of wires coming from it. One is in the black jacket harness with the gray connector which I'm guessing is the main harness and the other is a pair of wires that goes to a white connector. One of them is white and one of them is white with yellow stripe. For this connector, I can't find a place to plug it in on the radio unit. Also coming from the gray connector on the main harness from the control head I have a single white wire that terminates in a single pin connector and I can't find a place for it either. I'm thinking that's for +12VDC that keeps the clock on the control head set but its weird because I don't know where to plug it in.

I checked the fuses and everything is good there. So I'm wondering if there were differences in control heads and radios over the 88-94 production run that would prevent a newer control head from running an older radio or vice versa. Or maybe the head or radio is just bad.

I want to stick to a stock radio because I don't really care for aftermarket units and I'd like to keep this truck as stock as possible.

Thanks in advance for any advice and help.

 

[Jacob]

Question about the door jam switch:

When I open the drivers door the key in ignition beeper comes on but not the dome light. Dome light works from dimmer switch and from both rear doors. Do I need to look at the switch or somewhere else?

 

[Mudgopher]

Question:

I have this sub woofer:
Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MOQCM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

and this amp:
BOSS AUDIO R1100M Riot 1100-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2-8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

The sub is 4 ohm, and the amp is 2 ohm. I was wondering if I can just hook them up or if I need to wire it in such a way as to compensate for the sub being double the ohm rating. The literature that came with the equipment isn't much help. The amp puts out 825w at 2 ohm, and 413 at 4ohm. The sub can only handle 500w.

I'm thinking the sub has an impedance of 4ohm, so just hooking it up will work fine, except this might overheat the amp. Is the only option just to hook it up and see, or is there an alternate way to wire it to ensure the amp isn't overheating and the sub isn't exceeding 500w?

 

[df2x4]

You answered your own question. Amp puts out 413W at 4 Ohms. Sub will handle 500W at 4 Ohms. You're fine.

EDIT - To clarify, Ohms = Resistance in the circuit. Your amp will automatically adjust to the Ohm load. Just hook it up like you normally would.

 

[Mudgopher]

Thanks. That's what I figured, but felt I better ask and be safe than sorry.

 

[df2x4]

Thanks. That's what I figured, but felt I better ask and be safe than sorry.

For sure, you're welcome! As an added bonus your amp will probably run cooler at 4 Ohms than it will at 2. Should be a pretty nice match.