Rebuild + Performance

[Ccchatzzz]

I have a 2000 Tahoe limited 5.7 with close to 300k miles. I’m about to re build the engine and was thinking of a few performance upgrades. It will be a daily driver so I want it to be reliable after the build. I appreciate any help! Thank you in advance.

 

[CumminsFever]

Do you have a budget? Must it remain smog legal?
If possible, I'd jump for making it a 383. It would need supporting mods, but would be a reliable performance build that would make you smile when your foot touches the go pedal.

 

[Ccchatzzz]

I was thinking between 1500 to 2000. Would the stroker kit cover everything I need for the rebuild?

 

[docstoy]

Price depends on what kit you decide on, how much wear in cylinder walls , if there is wear on cylinders then your looking at possible boring to larger size which leads to oversize pistons , that is same if rebuild or going to stroker . Like Cummins fever stated above , what's your budget , as the old saying says, Speed/ Performance cost money , how fast do you want to go. Not trying to be a SA , but nothing is cheap or even reasonably priced these days.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Would the stroker kit cover everything I need for the rebuild?

No. You'll need a gasket set, and whenever you rebuild a stock engine, it's a good idea to put new valvesprings and retainers in it.

If you stick with the stock bottom end, the price stays pretty low. Put new bearings in it and spend that $2k on good heads and a cam that can use them. If you go stroker, that eats up half your budget and you're stuck with the Vortec heads, which aren't bad, but they limit your potential.

If you go with good heads, that also eats up half your budget, but they don't require having your block bored.

If you're on the fence with a stroker kit versus heads, inspect your Vortecs and have them magnafluxed. More likely than not at least one of them is cracked, which forces you into buying heads.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

A 383 stroker is 4.030" bore X 3.75" stroke or 4" X 3.80". A 4" bore by 3.75" is a 377 cu in. In all cases you need to clearance the block for the stroke and possibly bore it for new pistons, etc.

Here's some kits as an example
www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/engine-rotating-kits/actual-engine-displacement/6-3l-383

Small Block Chevy 383 Stroker Kit | Summit Racing

Looking for a complete 383 stroker kit for a small block Chevy engine to gain serious horsepower? Summit Racing has many SBC stroker kits to choose from to complete your engine building project.

www.summitracing.com

 

[400Rogue]

$1500 to $2000 honestly doesn't give you much wiggle room here. Depending on your location, but machining and if needed, new pistons and rings, plus all the gaskets, etc. will put you here pretty quickly. If it were me I'd hold out a little longer if I could to increase the budget. As for modifications, we can't really give good advice without knowing more about your vehicle. But a reasonable bump in compression, matched with the right camshaft, intake, exhaust, and gearing will make for a pretty enjoyable street vehicle.

what are current modifications, gear ratios, etc. Is it a 4L60?

 

[Ccchatzzz]

so a buddy of mine just told me I should rebuild the engine and do intake manifold, exhaust, long tube headers, black bear tune and a mild cam…and possible mdfi. Any thoughts on this??

 

[Erik the Awful]

There's not a budget intake manifold upgrade for the Vortec motors, and the factory manifold can support 450 hp.

If you can weld, doing your own exhaust is a good, cheap upgrade. Probably the most bang for the buck. If you can't weld, the price jumps, but it's still worth doing.

A cam costs the same no matter how wild you want to get. The price only jumps when you have to upgrade everything else. The thing to watch out for is the most popular cams command a premium, and there's another manufacturer out there somewhere who will sell you similar specs for less. If you want a budget upgrade, put Elgin 1.6 rockers on your stock cam. Half the price of a new cam, and it'll give you the same specs as a "mild cam upgrade". If you upgrade your cam, absolutely replace your valvesprings. If you drop a valvespring, you trash your motor, and a bigger cam will stress your springs that are already broken and run with a smaller cam. BTDT.

The upgraded MPFIs recently jumped in price - I think I paid $250 for my Suburban's MPFI ten years ago. Now they're $400+. It's still worth it if the truck's worth it. The factory poppets are junk.

If you upgrade the cam, you'll need a tune. An in-person tune is better than a mail order tune.

 

[Ccchatzzz]

There's not a budget intake manifold upgrade for the Vortec motors, and the factory manifold can support 450 hp.

If you can weld, doing your own exhaust is a good, cheap upgrade. Probably the most bang for the buck. If you can't weld, the price jumps, but it's still worth doing.

A cam costs the same no matter how wild you want to get. The price only jumps when you have to upgrade everything else. The thing to watch out for is the most popular cams command a premium, and there's another manufacturer out there somewhere who will sell you similar specs for less. If you want a budget upgrade, put Elgin 1.6 rockers on your stock cam. Half the price of a new cam, and it'll give you the same specs as a "mild cam upgrade". If you upgrade your cam, absolutely replace your valvesprings. If you drop a valvespring, you trash your motor, and a bigger cam will stress your springs that are already broken and run with a smaller cam. BTDT.

The upgraded MPFIs recently jumped in price - I think I paid $250 for my Suburban's MPFI ten years ago. Now they're $400+. It's still worth it if the truck's worth it. The factory poppets are junk.

If you upgrade the cam, you'll need a tune. An in-person tune is better than a mail order tune.

Would you be able to suggest a cam and valve springs. And thank you. BTW