Synthetic Oil

[great white]

Well, this is turning into the typical synthetic oil debate it usually does.

There's waaay too much to discuss on oil types so I'll just recommend the op Google " oil, type iv, type v". That's the oil types and determine for yourself "synthetic or not", its properties and whether or not its for you.

The additive package is another area of concern and changes from manufacturer to manufacturer. Also worth spending some time one google to determine what you want to use.

Stay away from sites like "Bob is the oil guy" or amsoil, too much crap in with the good stuff and too much vested interest. Look for sites that discuss hydrocracking base stock and sites like esso and shell are good for basic info.

I personally run mobile 1 synthetic in my gassers because its a high quality type IV, readily available and affordable.

My diesels get Rotella T6 for the same reasons.

I don't extend oil changes by much. I don't bother with used oil analysis because it costs just over half of what an oil change costs. So I just change the oil. They can be helpful for other reasons, but I just do it "old school" by paying attention to what the engine is telling me...

 

[TerryD]

FWIW, I tried swapping our Suburban over to synthetic oils to see what would happen. On conventional oils, at around 4000 miles it begins using oil. Kinda gives me a warning it's ready for a change. On the synthetic oil, it starred using it immediately. I ran that for a typical 4500 mile interval and I bet I added 3 quarts to it.

After the change back to conventional oil, it went right back to not using a drop for around 4000 miles then using just enough to notice till changed again.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

^^^^^ I've heard this from a lot of people, also that it will slip past gaskets easier.

 

[SkyHighColorado]

If you are burning it up that fast you have issues. Synthetic is superior period. I love hearing people say "all oil is the same" that's just simply verbal diarrhea.

 

[great white]

^^^^^ I've heard this from a lot of people, also that it will slip past gaskets easier.

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I'd stop listening to those "people" if I were you....

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Haha. I hear ya, just stating that I had heard it before. Wasn't agreeing or disagreeing. I try to stay away from oil debates, they never go anywhere.

 

[TerryD]

If you are burning it up that fast you have issues. Synthetic is superior period. I love hearing people say "all oil is the same" that's just simply verbal diarrhea.

I would normally agree with you, except that my results seem to point to the synthetic going around rings or valve seals easier in an older engine than conventional.

I did not notice any worse leaking than just the damp areas that have been there as long as we've had it. So I don't think it was leaving externally.

 

[michael hurd]

Oil does wear out, the additive packages break down....dino oil thickens with age.

 

[SkyHighColorado]

I would normally agree with you, except that my results seem to point to the synthetic going around ruins or valve seals easier in an older engine than conventional.

I did not notice any worse leaking than just the damp areas that have been there as long as we've had it. So I don't think it was leaving externally.

Incorrect, full synthetic has higher zddp (zinc) than conventional which is what older engines require a lot of because of metal to metal contact. TBI engines need this even more so because of our flat tappet cams. What likely happened is the synthetic oil cleaned up your dirty engine making existing issues more obvious or apparent to you. Switching to synthetic will still increase the life and efficiency of your engine even with your issue.

And yes oil does wear out its proven by science.

 

[TerryD]

It's a roller Vortec engine and the problem went away with the first oil change back to conventional.