Any 383 kits available for our trucks?

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Erik the Awful

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Just getting the parts and tools to retune my TBI was going to be more than half the cost of a Sniper. That made the decision for me. Then I discovered the nickel-and-dime approach Holley uses on selling the bits.
 

UtOBS

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Just getting the parts and tools to retune my TBI was going to be more than half the cost of a Sniper. That made the decision for me. Then I discovered the nickel-and-dime approach Holley uses on selling the bits.
What all is needed and where can I buy it. I have a manual btw so do not need stand alone tranny controller
 

Erik the Awful

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Buy the basic Sniper kit, not the master kit. Holley sells the original Snipers refurbished for just under a grand, but now they're selling the Sniper 2 for just a couple hundred more. If you're competent at wiring, skip the PDM kit.

Upgrade your stock fuel pump to the Vortec fuel pump - it plugs right in place of the TBI pump and can support 400+ hp.
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-EP381-Original-Equipment-Electric/dp/B000C9SHOU

You'll need the $16 throttle arm extension or if you mash the pedal too hard you can bend the throttle arm. Without it the throttle action is too fast and you'll be smoking the rear tires at every intersection. Note: I just discovered that Summit's selling the same arm for $13.

You'll need AN-to-metric adapters so you can adapt your factory fuel lines to the AN fittings on the Sniper. I believe these are the two I used.

I used two female AN-to-AN to go from the adapters to the Sniper, but the Sniper 2 moved the fuel inlets to the passenger side, so you'll need two short female AN-to-AN hoses. That'll be a DIY exercise, and if you've never assembled braided hose and AN fittings, it's a learning experience. Tightly tape the braided hose and cut it with a hacksaw.

You'll also need the throttle stud for the throttle arm. I believe this is the one I bought. No guarantee.

Then you'll also need a throttle bracket. Summit's generic Holley bracket is a bit fiddly, but works good.

You can run the factory distributor, but I couldn't get the timing control to work with it, so I upgraded to the Sniper Hyperspark distributor. Then I discovered you need a separate coil and ignition box to make it plug-and-play with the Sniper.

Here's the build thread for WCJr where I jumped to the Sniper.
 

UtOBS

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Buy the basic Sniper kit, not the master kit. Holley sells the original Snipers refurbished for just under a grand, but now they're selling the Sniper 2 for just a couple hundred more. If you're competent at wiring, skip the PDM kit.

Upgrade your stock fuel pump to the Vortec fuel pump - it plugs right in place of the TBI pump and can support 400+ hp.
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-EP381-Original-Equipment-Electric/dp/B000C9SHOU

You'll need the $16 throttle arm extension or if you mash the pedal too hard you can bend the throttle arm. Without it the throttle action is too fast and you'll be smoking the rear tires at every intersection. Note: I just discovered that Summit's selling the same arm for $13.

You'll need AN-to-metric adapters so you can adapt your factory fuel lines to the AN fittings on the Sniper. I believe these are the two I used.

I used two female AN-to-AN to go from the adapters to the Sniper, but the Sniper 2 moved the fuel inlets to the passenger side, so you'll need two short female AN-to-AN hoses. That'll be a DIY exercise, and if you've never assembled braided hose and AN fittings, it's a learning experience. Tightly tape the braided hose and cut it with a hacksaw.

You'll also need the throttle stud for the throttle arm. I believe this is the one I bought. No guarantee.

Then you'll also need a throttle bracket. Summit's generic Holley bracket is a bit fiddly, but works good.

You can run the factory distributor, but I couldn't get the timing control to work with it, so I upgraded to the Sniper Hyperspark distributor. Then I discovered you need a separate coil and ignition box to make it plug-and-play with the Sniper.

Here's the build thread for WCJr where I jumped to the Sniper.
What would be needed to build my stock TBI system
 

PlayingWithTBI

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What would be needed to build my stock TBI system
I'm sure you've seen this elsewhere but, here it is in a nut shell.

If you're using the 454 TB, depending on what year it's off, you can try its original injectors at 13 PSI. Or use the stock 61 LB/Hr ones from your 350 and an 18 LB spring. Otherwise get your TB bored out to 46mm and get the 18 LB spring.

Either way, you'll want to have your intake bored to 50mm, for the 454 TB, or at least 48mm for the 46mm one (I paid $50).

The Edelbrock 3704 intake gives you better flow and more torque than the OE one. It's made to fit the TBI heads slanted center bolts. It gives you better flow and more torque than the OE one. It's made to fit the TBI heads 2 inside (on each side) slanted center bolts too. Pre-COVID, I paid $351.95 for it

Or get a 4 barrel intake and use an adapter ( see www.SPRPerformance.com for that too).

The EBL Flash-II is self learning and has expanded tables, including the capability of boost and the bottle if you want.

With TunerPro RT which is free (unless you wanna make a contribution, suggested) you can modify your .bin AND data log as long for as you want, there's no space or time limit on your log.

And a 12 pin USB to ALDL cable. With your laptop, you're good to go tuning.:waytogo:
 

L31MaxExpress

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Buy the basic Sniper kit, not the master kit. Holley sells the original Snipers refurbished for just under a grand, but now they're selling the Sniper 2 for just a couple hundred more. If you're competent at wiring, skip the PDM kit.

