New tools!

[Schurkey]

Cleaned-up, and with some plastic polish for the bezel, that'd be a lovely Man-Cave decoration...perhaps even a useful tool for voltage and medium-amperage loads. I get a kick out of the "green" areas on the meter face indicating proper charging voltage for both "6-volt" and "12-volt" systems.

The difference between "decoration" and "useful tool" will depend on the condition of the internal circuitry. If there are any electrolytic capacitors inside, they'll have to be replaced and then the unit will need calibration. This may/may not be too difficult. The unit is old enough that there'll be no micro-parts--everything inside will be big enough to see and examine.

If this were mine, I'd open it up and have a look around BEFORE connecting it to power. Electrolytic capacitors have a service life of about 20--25 years, AND they degrade when not connected to power for about a year, maybe two. That guy is way older than 25 years, and if it hasn't seen voltage for over a year, it could be in trouble.

There's a process for "re-forming" electrolytic caps that havent had voltage applied to them for a year or more, but given the age you might as well solder in new ones.

 

[someotherguy]

You can test those old caps pretty easily. Just hook that sucker up. The smoke will come out and let you know which ones are bad. Beware that sometimes they go off with a bang.

(KIDDING - DON'T HOOK IT UP)

Richard

 

[thegawd]

I need to figure out how to do that crap for real. I have an old 400W Peavy Tube Amp Head with crushed, like sucked in and twisted caps, huge ones that I need to replace.

I dont know anything really about electrical theory as we were aloud to copy and use the text books anytime in electronics. and so I never retaind the info. I took electronics every year and sometimes twice a year in high school. always got close to %100.

our teacher claimed it was because nobody besides him a few wizards could remember everything ahout electronics but you needed to know how to find the correct info.

well I can visually see problems and then can replace the problems. I can do that no problem. but if that doesn't work I'm screwed!

hahahaha

 

[someotherguy]

I need to figure out how to do that crap for real. I have an old 400W Peavy Tube Amp Head with crushed, like sucked in and twisted caps, huge ones that I need to replace.

I dont know anything really about electrical theory as we were aloud to copy and use the text books anytime in electronics. and so I never retaind the info. I took electronics every year and sometimes twice a year in high school. always got close to %100.

our teacher claimed it was because nobody besides him a few wizards could remember everything ahout electronics but you needed to know how to find the correct info.

well I can visually see problems and then can replace the problems. I can do that no problem. but if that doesn't work I'm screwed!

hahahaha

Soldering is pretty easy once you practice a little bit. Practice on absolute throw-away junk, instead of valuable items. I'm sure there are a bazillion youtube videos that can help you learn electronics soldering techniques.

Replacing electrolytic caps is pretty straightforward. There are a few different physical designs to note - the caps on your amp are likely going to be radial, or axial - and are likely polarized, though some can be non-polarized. Radial caps are the cylinder shape with both leads coming out of one end. Axial has a lead coming out of each end. There will be a negative mark on the wrapper indicating the polarity. Non-polar caps will be marked NP. If you hook up a polarized capacitor backwards, that ends badly. If the circuit board isn't marked, just take clear pics before removing each old one.

For replacement parts the new caps will likely be much smaller, physically, than the old ones - so don't be surprised. You should always match the uF (microfarad) rating of the cap you're replacing, but you can exceed the voltage rating without worry. A higher voltage rating is fine, lower is NOT. These are very general rules of thumb here but should cover your amplifier cap replacement job.

Richard

 

[thegawd]

Thanks Man! that's just about all the missing info I needed. I'm very good with a soldering iron and there is always one on my work bench ready to go.

the old tech vs new tech and size comparison I really had no idea about. the values I can match but I knew they wouldnt look the same. and I had no idea about the polarities of them but I clearly understand that now.

I would really like to get this 400w amp working as that's a real 400W and not rms. and if doing so I have a buddy with basically a warehouse full of old pro audio electronics and a Bazillion speakers! lol.

thanks again!

 

[Erin]

I have no experience with multimeters, much less this thing. I just plan on cleaning it up for decoration, for now. There’s a guy in town who can probably refurbish it to working condition if I choose that route.

 

[Erin]

After some research, this is part of an automotive tuneup set by Kal-Equip. There’s 3 other testers that I don’t have.

 

[df2x4]

Bought a can of Kroil tonight. That qualifies for this thread, right? It was expensive...

 

[97C1500TJ]

My handles finally loosened up and slid around on my Kleins. Got a nice set of Stahlwille screwdrivers with organizing trays and 1/4” set with locking extensions. I definitely recommend these locking extensions. They’re super helpful as I’m no longer dropping small 1/4” sockets into the Bermuda Triangle.

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[Frank Enstein]

Black Friday welder is here!

I understand why it's green as if I didn't envy it enough!