Oil Recommendations

[Spareparts]

He is talking older vortec years of engines.

 

[Schurkey]

Oil is now so "good" that pretty-much any motor oil is acceptable if the viscosity is appropriate.

Therefore, the "best" oil is...CLEAN oil.

The best way to keep oil clean is to add a "bypass" filter to the system, while keeping the full-flow OEM filter.

I have a soft-spot in my head for Frantz asp-wipe bypass filters, but there are other brands that use different filter media than a roll of toilet paper. Amsoil sells their brand of bypass filter, there are large-and-bulky "big Diesel" bypass filters, and there's at least one company still advertising brand-new Frantz filters...but I get mine used from eBay at reasonable cost.

The downsides to a bypass filter is that
1. You need to find some place to put the filter, and route the supply and return hoses, and
2. You need some way to return the filtered oil to the vehicle. It's easy to plumb the supply hose to bring pressurized oil to the filter by adding a brass "tee" to the oil-pressure sending unit port, but it's harder to get a presentable return hose to return the oil to the engine. Some folks return via a modified oil-fill cap; others poke a hole in the valve cover or oil pan and install some sort of return fitting.

 

[blackdeathmessenger]

I only use synthetic (at least, the bottle says it is) usually Valvoline, 5w-30 or 10w-30

 

[AuroraGirl]

Oil is now so "good" that pretty-much any motor oil is acceptable if the viscosity is appropriate.

Therefore, the "best" oil is...CLEAN oil.

The best way to keep oil clean is to add a "bypass" filter to the system, while keeping the full-flow OEM filter.

I have a soft-spot in my head for Frantz asp-wipe bypass filters, but there are other brands that use different filter media than a roll of toilet paper. Amsoil sells their brand of bypass filter, there are large-and-bulky "big Diesel" bypass filters, and there's at least one company still advertising brand-new Frantz filters...but I get mine used from eBay at reasonable cost.

The downsides to a bypass filter is that
1. You need to find some place to put the filter, and route the supply and return hoses, and
2. You need some way to return the filtered oil to the vehicle. It's easy to plumb the supply hose to bring pressurized oil to the filter by adding a brass "tee" to the oil-pressure sending unit port, but it's harder to get a presentable return hose to return the oil to the engine. Some folks return via a modified oil-fill cap; others poke a hole in the valve cover or oil pan and install some sort of return fitting.

can a SBC sandwich oil cooler adapter work for this? I dont know if the oil is diverted in enough flow/pressure for the bypass filter idea to function right, but I would think the lines are pre oil filter oil but I guess maybe its post filter too.. I havent looked into that. (GMT400 and squares with KC4 had that little adapter, but the trucks couldnt use the tall filter without it sticking past the oil pan to my understanding)

 

[Caman96]

Oil is now so "good" that pretty-much any motor oil is acceptable if the viscosity is appropriate.

Therefore, the "best" oil is...CLEAN oil.

^^^ Exactly. Super Tech EVERY 3000.

 

[Schurkey]

can a SBC sandwich oil cooler adapter work for this? I dont know if the oil is diverted in enough flow/pressure for the bypass filter idea to function right, but I would think the lines are pre oil filter oil but I guess maybe its post filter too.. I havent looked into that. (GMT400 and squares with KC4 had that little adapter, but the trucks couldnt use the tall filter without it sticking past the oil pan to my understanding)

No. The bypass filter has a restriction in the inlet, about .060. The sandwich cooler probably handles the full-flow of the regular oil filter. You'd starve the bearings connecting it to a bypass filter.

^^^ Exactly. Super Tech EVERY 3000.

Have the oil lab analyzed. You're PROBABLY changing oil 'n' filter WAY TOO OFTEN.

My Trailblazer goes 13K miles on an oil filter, topped-off when low, and 26K on an actual oil change. The TBI K1500 has historically gone 6K on oil changes, but with the new engine and the Frantz filter, I don't know any more. The K2500 has been neglected; I've not sent off an oil sample for analysis. I've had the thing about four years, but perhaps a thousand miles. I should dump the oil someday.

 

[Caman96]

Have the oil lab analyzed. You're PROBABLY changing oil 'n' filter WAY TOO OFTEN.

I do have it analyzed by Blackstone Laboratories’s.

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Like you said “the cleanest oil is the best”. You can’t say it’s too clean!
Do I spoil it? Yes.

 

[Orpedcrow]

I do have it analyzed by Blackstone Laboratories’s.

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Like you said “the cleanest oil is the best”. You can’t say it’s too clean!
Do I spoil it? Yes.

This reminds me that I bought an oil filter openerer and just changed mine. I should grab the filter out of the “proper disposal area” and check it for shiny stuff.

 

[GoToGuy]

Older specs in some ways are better for older motors. Consider when motors switched over from flat tappet cams or non-roller rockers. Manufacturers design new motors to the newest spec.

Nope, that would be the tail wagging the dog. Oil is refined to what manufacturers, engineers, builders specify for there designs and operation.

 

[GoToGuy]

Older specs in some ways are better for older motors. Consider when motors switched over from flat tappet cams or non-roller rockers. Manufacturers design new motors to the newest spec.

Bzzzzzz, nope oil is refined to what manufacturers specify.