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PlayingWithTBI

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Yes, the CEL can go out but there may be stored codes in the ECM and stay stored until so many starts (usually 30 - 50) after the issue is fixed. Try the A - B shorting trick to see for sure, or pull the negative battery cable to reset the MALF Codes.
 

bobby v

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Yes, the CEL can go out but there may be stored codes in the ECM and stay stored until so many starts (usually 30 - 50) after the issue is fixed. Try the A - B shorting trick to see for sure, or pull the negative battery cable to reset the MALF Codes.
Thanks TBI, I pulled the negative the other day to try that, but no help. If I do the A-B jumper what will happen, never tred it before so Im hesitant.
If it shows no codes then I'm SOL I guess, cause I don't know how to do all that other fancy stuff.
So far as I said Ive replaced all sensors, plugs, timing set at 10', fuel pressure good, checked for vacuum leaks, again to day in fact, turned key on and no drips out of the injectors, spray appttern looked good, equal, checked all screws and bolts for tightness, even ran a bottle of injector cleaner, RedLine I think, ???
Adjusted the idle screw, it idles at about 750rpms at start up but then after a little time driving it goes back up to about 1000rpms :bawl:
And it seems to be holding back after initial acceleration, its just not right so Im going nuts.
I love the little red POS but this is wearing on me :(
Bobby V
PS if I could find someone who knew their **** about these things im at the point where I say fix it and damn the cost, if U know what I mean
Oh BYW it has an after market air cleaner, big 4" Edelbrock instead of the OEM one, could it be getting TOO MUCH AIR causing this
 

PlayingWithTBI

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A photo of the air filter for you

Don't worry about too much air, most systems don't get enough air. As you can see from my avatar I have a similar air cleaner. The biggest drawback of these is "hot air" from the engine compartment. You may lose 5-10 potential HP.

If you have a code after disconnecting the battery then it's still an active fault. You need to address that 1st. Half the fun in this stuff is figuring it out and fixing it on your own while learning something new.
 

bobby v

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Oh my God, I am learning for sure from guys like you, so thanks.
I did notice today that the CEL when it comes on blinks once then stays on till it starts ??? Mean anything??
Bobby V
 

PlayingWithTBI

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No that's normal - the 1st blink means the ECM is working then it should stay lit until you start it. If it doesn't you'll fail emissions, if you have that in your area, I do in Maricopa County.
 

bobby v

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Nope no emissions here , yet anyways and Ill be 6 feet under by the time we do. I don't know what all is missing as far as emission parts, have a few plugs that are just laying around lol.
Ill try that code 12 thing 2 morrow, then if I feel brave Ill try and master that fault code list
Bobby V


No that's normal - the 1st blink means the ECM is working then it should stay lit until you start it. If it doesn't you'll fail emissions, if you have that in your area, I do in Maricopa County.
 

bobby v

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Well good news TBI , bad news I guess, the good is no codes except the #12 which is normal, so the bad news is whats worng with this truck ?
I talked with a knowledgeable guy yesterday and he thought the usual, vacuum leak, so I checked again, no leak detected, also checked injectors as told, no leaks from them and spray pattern looked equal, tightened all bolts and scrws also.:(
Bobby V
 

PlayingWithTBI

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The best thing to do is data log and/or scan and watch the different components while it's running. You'll drive yourself nuts (and broke) throwing parts at it not knowing if that's the cure.
 
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