Rear axle seal job

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joe toto

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does anyone know of any kits/ parts list I can go off of for this job( 1997 tahoe 4wd). I'm 18 and decided I don't have the 400 to pay the shop for this job.
 

highwaystar

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does anyone know of any kits/ parts list I can go off of for this job( 1997 tahoe 4wd). I'm 18 and decided I don't have the 400 to pay the shop for this job.
For rear axle seals, after ya pull the axles out just use the end of the axle to pry out the seal then carefully hammer tap the new one in. Be sure to wipe a little grease around the new seal's lip before installing axles back in.
 

Schurkey

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Axle seal "Kit" = one axle seal, plus 3 pints of axle lube. and a tube of RTV silicone to seal the cover.

Deluxe axle seal "Kit" = two axle seals, plus 3 pints of axle lube and a tube of RTV silicone.

LOOK at the axle shaft(s). On most GM axle assemblies, they ride directly on the bearing. Any wear, and you need new shaft(s) and new bearing(s).
 

joe toto

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Let's start with this question: Where exactly is the oil leaking from? Then we can tackle what parts/tools you will need. I'm sorry, but your description of the problem is a little vague, please be more specific.
My bad, both seals on the ends of the axle are leaking into the drum breaks. The mechanic told me they are leaking pretty bad.
 

kennythewelder

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My bad, both seals on the ends of the axle are leaking into the drum breaks. The mechanic told me they are leaking pretty bad.
You will need to pull the brake drum, then the rear end cover to access the C clips so that you can pull the axels. I used a pry tool to remove the old seals. It can be a little hard to get the new seals to seat in place. A pipe , be it steel, or even PVC, about the same size as the outer lip of the seal and a hammer is all you need to install the new seals. There are a ton if videos on you tube about gm 8.5 10 bolt axel rebuilds. I just rebuilt my rear end about 2 months ago. I was supprised that it wasnt easer to set these seals in place. I tried just a hammer and tapping them in place but that didnt work. It took a piece of pipe to get the job done.
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east302

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Adding to Kenny’s post, most part stores will “rent” either a seal puller or slide hammer to get the old ones out. Around here, you pretty much buy the tool and they refund your money if you bring it back within a certain time.

Harbor freight also sells them.

Tip: check to see if the differential fill plug at the top comes out before you remove the cover bolts and drain the fluid. They like to strip at the head. Also mark each brake drum at a lug nut so you’ll know to put it back on at the same orientation.

It’s not a hard job.
 

kennythewelder

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LOL, to add to what east302 said, in 2012, my rear end started humming, so a friend of mine helped me work in it. I had cancer at the time ( cancer free since Jan of 2013). We changes all the bearings except the pinion bearings. We broke his harbor freight slide hammer pulling the axel shaft bearings. So if your going to replace the bearings too, just rent the one from AutoZone, or where ever. A few months ago, when I rebuilt my rear end, that's what I did. It worked grate. It pays to have the rite tool. If your just doing the seals, then you can get them out with a big screw driver.
 
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SUBURBAN5

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To add to everybody heres some pics for an idea.
X2 on renting tools. I bought my tools from amazon and the bearing puller barely worked and the seal driver worked great. So theres hit and miss with them. Renting at least it's free and you can return it if its wrong

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Also as a side tip. With the shoes off you can put a small chisel to the edge of the wheel seal and work it out slowly
 

90 Silverado

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Tip: if you dont have access to an axle bearing puller , you can make a home made one out of a piece of chain , a short piece of pipe and 2 bolts and nuts to make a primitive slide hammer.

Slip the pipe on the chain and put the bolts and nuts on each end , insert one end in behind the bearing , and slide the pipe back and forth to get the bearing out. Works in a pinch if you cant get a slide hammer.

Doug in P.R.:cool:
 
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