LS Cam newby

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Banshman

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All,
I have a 97 Tahoe, 2 door, 4x4, bolt on procharger kit. I'm putting in a 6.0 LS LQ4 with the matching 4l80. I wanted to do a cam swap with valve springs before install. What cam is good for some power without going overboard? Also what converter stall? Fuel injectors? Keep in mid the procharger will be going back on at some point.

Thanks
 
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While I do not have a specific cam suggestions, I can tell you that you will want a cam with less overlap than naturally aspirated camshafts. There are specific forced induction cams that will work very well in your application.

When looking for cams, you need to have a vision for how you want the personality of the vehicle to be. For your application I will assume that the Blazer is a daily driven with mild/moderate off roading. I would look at the operating ranges of the camshaft and pick something in the range of 800-5000rpm or 1000-6000rpm, the most important being the first number. A cam that begins making power at 2000/2500rpm will feel like a dog at cruising speeds without a higher stall.

On the issue of choosing a converter. I think the best converter for your application is the factory converter. The reason I say this is that there are disadvantages to raising the stall. The fuel economy will suffer, it will be annoying off roading, and from my experience they are not as pleasant daily driving especially with a heavy Blazer.

The injectors will be fine until the procharger goes back on of course it also depends how much power you will be making.

The short of it is stock converter/ cam with low operating range/ stock injectors.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Definately put a decent converter in it. My take on having had a 2,800 high STR converter in my Express van that I tow with for the past 3 years is all positive. My fuel mileage actually improved around town and stayed the same on the highway. When you are sitting in gear the engine has less load on it and the van has almost no tendency to creep forward when you take your foot off the brake. The higher str and stall speed also keep the engine from seeing as much load starting off from a stop which means it gets rolling more easily with less throttle. Once rolling I am in 2nd gear by 10-15 mph under very light throttle and the converter locks almost immediately after the 1-2 shift and stays locked all the way through the gears. If I am heavier on the throttle it holds the gears out progressively longer and locks up later. If I go WOT it locks the converter at about 4,000 rpm in 2nd gear and unlocks right before the upshift and relocks again after the 2-3 shift. This is not 1980 any longer. A decent converter drives like the stock converter until you put your foot into it. With the 4L80E or in my case 85E you can lock the converter in all gears except 1st or Reverse.

As far as injectors go. The stock gen 3 6.0L engines are running the injectors near maxed out on stock engines. In my experience even putting a cold air intake, headers and exhaust will max them out, much less a cam. L59 5.3 flex fuel injectors or 8.1 HO Marine injectors are both logical upgrades and necessary for a cam. The cammed 6.0L I have in the 87 G20 van has the 42 lb/hr 8.1 HO marine injectors and actually comes fairly close to maxing out themself. See about 87% duty cycle at 6,500 rpm.

My Pro4x Nissan Titan also had a converter that stalled about 2,500 rpm from the factory. Never felt it an issue at all off-road. In 4 wheel drive low it would pull the truck forward at 1,000-1,500 rpm with ease.

If I were building it the truck would have an Elgin E-1840P aka Sloppy Stage 2 cam and a 2,800 high str converter with a triple disc lockup clutch. That cam is easy to tune and easy on valve train parts as well as works well with or without forced induction.

I will also say a couple of years ago a friend of mine and I went through the LQ4 in his massive cutaway van with the tool box rear loaded down with a/c tools and parts that serves for his business. He does a/c contractor work and pulls a good size trailer. His LQ4 had dropped a valve sear. We sent the short block out for a stock rebuild, put bone stock 862 5.3 heads, with the springs changed and the E-1840P. Put a stock 4.3 converter in the 80E. Added a set of shorty headers and left the factory 3" dual piping off the manifolds. That 6.0L pulled like a freight train. The 4.3 converter stalls about 2,400 rpm behind a 6.0L and has a double stator that gives it a higher str.
 
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df2x4

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I was also going to suggest the Sloppy Stage 2 Elgin, but I have no personal experience with it. Seems to be a very popular choice for LS engines and there's a ton of base tunes available in the Sloppy Mechanics repository.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I was also going to suggest the Sloppy Stage 2 Elgin, but I have no personal experience with it. Seems to be a very popular choice for LS engines and there's a ton of base tunes available in the Sloppy Mechanics repository.
Its not the latest grind or the fastest ramps but it makes great power and sounds great doing it and lives for a long time on the street. Its easier on the lifter rollers and the valve springs.
 

RDF1

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All,
I have a 97 Tahoe, 2 door, 4x4, bolt on procharger kit. I'm putting in a 6.0 LS LQ4 with the matching 4l80. I wanted to do a cam swap with valve springs before install. What cam is good for some power without going overboard? Also what converter stall? Fuel injectors? Keep in mid the procharger will be going back on at some point.

Thanks


How many miles on the engine? 150k+? I'd put new lifters in to be safe if it's got 150k+ miles.

If it were me I'd go with a smallerish cam, something around a 212/218 560 ish lift on a 112 or 114 lsa. To help make the low end TQ and let the pro charger take care of the mid/top end power.
I ran a isky 215/215 .566"/.566" 114+3 in a LQ4 for 240k+ miles with a turbo and loved it. Towed great and idled great.
No more turbo on that engine. But put a 212/218 .561/.568 114 in it and it feels the same with a tad more low end.

Call circle d converters in Huston TX and tell them your setup and expectations. They have nailed all our setups perfect.

Injectors, call Fuel injector Connection in Georgia. Tell them your setup and they will fix you up.
8.1 marine injectors (44#) maxed out on my LQ4 with 5-6psi boost. I'd say Atleast 60# to be safe.


Fuel pump I'll find a link to at lunch. Put one in a 05 silverado with 5.3 cam/turbo and it supported 600 hp to the tire.





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Banshman

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sorry for the late response guys. I appreciate all the advice. The truck has 78K original mile, I bought the truck new and basically still looks new inside and out. I was planning to change the valve springs since ill be in there. As far as the fuel pump I have the stock one in the tank and the second one on the frame rail that came with the procharger kit. I'm not sure the size of that pump though. It is bigger than the stock one. I'm getting 50-60 psi on the fuel pressure. Could I get rid of the secondary pump and just go with a bigger pump in the tank?
 

RDF1

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sorry for the late response guys. I appreciate all the advice. The truck has 78K original mile, I bought the truck new and basically still looks new inside and out. I was planning to change the valve springs since ill be in there. As far as the fuel pump I have the stock one in the tank and the second one on the frame rail that came with the procharger kit. I'm not sure the size of that pump though. It is bigger than the stock one. I'm getting 50-60 psi on the fuel pressure. Could I get rid of the secondary pump and just go with a bigger pump in the tank?

Yea that's what I'd do.
I used this pump on a 05 silverado turbo 5.3 that put down mid 600s to the tire. It held pressure just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCFM4D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vK7DDbEYHFRXG



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