Engine oil for a tbi 350

[MrobsMan]

Has anyone on here used the valveoline high mileage max life oil? I’m planing on trying it I like that it’s not full synthetic but not sure how good it is for the flat tappet cams…

 

[Komet]

I've been running it in my rigs for about 7 years now. No complaints, no sludge buildup. I change it every 3k or less. If your motor is stock, I wouldn't worry about the flat tappets because the stock springs are light and the lift is mild.

You might think you want a zinc additive for a high performance flat tappet setup, but you might as well just save the money for new bearings after it shreds itself apart anyway.

 

[MrobsMan]

I've been running it in my rigs for about 7 years now. No complaints, no sludge buildup. I change it every 3k or less. If your motor is stock, I wouldn't worry about the flat tappets because the stock springs are light and the lift is mild.

You might think you want a zinc additive for a high performance flat tappet setup, but you might as well just save the money for new bearings after it shreds itself apart anyway.

All ive got done is a mild comp cam

 

[90gmcsierraL59]

I ran Amsoil 10W40 high zinc in my 90 GMC K motor and it held 25 pounds of oil pressure at a hot idle and 40 pounds running down the road with 250K on it. Oil consumption was negligible about a quart a year. I also used K&N oil filters exclusively. I changed it at 7500 miles or once a year whichever came first.

 

[Tom A]

I'm running 5W30 like the cap and book say. Am I missing something? Seems like everyone is running something different. I use a semi synthetic not a full synthetic. Afraid of running full synthetic in an older engine.
1990 GMC 350 TBI 56K miles

 

[GoToGuy]

K2500, running Mobil 1, since new, 195,000. 10-40, Tahoe and K1500, as it's many days over 100° F . Afraid of synthetic, based on what?
Everybody has a favorite brand , just like ice cream. Use quality that meets requirements.
Older vehicle, that's used mineral all its life , lazy oil changes, it's already a short service life.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

The best oil is the cleanest oil. I can’t see going over 4000 miles without contaminating the oil unless you are sending samples to Blackstone labs to determine an educated extended interval plan. If our climate doesn’t get colder than -10F then conventional oil is fine. Colder climates require 100% full synthetic as the oil stays liquid when -40 compared to conventional that will freeze up. Semi synthetic is a waste of money, It’s more expensive than conventional without the advantages.

 

[Komet]

Just to get the coals raging here, I put full synthetic in a BMW M20 motor once and it leaked a pint out in 24hrs. Swapped it for conventional and never had another leak.

I have also only ever used full synthetic in the wife's 2003 Toyota v6, never leaked a drop and it's still golden at 4500 miles. Different motors do different things.

Millions of people have put every flavor of oil in SBCs, I don't think they care much being derivatives of ye olde dinosaur motors. Keep it fresh and a reasonable thickness for your climate and you're good to go.

 

[Jason_Staggs]

Engine oil is like socks and underwear. Everyone uses different types but as long as you change in a timely manner you’ll be fine. They’re also similar in the way that some people neglect to change them. Personally I’ve ran everything from OReilly brand 10w30(what I currently use with a delco filter) to Castrol 5w30 to Valvoline 5w30 full syn and haven’t noticed very much difference, but my motor is 100% stock with 180k miles.

 

[someotherguy]

Anecdotal evidence for running "what the book says" - my '93 7.4 has an oil pan gasket leak, apparently. It was damp when I got it. I changed it with 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic and now it drips a puddle on my driveway.

Yeah, the real solution is to replace the gasket which is on my long list of things to do. Not to switch back to an inferior oil in hopes of a band-aid.

Richard