No oil pressure after head gasket change???? Huh??

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deve05

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Hello everyone,

I really need some pointers with a situation I'm having and I dont know what else to check.

My truck is a 95 C1500 5.7 TBI Vin K, with the 4l60e. The truck has 167xxx miles on it and it blew a head gasket because the previous owner was a ****** and ran straight water in the cooling system and the truck had a severe rust and clogging issue. The radiator was so clogged that even with it being filled to the brim, you could pull the plug on it and not a single drop would come out.

One day on the highway it overheated really bad on me and it blew the head gasket.

I thought, okay whatever no problem I'll take this opportunity to give the truck a good going over. So i took off the heads and sent them to a machine shop and had them cleaned and inspected and I also had a valve job done on them. New valve stem seals were put in and the heads were sonic and maganaflux inspected for cracks.

Meanwhile I was at home making good use of the trucks downtime by changing the 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids on the trans valvebody for a shifting bump it was starting to develop, and I also changed the TCC while i was there. Put it back and added oil to the trans. I pressure washed the intake manifold myself and removed a lot of gunk and obstructed cooling passages and also cleaned out the EGR passages. I bought a complete upper gasket set and installed new head gaskets, then re-installed the heads and intake manifold and changed the radiator for a brand new one. My truck does have the engine oil cooler in the radiator. Everything was going smoothly, I've done this job over 10 times on different generations of small blocks from an 84 305 to a 99 5.3 and a 2011 ls3 6.2 and have never had an issue.

I finally have the engine all back together with the exception of the valve covers because I was going to run it and adjust any rattling valves. I had my distributor loose to get the timing set. I hit my start switch and after a small adjustment of the distributor the truck fired right up and only a couple of valves tapping a bit. I adjusted two really quick, but I had noticed something was off. From doing this job before I know it is messy. The oil usually squirts all over the place and some valves will even litterally look like they're taking a wee over the edge of the head....yet for some reason with the exception of maybe a little dripping the heads were still dry. When I go inside the cab to check the gauge the "check gauges" light is on and the oil pressure is at a whopping 0... I shut the truck off and immediately checked if i had forgotten to plug in the sending unit, but it was plugged in. I started the truck back up and now it picked up oil pressure for about 15 seconds, the oil started squirting everywhere in the heads like it was supposed to, and then the truck shut off probably because the timing went off since I hadn't tightened the distributor yet. I started the truck again and the oil pressure was dead again with no squirting in the heads. I shut it off because now I was sure the gauge was working.

I checked the oil cooler lines to see if i had kinked one by mistake and they were good. I disconnected the bottom line from the oil cooler and oil did not ooze out like it had when I first took it apart, so I'm assuming oil wasnt flowing there like it was supposed to. Now I was really confused, what the hell is going on?? I never removed the front cover so I didn't touch the oil pump or oil pressure regulator or anything like that.

I will say I did pressure wash the outside of the engine when it was back together to remove all the old grease and dirt buildup and i took care to cover any holes were water could get into the engine. Still, as a precaution I went out and bought oil and a filter and changed both just in case maybe some water had seeped in and the oil pickup tube was picking it up. The oil looked normal and I didn't see any water come out of the pan.

So I'm just wanting different thoughts on this.... What am I missing??? Did the oil pump just decide to fail while the truck was parked?? Is there a way to install head gaskets wrong and block oil flow??? My gaskets did not say top or front on them, so I just installed them with the two little peaks that go towards the intake manifold up and I quickly glanced over all the holes to check if they lines up. Does the oil cooled in these trucks need to be "primed" or something when its replaced??

Any thoughts or ideas on this are greatly appreciated, I don't know what else to check.

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skylark

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How much sludge was in the oil? If you got it really hot it could have melted a ton of sludge and be blocking the pick up.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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What about your intermediate rod and connector between the distributor and the oil pump?
 

Schurkey

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Oil pump intermediate shaft still in position? Little plastic retainer didn't break, and the intermediate shaft fall into the oil pan?

My '88 K1500 uses a giant sending unit for the dasboard oil pressure gauge just above the oil filter. I'm on my third or forth one. They fail often, the gauge reads too high...or two low...or varies from high to low for no apparent reason. Best I can tell, they're all made in the same factory, but boxed in multiple different colored-and-branded packaging and sold by...everyone. They have green paint on the end where the wire plugs in.
 

Schurkey

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Oh, yeah. There's no oil passages in the head gasket except the oil return holes. Therefore no issue with head gasket and oil pressure.

Any chance the distributor is turned too far to one direction or the other? Some distributor housings can block an oil passage if it's rotated too far away from OEM position. Seems to me this blocks oil flow to one bank of cylinders.

No oil pressure...oil pressure...no oil pressure. Maybe the oil pump pickup fell off.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Oil pump intermediate shaft still in position? Little plastic retainer didn't break, and the intermediate shaft fall into the oil pan?

My '88 K1500 uses a giant sending unit for the dasboard oil pressure gauge just above the oil filter. I'm on my third or forth one. They fail often, the gauge reads too high...or two low...or varies from high to low for no apparent reason. Best I can tell, they're all made in the same factory, but boxed in multiple different colored-and-branded packaging and sold by...everyone. They have green paint on the end where the wire plugs in.

The intermediate shaft cannot fall into the pan.
 

evilunclegrimace

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pick up one of these priming tools before you run the engine any more.

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andy396

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pick up one of these priming tools before you run the engine any more.

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I second this idea. It might not cause the oil to flow to the top of the head if the tool doesn’t seal well enough around the distributor hole, but it definitely should be enough to show 20+ psi on the gauge. On a tight engine it’ll get you to 40+ psi.
 

deve05

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I thank everyone for their responses, especially the guys that mentioned the distributor!! I've been working on nothing but LS based engines lately that have the oil pump in the front mounted on the crankshaft and my brain for some reason was set to that, and I completely skipped the thought that the oil pump in these old small blocks was distributor driven!! Lol

Like I mentioned the truck does run so the distributor must be partially in place.

Does anyone know if it is possible for the distributor helical gears to only be engaging enough to spin the distributor, but for the oil pump shaft to not be in place?

Because like I said the distributor is not fully clamped down since I still have to set timing, but i do have the retainer in place. Im thinking maybe the upper 25% of the helical gears are engaging but the oil pump shaft isn't and since I have the retainer on the distributor, the thrust from the helical isnt enough to push it up further to knock off the timing??? Anyone know if thats mechanically possible?? I will be checking in a couple hours.

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