willdabeast69
Mudd Slutt
Since no one has posted this yet and theres a boat load of questions on this, i decided to jack this from dirtysouthZ71 on FSC
"Most people jump straight into their questions regarding a SAS on the IFS Gm because of the horrible reputation from the "hard-core" off-roaders. I myself have run many different lifts and tire sizes on IFS and I can vouch personally it is strong enough for the average off-roader. Fact to fact the comparison is totally apples to oranges. It can be debated for hours and get no where, it's all a matter of opinion. Everyone's scenario is different. Think about your options before you take the plunge.
The swap is straight forward and very easy for a person of average skill the hardest part is collecting the parts. (Unless you have a large budget)
Parts you will need to pull off the swap:
Axles: Depending on their condition and age, I would recommend rebuilding the axles you use. If not a total rebuild at least replace the seals and grease all bearings. Also do not forget to re-gear! This is not a must unless you plan on running much larger tires.
Front Axle: Look for a Ford High Pinion front axle out of the 78-79 year model trucks. The axles are driver-side differentials with a higher pinion which will help the front drive-line angles. You must also change the outers to Dana 60 Chevrolet outers if you wish to run matching lug pattern wheels if you are not using a matching set. You may use a GM axle which is much easier to find.* These axles however, are passenger side differentials so they will not work with your stock transfer case so you will have to run another. (If you wish to run a GM front more information on the transfer case is below)
Rear Axle: If you wish to keep your stock rear end that is fine, just remember the common axle to tire size guide. If you are increasing to 1 ton or even 3/4 ton you will need to replace your rear axle. If you are lucky your donor truck will have matching axles (i.e., Dana 60's). If you cannot find a matching set then I would recommend the 14 bolt full float rear axle. This is the strongest GM axle made and there are plenty available. Detroit lockers are also cheap for them.
Brackets: Most people choose to make their own brackets. I personally was going to but after talking with a few people about home made brackets I decided not to. If you're a good welder to each his own. I am a very good welder; I just preferred the ORUs style. Being the main base of the entire build I strongly recommend buying them. The engineering and guaranteed fit is worth it. ORU usually takes 3 weeks to get a set to your door from the day of ordering, so be sure to plan accordingly.* (FYI the ORU kit also adds at least 3" of lift to the front-end of the truck.) www.offroadunlimited.com* If you choose to make your own then I would recommend welding a cross member across the front frame rails and then attach front spring hangers from a 73-87 GM. For the front lift spring mount toward the back of the hanger I would use the OEM rear tension hangers. I have seen this done and will save some of the lift part of your budget (as you can incorporate some lift into the cross member). Just remember I have never used that method myself.* I have only done researched and it looks like the best and easiest way to line it up correctly. No matter which way you go, I recommend bolting and running a bead around all brackets.
Lift: When ordering a lift for your newly solid axle truck you will need to order a 73-87 GM suspension lift. They are fairly cheaper, but remember do not order a complete lift only, what you need! I only used front springs and front and rear brake lines along with 4 shocks. The rest will be of no use for you as the steering linkage is all different and the rear springs are too short for the newer body style truck. For the rear depending on how high you're going you can order large springs from a big IFS lift company such as: FULLTHROTTLE or WHIPLASH. If you are only going up 10" and below you can use super lift springs and a block or shackle flip combination. www.4wheelparts.com
Transfer Case = If you don't go with a Ford axle and choose to use a Chevy Axle you will need a new T-case. It really depends on what kind of transmission you have. Most GM transmissions are a direct bolt-on to one of the New Process transfer cases (NP208 NP205 NP203). If you wish to use a non bolt-on transfer case go to Advance Adapters.* They have every combination adapter you would need. www.advanceadapters.com
Now that you have a nice yard ornament solid axle GM you will need to address quite a few more items before the truck is near drivable.
Steering: You must run crossover! I'm not even going to mention how to use another setup because I think steering should in no way be overlooked. ORU sells a total crossover kit for the SAS but I recommend fabbing or having your own fabricated. The idea is very simple a drop pitman, arm drag-link tie rods, and a machined steering arm on the passenger knuckle. DO NOT RUN A BENDED DRAG LINK. www.offroadunlimited.com
Brakes: Replace the pads, calipers, and rotors on your axles. If you are running larger axles, you will also now have larger brakes.* Just remember to get extended brake lines and be sure they are long enough for the suspensions full cycle.
Panhard bar: No one really mentions running a Panhard bar on the front axle while doing a SAS but after running without one, I 100% recommend it. It helps steering and also eliminates doglegging while driving.
Drive line: Front and rear shafts must be extended for the amount of lift you have. A local shop can extend your drive-line and if you don't have a local shop give www.highangledriveline.com a call.
