No oil pressure after head gasket change???? Huh??

[PlayingWithTBI]

Lmfao wow....EPIC fail.... I dont have the distributor in front of me right now, but is that gear even removable without removing the pump drive blade?

The gear is held on with a roll pin, if you're careful, you can drive it out and pull the gear.

 

[Schurkey]

When you put the gear back on, the dimple in the gear aligns with the rotor tip.

Now im able to attach my impact wrench and the cowl wont be an issue at all either

For the record, there's no need for a drill. There's damn sure no need for an impact wrench to turn the thing. Your method is extremely likely to break the rotor.

This is my Pontiac priming tool. Chevy would be similar--but I don't have a photo. Spin the thing BY HAND in the direction of normal distributor rotation, about one or two revolutions per second. (about 80 RPM, but whatever you get will be fine.)

You should have oil pressure in less than a minute. Thirty seconds or even less is pretty typical. There is ZERO need to shoot oil from the rockers.

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[evilunclegrimace]

When you put the gear back on, the dimple in the gear aligns with the rotor tip.

For the record, there's no need for a drill. There's damn sure no need for an impact wrench to turn the thing. Your method is extremely likely to break the rotor.

This is my Pontiac priming tool. Chevy would be similar--but I don't have a photo. Spin the thing BY HAND in the direction of normal distributor rotation, about one or two revolutions per second. (about 80 RPM, but whatever you get will be fine.)

You should have oil pressure in less than a minute. Thirty seconds or even less is pretty typical. There is ZERO need to shoot oil from the rockers.

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While your tool is unique and most likely works using a drill on the priming tool like I posted a picture of has been the go to for over 40 years. Using an impact tool is asking for trouble.

 

[deve05]

When you put the gear back on, the dimple in the gear aligns with the rotor tip.

For the record, there's no need for a drill. There's damn sure no need for an impact wrench to turn the thing. Your method is extremely likely to break the rotor.

This is my Pontiac priming tool. Chevy would be similar--but I don't have a photo. Spin the thing BY HAND in the direction of normal distributor rotation, about one or two revolutions per second. (about 80 RPM, but whatever you get will be fine.)

You should have oil pressure in less than a minute. Thirty seconds or even less is pretty typical. There is ZERO need to shoot oil from the rockers.

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Wow, thanks for the great info. Now, just from the name of the tool I could've deduced that under regular circumstances there would be no need to get oil up to the heads, since it's just called an oil pump priming tool. However, taking into consideration that ive probably run this engine about 3 minutes with shut offs in between without any oil pressure, would you still say there is no need to get oil everywhere? I just dont want to spin a bearing or scar a cylinder wall....

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[evilunclegrimace]

Lmfao wow....EPIC fail.... I dont have the distributor in front of me right now, but is that gear even removable without removing the pump drive blade?

I have no problem going to pick up the autozone tool, my only thing is I'm doing this because I've already started and ran this engine with no oil pressure a couple of times and i want to actually prime it before trying again. According to this youtube video i found the autozone tool wont get oil up to the heads, and if its just oozing into the valley and back down, how can I be sure it's even going to the crankshaft and camshaft bearings?

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This guy is a **** wit, He does not have the valve covers off so he does not know if the top end is receiving oil. The lower piece of the priming tool directs the oil to the oil galleries which feed the cam bearings and lifters. The oil fills the lifter bodies and flows up the push rods to lubricate the rocker arms. The oil also flows from the cam bearings DOWN to the main bearings. Don't believe everything that is posted on You Tube as many people that post on there have no idea what they are talking about.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Wow, thanks for the great info. Now, just from the name of the tool I could've deduced that under regular circumstances there would be no need to get oil up to the heads, since it's just called an oil pump priming tool. However, taking into consideration that ive probably run this engine about 3 minutes with shut offs in between without any oil pressure, would you still say there is no need to get oil everywhere? I just dont want to spin a bearing or scar a cylinder wall....

