serpentine belt

[JPVortex]

hi yall so my ac compressor is shot on my 94 K1500 5.7, so i'm throwing in a belt for a no AC truck in there. Only problem is that I dont know the alternator amperage.

The RPO codes mean nothing because the engine is not original, so I have no clue which one it is.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[454cid]

hi yall so my ac compressor is shot on my 94 K1500 5.7, so i'm throwing in a belt for a no AC truck in there. Only problem is that I dont know the alternator amperage.

The RPO codes mean nothing because the engine is not original, so I have no clue which one it is.

Any advice appreciated.

Check that you don't have to add an idler pulley, too. It might be easier to keep your belt and get one of the dummy compressor pulleys.

 

[Carlaisle]

Dorman 34152 or its equivalent is the AC delete pulley for the 1994 5.7, but that may not matter if your engine has been replaced. Not sure if it requires a different length belt. Be careful running compressors that are shot. When it locks up - and it will sooner or later - it will shred that belt before you know what happened.

 

[JPVortex]

Check that you don't have to add an idler pulley, too. It might be easier to keep your belt and get one of the dummy compressor pulleys.

Yeah I believe that I do. Looking at belt diagrams of no ac trucks it is labeled with idler pulley where the ac compressor would be

 

[JPVortex]

Dorman 34152 or its equivalent is the AC delete pulley for the 1994 5.7, but that may not matter if your engine has been replaced. Not sure if it requires a different length belt. Be careful running compressors that are shot. When it locks up - and it will sooner or later - it will shred that belt before you know what happened.

Yeah that's what I'm worried about lol. Will definitely look into that dorman part.

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT on the compressor is "shot"?

If the pulley bearing is bad, you need a different bearing, a replacement compressor, or a bypass pulley. "I" would cram in a new bearing. Probably costs the same--maybe less--than a bypass pulley.

If the compressor guts (Pistons, rods, valves, cylinders, clutch) are defective, but the bearing and pulley are OK, you've got no reason to replace anything. Pull the electrical connector off the clutch so it can't engage, shut the hood and forget it's a problem. The compressor pulley and bearing IS your bypass pulley.

 

[JPVortex]

WHAT on the compressor is "shot"?

If the pulley bearing is bad, you need a different bearing, a replacement compressor, or a bypass pulley. "I" would cram in a new bearing. Probably costs the same--maybe less--than a bypass pulley.

If the compressor guts (Pistons, rods, valves, cylinders, clutch) are defective, but the bearing and pulley are OK, you've got no reason to replace anything. Pull the electrical connector off the clutch so it can't engage, shut the hood and forget it's a problem. The compressor pulley and bearing IS your bypass pulley.

the pulley bearing is prob bad. When the compressor is on it sounds fine, but when off it makes a terrible grinding pulley noise most of the time, but not all the time.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

hi yall so my ac compressor is shot on my 94 K1500 5.7, so i'm throwing in a belt for a no AC truck in there. Only problem is that I dont know the alternator amperage.

The RPO codes mean nothing because the engine is not original, so I have no clue which one it is.

Any advice appreciated.

Are there any markings on the alternator that may have amperage or a part number? My most recent experience is with the Vortecs...on them the 140 amp alternator is noticeably larger than the 105 amp. Makes an inch difference in the belt.

 

[thinger2]

the pulley bearing is prob bad. When the compressor is on it sounds fine, but when off it makes a terrible grinding pulley noise most of the time, but not all the time.

Make sure the compressor clutch isnt dragging.
Disconnect the electrical plug and see if you get any grinding noise.
Look for metal dust anywhere near or around the clutch face.
Take the belt off and check for any movement or slop in the pully.
You shouldnt be able to feel any.
Use a feeler gauge to check the gap between the clutch face and the pulley.

 

[thinger2]

the pulley bearing is prob bad. When the compressor is on it sounds fine, but when off it makes a terrible grinding pulley noise most of the time, but not all the time.

Friggen internet.
Im gonna try this again.
Disconnect the plug from the ac compressor clutch and see if you get a grinding noise.
Check for any movement up down in out side to side on the clutch pulley.
Does it spin freely with no noise with the belt off.
Look for metal dust anywhere near the clutch.
Check the clutch air gap all of the way around with a feeler gauge.
Clean the outer clutch throughly and look for cracks or broken spring tabs loose rivets.
Check the thickness of that outer clutch face.
My old ac clutch is still about .170 thick
But only has about .010 before its digs into the rivets.
One of the 3 springs broke and it dragged and skipped on the clutch and overheated that spot enough that it cracked around a rivet and that rivet cocked sideways into the pulley side of the clutch.
It worked great with the ac on because that broken rivet stabbed into the clutch and grabbed.
As soon as I turned it of the wreckage chewed it all up and sounded like a bad bearing.
The bearing is fine.
I put a Murray 48656 reman ac clutch on my 94 about 8 years ago and it is still good.
But, it can be a real pain to do.
Three things make it difficult.
Removing the retaining ring that holds the pulley on.
Getting the pulley off without breaking the snout off of the compressor.
Setting the air gap
It takes a special tool which Oreillys used to have as a loaner.
The absolutely insane amount of time it takes to get that outer offshore piece of **** clutch face flat and trued to the hub in order to achieve what basically boils down to plus or minus .010.
Air gap is very critical.
80 buck part, 20 bucks for beer. 30 bucks for Scotch.
You can do it.
You just some calming zen when you do.