If anyone has anything to add please do so. If you see any mistakes please also inform me so they can be corrected. I wrote this in hopes of being able to help someone wanting to take on this project."
"Most people jump straight into their questions regarding a SAS on the IFS Gm because of the horrible reputation from the "hard-core" off-roaders. I myself have run many different lifts and tire sizes on IFS and I can vouch personally it is strong enough for the average off-roader. Fact to fact the comparison is totally apples to oranges. It can be debated for hours and get no where, it's all a matter of opinion. Everyone's scenario is different. Think about your options before you take the plunge.
The swap is straight forward and very easy for a person of average skill the hardest part is collecting the parts. (Unless you have a large budget)
Parts you will need to pull off the swap:
Axles: Depending on their condition and age, I would recommend rebuilding the axles you use. If not a total rebuild at least replace the seals and grease all bearings. Also do not forget to re-gear! This is not a must unless you plan on running much larger tires.
Front Axle: Look for a Ford High Pinion front axle out of the 78-79 year model trucks. The axles are driver-side differentials with a higher pinion which will help the front drive-line angles. You must also change the outers to Dana 60 Chevrolet outers if you wish to run matching lug pattern wheels if you are not using a matching set. You may use a GM axle which is much easier to find.* These axles however, are passenger side differentials so they will not work with your stock transfer case so you will have to run another. (If you wish to run a GM front more information on the transfer case is below)
Rear Axle: If you wish to keep your stock rear end that is fine, just remember the common axle to tire size guide. If you are increasing to 1 ton or even 3/4 ton you will need to replace your rear axle. If you are lucky your donor truck will have matching axles (i.e., Dana 60's). If you cannot find a matching set then I would recommend the 14 bolt full float rear axle. This is the strongest GM axle made and there are plenty available. Detroit lockers are also cheap for them.
Brackets: Most people choose to make their own brackets. I personally was going to but after talking with a few people about home made brackets I decided not to. If you're a good welder to each his own. I am a very good welder; I just preferred the ORUs style. Being the main base of the entire build I strongly recommend buying them. The engineering and guaranteed fit is worth it. ORU usually takes 3 weeks to get a set to your door from the day of ordering, so be sure to plan accordingly.* (FYI the ORU kit also adds at least 3" of lift to the front-end of the truck.) www.offroadunlimited.com* If you choose to make your own then I would recommend welding a cross member across the front frame rails and then attach front spring hangers from a 73-87 GM. For the front lift spring mount toward the back of the hanger I would use the OEM rear tension hangers. I have seen this done and will save some of the lift part of your budget (as you can incorporate some lift into the cross member). Just remember I have never used that method myself.* I have only done researched and it looks like the best and easiest way to line it up correctly. No matter which way you go, I recommend bolting and running a bead around all brackets.
Lift: When ordering a lift for your newly solid axle truck you will need to order a 73-87 GM suspension lift. They are fairly cheaper, but remember do not order a complete lift only, what you need! I only used front springs and front and rear brake lines along with 4 shocks. The rest will be of no use for you as the steering linkage is all different and the rear springs are too short for the newer body style truck. For the rear depending on how high you're going you can order large springs from a big IFS lift company such as: FULLTHROTTLE or WHIPLASH. If you are only going up 10" and below you can use super lift springs and a block or shackle flip combination. www.4wheelparts.com
Transfer Case = If you don't go with a Ford axle and choose to use a Chevy Axle you will need a new T-case. It really depends on what kind of transmission you have. Most GM transmissions are a direct bolt-on to one of the New Process transfer cases (NP208 NP205 NP203). If you wish to use a non bolt-on transfer case go to Advance Adapters.* They have every combination adapter you would need. www.advanceadapters.com
Now that you have a nice yard ornament solid axle GM you will need to address quite a few more items before the truck is near drivable.
Steering: You must run crossover! I'm not even going to mention how to use another setup because I think steering should in no way be overlooked. ORU sells a total crossover kit for the SAS but I recommend fabbing or having your own fabricated. The idea is very simple a drop pitman, arm drag-link tie rods, and a machined steering arm on the passenger knuckle. DO NOT RUN A BENDED DRAG LINK. www.offroadunlimited.com
Brakes: Replace the pads, calipers, and rotors on your axles. If you are running larger axles, you will also now have larger brakes.* Just remember to get extended brake lines and be sure they are long enough for the suspensions full cycle.
Panhard bar: No one really mentions running a Panhard bar on the front axle while doing a SAS but after running without one, I 100% recommend it. It helps steering and also eliminates doglegging while driving.
Drive line: Front and rear shafts must be extended for the amount of lift you have. A local shop can extend your drive-line and if you don't have a local shop give www.highangledriveline.com a call.
If anyone has anything to add please do so. If you see any mistakes please also inform me so they can be corrected. I wrote this in hopes of being able to help someone wanting to take on this project."