Upgrade your stock fuel pump to the Vortec fuel pump - it plugs right in place of the TBI pump and can support 400+ hp.
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-EP381-Original-Equipment-Electric/dp/B000C9SHOU

You'll need the $16 throttle arm extension or if you mash the pedal too hard you can bend the throttle arm. Without it the throttle action is too fast and you'll be smoking the rear tires at every intersection. Note: I just discovered that Summit's selling the same arm for $13.

You'll need AN-to-metric adapters so you can adapt your factory fuel lines to the AN fittings on the Sniper. I believe these are the two I used.

I used two female AN-to-AN to go from the adapters to the Sniper, but the Sniper 2 moved the fuel inlets to the passenger side, so you'll need two short female AN-to-AN hoses. That'll be a DIY exercise, and if you've never assembled braided hose and AN fittings, it's a learning experience. Tightly tape the braided hose and cut it with a hacksaw.

You'll also need the throttle stud for the throttle arm. I believe this is the one I bought. No guarantee.

Then you'll also need a throttle bracket. Summit's generic Holley bracket is a bit fiddly, but works good.

You can run the factory distributor, but I couldn't get the timing control to work with it, so I upgraded to the Sniper Hyperspark distributor. Then I discovered you need a separate coil and ignition box to make it plug-and-play with the Sniper.

Here's the build thread for WCJr where I jumped to the Sniper.

I used Fragola fittings and Parker EFI hose that I covered with a protective sleeve on my Proflow4. Stock TBI steel hard lines from the tank to under the passenger front seat. The stock TBI fuel filter was the same as the Vortec trucks, swapped it for a K&N high quality replacement. Those style fittings are what I used to adapt the GM steel hard lines to -6 as well. I should probably order that same throttle lever setup, hopefully it clears the throttle lever nut that holds the Edelbrocks throttle lever to the throttle shaft. I noticed while I was running it the Proflow4 has very touchy response to the point it will be difficult not to smoke the vans right rear tire off a traffic light. The radius it is currently on wants to yank those 500 cfm worth of front primary barrels open quickly with a light amount of pressure on the accelerator.

I used a Delphi vortec pump myself. My old gas tank was full of varnished sludge and rust as well as had poor baffling, just a tiny plastic tray in the bottom. I replaced the tank with an inexpensive Dorman tank and installed a new Spectra sending unit. Interestingly I pulled the old tank out which probably had 5-10 gallons of the mess in it, shoved it outside in the middle of a rain storm because the smell was nauseatingly bad, to dispose of it the next morning and overnight it disappeared. Some scrapper literally took the whole thing, nasty fuel and all.

I do not have the actual vans inside wiring powered up yet, but hopefully that corrects the inacurate gas gauge. I ended up using an inexpensive 4150 style throttle cable bracket and modified the OE cruise control bracket to keep my cruise. I still need a few more cushion clamps to secure and route the fuel lines adequately before I actually put it on the road but they are already on the way.

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UtOBS

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I'm sure you've seen this elsewhere but, here it is in a nut shell.

If you're using the 454 TB, depending on what year it's off, you can try its original injectors at 13 PSI. Or use the stock 61 LB/Hr ones from your 350 and an 18 LB spring. Otherwise get your TB bored out to 46mm and get the 18 LB spring.

Either way, you'll want to have your intake bored to 50mm, for the 454 TB, or at least 48mm for the 46mm one (I paid $50).

The Edelbrock 3704 intake gives you better flow and more torque than the OE one. It's made to fit the TBI heads slanted center bolts. It gives you better flow and more torque than the OE one. It's made to fit the TBI heads 2 inside (on each side) slanted center bolts too. Pre-COVID, I paid $351.95 for it

Or get a 4 barrel intake and use an adapter ( see www.SPRPerformance.com for that too).

The EBL Flash-II is self learning and has expanded tables, including the capability of boost and the bottle if you want.

With TunerPro RT which is free (unless you wanna make a contribution, suggested) you can modify your .bin AND data log as long for as you want, there's no space or time limit on your log.

And a 12 pin USB to ALDL cable. With your laptop, you're good to go tuning.:waytogo:
Thanks. Do you think this setup would work good with a 377 stroker (383 crank and rods with stock bore pistons.) and AFR heads?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Do you think this setup would work good with a 377 stroker (383 crank and rods with stock bore pistons.) and AFR heads?
Yep, that's what I'm running now on my 377 Blue Print short block with 08-432-8 Comp Cams and their 986-16 springs on Summit Racing aluminum heads. I'm currently running it up to 5700 RPM. Better HP and TQ throughout the power range over a 350 all day long.

 

UtOBS

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Yep, that's what I'm running now on my 377 Blue Print short block with 08-432-8 Comp Cams and their 986-16 springs on Summit Racing aluminum heads. I'm currently running it up to 5700 RPM. Better HP and TQ throughout the power range over a 350 all day long.

This is probably a dumb question, but this is my first time messing with anything carbureted. Anything iv ever touched has had modern fuel injection and therefore all the parts are made for it.

the AFR top end kit I found says the heads are meant for a carb. Will they work with TBI or will I have to buy different heads. I’d do what is a good top end kit to go with a 377. Or good peices to peice my own together if that’s cheaper.

You seem to have had my exact build I’m wanting. A built TBI sbc. You dont see many. They are all Holley or carb swapped.
 
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