Replacing part of an axle tube.

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DeCaff2007

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Ok, so here's what's up so far with the new axle. I got it all torn down, washed, sandblasted, painted, and even mocked up the carrier so that I had my shims and backlash set correctly.

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All I had to do was tear it all down one last time to install the pinion seal and crush sleeve. I got to threading on the pinion nut and it gave me a really hard time going on. WTF?

Now this:

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CRAP!! That pinion nut was brand new out of a Yukon Gear & Axle rebuild kit. GRRRRR. I looked at the threads on the pinion gear and well they are saveable, but I had to order a new pinion nut and a 7/8-14 die. This pinion gear is original to the truck, as is the ring gear.

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This sucks because otherwise this rear would have been DONE today. I could have gone to the junkyard for another nut... to what end? No guarantee I'd be able to actually break one loose. Even then, I still had to order the die to fix the pinion threads.

Tomorrow is another day, and hopefully everything I've ordered will come in.
 

someotherguy

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Ok, so here's what's up so far with the new axle. I got it all torn down, washed, sandblasted, painted, and even mocked up the carrier so that I had my shims and backlash set correctly.

You must be registered for see images attach


All I had to do was tear it all down one last time to install the pinion seal and crush sleeve. I got to threading on the pinion nut and it gave me a really hard time going on. WTF?

Now this:

You must be registered for see images attach


CRAP!! That pinion nut was brand new out of a Yukon Gear & Axle rebuild kit. GRRRRR. I looked at the threads on the pinion gear and well they are saveable, but I had to order a new pinion nut and a 7/8-14 die. This pinion gear is original to the truck, as is the ring gear.

I had a similar experience years ago with a Comp Cams kit to convert to adjustable valvetrain on a Vortec 7.4. Locknuts, rocker spacers, and special studs - and several of the nuts crapped out the threads on the studs on install. :( Hardware is such a hit-or-miss proposition these days.

Richard
 

DeCaff2007

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I had a similar experience years ago with a Comp Cams kit to convert to adjustable valvetrain on a Vortec 7.4. Locknuts, rocker spacers, and special studs - and several of the nuts crapped out the threads on the studs on install. :( Hardware is such a hit-or-miss proposition these days.

Richard
That sounds like a torque monster, albeit thirsty, engine.

So, about that pinion nut.... I tried every local parts store we have here. I was either put on hold for a ridiculous amount of time or the idiot behind the counter had no idea what they were doing.

I can count more than one instance where the conversation went something like this:

Counterman: Can I help you?
Me: Yea... 89 Chevy K1500, 4.3L.
Counterman: o_O Did you say eighty nine?

Gawd forbid they get asked to look up something for a manual transmission. Also, I thought the counterman helping me yesterday was going to have a panic attack when I asked for a wheel cylinder. The computer gave the option for front or rear. What?!?
 

stutaeng

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Wow! That's crazy! Must be a Millennial thing? :rolleyes:

Where the threads of the yoke nut damaged then? I believe they are egg-shapped when new so when you tighten them up they create a locking nut.

I've seen guys recommend loktite, and others plumbing pipe thread sealant on the threads to prevent fluid from leaking thru the threads, and some guy don't put anything. Not sure what the actual manufacturer processes is...
 

DeCaff2007

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I'm not likely getting my parts today. Amazon says "package lost". This is why I can never keep a vehicle on the road. Amazon doesn't deliver and parts store employees are idiots.
 

sewlow

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I pulled this axle off of a 97 K1500 ECSB....and most importantly, it's a posi...I pulled the cover and it's got a G80 chunk in it. I have a chunk I'll be using, so this one will go in my 83 Grand Prix... if it will fit.
Nope. Won't fit. The G/P has the teeny-weeny 7.5" 10 bolt.
IIRC, w/26 spline axles.
The C/K1500's = 8.5", '88/'89, -28 spline. '90+, -30 spline.
Being a 1500, the 'posi' will be a G-G-Gov-lock.
Even if that carrier could fit the G/P's diff housing, the install of a gov-lock would just be adding a big problem to a rear end that's just as problematic, along with being weaker than the 8.5's under 1/2 ton 400's.

That G/P's little diff is common to G-Bodies. A lot of them were equipped with really tall, I mean r-e-a-l-l-y tall gears!
If it was not a special order this is what GM put in...
Most V6 Manual cars came with 2.73.
Most V6 automatic cars came with 2.41.
Most V8 Cars came with 2.29.
Most V8 Manual cars came with 2.73.
78-88 G-body gears.
2.14 :)eek:)
2.29
2.41
2.56
2.73
3.08
3.23
3.42
3.73
That 2.29 and 2.56 Ratio was fairly common in H body cars as well.

Depending on your level of patience and the wreckers you have available, look for a Monte Carlo SS. Slightly larger. 7.625" (7 & 5/8's) The complete diff is a bolt-in swap.
83/84 have 3.42's and 85-88 have 3.73's. The change was due to the upgrade from the early TH350 to the later 200R4.
The G-Body G-80 code was for an Eaton/Auburn Limited Slip clutch-style carrier. Not a Gov-Lock.
But...it's still just a 7.5".
If you want/need a rear to take some abuse, comparatively, the rare 8.5 axle out of either '83/'84 Hurst Olds', '84 or newer 442's, (3.73's) Turbo Regals or Grand Nationals, (3.42 or 3.73's) are the best choices. Not the cheapest, but the best junkyard solution.

Most G-Body guys pushing any real power, swap in narrowed 12B.'s, or Ferd 8.8"/9".
 
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