Sniper fuel line return

[LosDoritos]

So I’ve got a 90 k1500 with a mild built 350, I put a sniper and hyperspark ignition kit in it and the sniper is leaking fuel out of the return side, not near or out of the line or outlet but deeper in the throttle body dumping it down the side of the unit, Holley says a 3/8 return line is needed but the stock on the truck is 5/16, we wanna do a 3/8 line but we’re not sure if we using an adapter to put the 3/8 line to the 5/16 pump would cause any pressure issues, is this even the cause of the leak? We can’t think of anything else that could have done that.

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[Erik the Awful]

I'm running the Sniper in my '89 through the factory fuel lines with no problems. I'd send that throttle body back and have tell them to fix their crap. The Sniper is Holley's most "budget-focused" (read: cheap) FI unit, and they cheap out wherever they can.

 

[LosDoritos]

I'm running the Sniper in my '89 through the factory fuel lines with no problems. I'd send that throttle body back and have tell them to fix their crap. The Sniper is Holley's most "budget-focused" (read: cheap) FI unit, and they cheap out wherever they can.

it’s strange bc we ran it the first day without and throttle linkages and just sitting there opening the throttle to see how the engine sounded (we had issues with stock timing control) and there were no leaks, it was when I was burping the coolant, letting it run on idle, my gpa came over and saw a puddle of gas on my intake, I ended up calling Holley and even the guy said the smaller line should be ok until you start hitting the snipers HP capabilities, it doesn’t leak out when priming the fuel pump/sniper, only while running

 

[Scooterwrench]

Can't see the fuel in your pic. Coming out where the wires are going in or around that pipe plug? If it's the plug you can take it out and paint a little permatex aviation sealer on the threads and tighten it back in. Be careful not to get messy with the sealer,just on the threads not any on the bottom of the plug. If coming out around the wire entrance then they nicked an injector o-ring during assembly and it will have to go back so they can fix their screw up. Bummer,looks like you were pretty close to closing the hood.

 

[LosDoritos]

Can't see the fuel in your pic. Coming out where the wires are going in or around that pipe plug? If it's the plug you can take it out and paint a little permatex aviation sealer on the threads and tighten it back in. Be careful not to get messy with the sealer,just on the threads not any on the bottom of the plug. If coming out around the wire entrance then they nicked an injector o-ring during assembly and it will have to go back so they can fix their screw up. Bummer,looks like you were pretty close to closing the hood.

I was SOOO close that pic was with the engine off but I ended up doing a box swap for the throttle bodies and the new one has no leaks, got it home but the wizard tune for the sniper isn’t enough, so if anyone has any tips or sites for a FIRST EVER time tuning I’d appreciate it, I’ve looked at some Holley videos and am gonna create a custom basic timing table and see where that gets me, I’ll also be getting the sniper splitter and usb for live tuning abilities so I don’t have to take the sd card out EVERYTIME

 

[Erik the Awful]

I have no idea on tuning. I'm running a healthy cam on Vortec heads and mine busted off and ran good from the start.

Check all your data stream and make sure every sensor is reporting correctly.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I thought those things came with a handheld monitor/controller that you set the starting parameters with and then can change the tune on once its own ECM did some learning?

 

[LosDoritos]

I thought those things came with a handheld monitor/controller that you set the starting parameters with and then can change the tune on once its own ECM did some learning?

It did some learning on the drive home but I don’t have tags or insurance so I wasn’t driving it anymore than I needed to, right before I pulled in the parking lot it died on me, I believe the computer learned a lil and set my idle a lil lower, we did adjust my throttle screw, I’m not to worried ab that part but it hesitates giving it power, the highest throttle position I got to was 66% and I felt the hesitation, when I looked at the data log the timing seemed to be there when it needed to but I’m not 100% on what I’m looking at, this is the motor I have https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19433030 and here are the motor specs

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I did a few things in the touchscreen, like I went from stock cam to mild and it hesitated a bit worseso I threw it back, but I have the stimming set to 10 on idle and 32 on WOT as the book recommends but I’m new to all this so I’m not sure if I need to add timing or take it away, also not tryna break stuff

 

[LosDoritos]

I have no idea on tuning. I'm running a healthy cam on Vortec heads and mine busted off and ran good from the start.

Check all your data stream and make sure every sensor is reporting correctly.

The only thing that I think read funny in the data log was my rpm it said it was like 64 million or sum crazy, it showed proper rpm on the 3.5 display while driving but the log file must’ve got messed up somehow I’m gonna get some more in my free time and when it’s road legal ofc

 

[Scooterwrench]

Yeah,frst go to the Holley site and study up about loading the set up parameters then you will need to drive it in real world conditions and try to use the whole throttle spectrum. First let it warm up at idle then drive it gradually harder so it learns air/fuel and timing for your particular application. Try to hold throttle positions for as long as you can or as the speed limit allows. 10mph for a 30sec,20mph,30mph,,,,,, ect. Don't just whack the throttle WFO,roll on it slowly and gradually until you can go WOT. The ECM has to have time in each block to monitor and adjust A/F and timing. Check out your tach signal and make sure the tach wire is not near plugs wires. EMF coming off the plug wires can create strange tach readings like you describe. Make sure all your electrical connections are sound and waterproof.