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Wrong!!!! You most definitely need to have oil up to the cylinder heads

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Wow, thanks for the great info. Now, just from the name of the tool I could've deduced that under regular circumstances there would be no need to get oil up to the heads, since it's just called an oil pump priming tool. However, taking into consideration that ive probably run this engine about 3 minutes with shut offs in between without any oil pressure, would you still say there is no need to get oil everywhere? I just dont want to spin a bearing or scar a cylinder wall....

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk

Wrong!!!! You most definitely need to have oil up to the cylinder heads

 

[deve05]

This guy is a **** wit, He does not have the valve covers off so he does not know if the top end is receiving oil. The lower piece of the priming tool directs the oil to the oil galleries which feed the cam bearings and lifters. The oil fills the lifter bodies and flows up the push rods to lubricate the rocker arms. The oil also flows from the cam bearings DOWN to the main bearings. Don't believe everything that is posted on You Tube as many people that post on there have no idea what they are talking about.

Well I only looked it up after looking at the reviews on Autozone's own website. Most people mention the oil flowing out the top of the tool and NOT going to the heads at all. I looked up a youtube video just to get a better understanding of what all the fuss is about.

I sent the wife to get the tool, so I guess I'll find out if it gets oil to the heads or not. I do have my valve covers off still.

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[deve05]

Wrong!!!! You most definitely need to have oil up to the cylinder heads

That's what I thought bud, but Schurkey said that the tool could be turned by hand and that there was no need to get oil up to the heads. Which is why I was asking for clarification....

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[Schurkey]

While your tool is unique and most likely works using a drill on the priming tool like I posted a picture of has been the go to for over 40 years.

Guys have been burning-up cordless drill motors and cordless (rechargeable) drills for 40 years trying to over-prime their engines. If you're going to use a drill, use a 1/2" drill, running at most 200 RPM but probably less, and preferably a pneumatic (air) drill so there's no heat build-up. I've seen 3/8 drills geared for high speed/low torque, you're lucky if you don't set the damned thing on fire. Remember, you have plenty of oil pressure with a cold engine at CRANKING SPEED, and that's only about 160-ish RPM--and the oil pump turns half that fast.
1. Any engine with a SUBMERGED oil pump shouldn't need to be primed at all. IF (big IF) it was assembled properly, and moving parts were supplied with assembly lube as per industry standard practice.
2. Guys mistake "priming" for an extensive Quality Assurance program designed to locate oil system failures.
3. "Priming" takes about thirty seconds. Spraying oil over the fenders as it squirts out of the rocker arms can take HOURS. We hear stories on all the automotive forums I participate in, about guys priming for fifteen minutes, then turning the crank a quarter-turn, priming for another fifteen minutes, turn the crank, prime some more. They cook their drills, they waste an entire afternoon...and sometimes they STILL don't get oil out of the rocker arms. NONE OF THAT IS THE REASON TO PRIME THE OIL SYSTEM.

Wow, thanks for the great info. Now, just from the name of the tool I could've deduced that under regular circumstances there would be no need to get oil up to the heads, since it's just called an oil pump priming tool. However, taking into consideration that ive probably run this engine about 3 minutes with shut offs in between without any oil pressure, would you still say there is no need to get oil everywhere? I just dont want to spin a bearing or scar a cylinder wall...

Since we're using a priming tool to diagnose the oil system fault, the first thing is to determine if the oil pump is pumping oil. Prime the pump, and see if you get oil pressure at the oil pressure sensor. If the pump develops pressure, you're done with the priming tool, you'll be looking at the lifters and oil-gallery plugs next. If there's no oil pressure at the sending unit, and the oil level is good, the pan comes off.

That's what I thought bud, but Schurkey said that the tool could be turned by hand and that there was no need to get oil up to the heads. Which is why I was asking for clarification...

The engine needs oil to the rocker arms when running. A fresh engine may take a couple of minutes to warm the lifters and flush-out the factory-installed assembly lube/anti-rust preservative. The engine is likely not going to put oil to the rocker arms during the priming procedure.