Looking For Info

[bobby v]

Good greif Eviluncle grimace, I wish I knew what the hell you were saying but unfortunately I'm in the dark on most of it I just don't know about all this stuff, I know, I know, I am trying but I don't know anyone in my town who knows this stuff either or Id be buying him a couple of brewskis for sure.
I can proababy do the code read thingy but after that Im lost and you sound like you know your stuff
Bobby V PS as soon as they let me start send PM's I ll be talking with you for sure !!!

Ok, checking the codes is easy enough. All you need is a paper clip and a pencil and paper. Look up the ALDL connector a so that you can identify the proper terminals and then all you have to do is jump the diagnostic terminal to ground and count the flashes on the CEL/SES light. Counting the flashes is easy the CEL/SES light will flash each code 3 times the, first code will be 12 A single flash followed by 2 flashes a( code 12 tells you that the ECM is able to enter the diagnostic mode) All other codes will be repeated 3 times and then they will repeat. When you get back to code 12 you will have all of the stored codes.


https://www.bing.com/images/search?...A3492453BA3DB1778FF1824854F0CF7B7&FORM=IQFRBA

After you record your codes you can set the Minimum Idle Air Rate. This easy enough. run the engine until it reaches normal operating temp. Shut the truck off. Then remove the air cleaner, ground ALDL terminals A&B with your paper clip, turn the key on but do not start the truck and look down the Idle air passage on the throttle body and verify that the Idle Air Control Solenoid (IACS) pintel is fully extended and seated. This is the round screw in solenoid on the driver side of the TBI with the square black 4 terminal plug on it. Then disconnect the IACS plug. Start the truck and set the MIAR to the specified RPM.

After this step set the Base Timing. On the Passenger side of the firewall there is a T shaped cover, remove it and find the single wire that is tan with a black stripe. It will have a connector,
separate the connector and set the Base timing ( zero degrees) You may have to adjust the distributor to get the timing correct. Re check the MIAR and then shut the truck off, remove the paper clip, reassemble the truck and clear the codes ( disconnect the battery for ten seconds, longer is fine) Reconnect the battery and start the truck.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

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[evilunclegrimace]

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[bobby v]

Thank you so much EUG I need to try that first one cause I think I can handle that, hopefully but I will have to use my inside tach.
Bobby V

 

[evilunclegrimace]

The truck's tach will be close enough for your needs. Take your time and double check your settings and you should be GTG.

 

[bobby v]

You know I forgot to mention and I think its important, at first start (every time) the idle is fine, right at about 750rpms but if I stick the pedal just a bit the idle goes up to about 1000rpms and doesnt want to come down, shut it off and restart and the rpms are at 750 ???? Over an over it does this, sound like anythig in particualr to you EUG.
The butterflies seem a little sticky when I use the engins throttle guy, right at first.
Bobb V

The truck's tach will be close enough for your needs. Take your time and double check your settings and you should be GTG.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Disconnect the throttle cable and make sure that it operates smoothly and easily. Cables can and do wear causing drivability problems, also open the throttle plates with the engine off and see if they feel like they are sticking. Give them a good visual inspection for damage ( unlikely but it is best to check). It is possible that the IAC is sticky and causing idle problems but that requires a scan tool for proper diagnosis.

Hit up Google for some diagnostic videos, watch more than one on the same subject as some of the presenters are better at getting the information across than others. As long as you pay attention to what you are doing and don't physically damage any parts you should not get in over your head. Take your time and don't rush.

 

[bobby v]

So EUG, I found disappointing news yesterday, as I watched one of your suggested videos I noticed the lights blinking in the upper right corner of the gauge pod, so not being a complete dummy I assume those were the check engine lights needed to detect codes on the wonderful OBD1 system So guess what, I don't have any lights there at start up or any other time. So that suggest someone removed the bulbs or worse yet did some backyard tinkering with the ECM system, great huh!!
So I guess i'' have to take that damn gauge cluster out and see if its a missing bulb or worse because then I will b completely lost, I'll advise
Bobby V
PS does the old OBD1 code readers have their own set of blinking lights to determine codes or do you have to always depend on the trucks CEL??

 

[Schurkey]

STOP using piece-of-crap "code readers" and connect a SCAN TOOL.

The data stream is more useful than the codes most of the time.

 

[94burbk1500]

STOP using piece-of-crap "code readers" and connect a SCAN TOOL.

The data stream is more useful than the codes most of the time.

Schurkey, I mean no offense by this, I know you know your stuff, and I'm sure you're a better mechanic than i am, but how much money do you think we all have at our disposal to throw at our 20+ year old trucks? Not everyone can get their hands on a scan tool that easily. Do you have a link for an inexpensive new tool that reads OBD-I?