I think my valve springs are shot or i got bent push rods.

[Hipster]

Well, you can, but it's not the right way to do it.

if you drop the dizzy in at another place where the trigger, the rotor, and cap are still lined up relative, then It may not cause issues, and it still not a situation where you drop it in where ever you like. Never said it always causes issues, and it looks like the op found evidence of spark scatter, so the distributor out of phase is likely part of the issue here. relutor wheels have eight points to get it right and a host of places you can put it to get it wrong. Msd sells caps with windows to look at this for a reason.

 

[92 Longbed]

Just to throw another possibility into the pile, my 92, 350, TBI w/ shorty headers, a TB spacer and the Edelbrock TBI cam was like this. It kinda crept up on me that it wouldn't rev to save its life. Also has the Flowmaster one in / two out exhaust. It would struggle to get to 4k RPM or so. Went through a lot of diag steps and finally checked exhaust back pressure. Holy cow. Nearly 20 psi in front of the factory converter at 3500 RPM when I stopped the test.
Replaced the converter with straight pipe and viola! Sounded better immediately when I started it. Took it for a ride and it was like I added 100 hp AND it would rev to 5k no sweat.
So, my suggestion is to check your exhaust back pressure on both sides of the converter and the muffler.

 

[Moleman]

if you drop the dizzy in at another place where the trigger, the rotor, and cap are still lined up relative, then It may not cause issues, and it still not a situation where you drop it in where ever you like. Never said it always causes issues, and it looks like the op found evidence of spark scatter, so the distributor out of phase is likely part of the issue here. relutor wheels have eight points to get it right and a host of places you can put it to get it wrong. Msd sells caps with windows to look at this for a reason.

So I bought a new distributor. This one has a tighter mech advance. I think it might be in the right postion now. Rotated the motor over till tdc.
And presto fired right on the first try.

Oil pump pushed on the gear and worn the gear bushing out. New distributor has a hardened steel bushing.

 

[Moleman]

Just to throw another possibility into the pile, my 92, 350, TBI w/ shorty headers, a TB spacer and the Edelbrock TBI cam was like this. It kinda crept up on me that it wouldn't rev to save its life. Also has the Flowmaster one in / two out exhaust. It would struggle to get to 4k RPM or so. Went through a lot of diag steps and finally checked exhaust back pressure. Holy cow. Nearly 20 psi in front of the factory converter at 3500 RPM when I stopped the test.
Replaced the converter with straight pipe and viola! Sounded better immediately when I started it. Took it for a ride and it was like I added 100 hp AND it would rev to 5k no sweat.
So, my suggestion is to check your exhaust back pressure on both sides of the converter and the muffler.

I don't got any of that anymore.hooker 2462 long tubes and just dual glass packs. They just dump right at the back of the cab on both sides

 

[Hipster]

So I bought a new distributor. This one has a tighter mech advance. I think it might be in the right postion now. Rotated the motor over till tdc.
And presto fired right on the first try.

Oil pump pushed on the gear and worn the gear bushing out. New distributor has a hardened steel bushing.

the positioning looks better too, so the question will it rev without spitting out the carb?

 

[Moleman]

Oh yeah at least in park it will rev too 6k no sputter. But that's no load. Took it around the back roads. Kept it at 35-40. I didn't rev it too high though.

I kept it below 2500. Luckily I got I vac gauge so I match my vaccum too my vac can. I finally decided to hook it up. Hooked it up to the ported side since it's a stock l31 roller cam.

It don't like the tcc lock up after it drops the rpm down to 1300 at 45.

I think that's everything I know so far. It does pull about 19 to 20 inches of vaccum at about 15-25 percent throttle.

 

[RichLo]

Thats great vacuum!

If you havent already, just set base timing with a real timing light and you should be good to go as far as the ignition is concerned. Hopefully your cam cover has a timing marker welded on?

 

[Moleman]

Thats great vacuum!

If you havent already, just set base timing with Notch. timing light and you should be good to go as far as the ignition is concerned. Hopefully your cam cover has a timing marker welded on?

It's still has the plastic timing cover with that single zero timing notch. I was told to run about 10-12 base timing. Then 30-32 overall timing at about 3000-3500 rpm.

I've noticed that it likes about 32 overall.
If I knew what the cam operation range was I could dial it in better for peak power.

I'd guess about idle to 4000.

 

[Moleman]

Changed up the location of the FPR got rid of those messed up metal lines.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'm not a fan of long runs of rubber fuel hose. NHRA only allows 12" of unbraided rubber hose, and even if you're not taking it to a strip, it's a very good rule to follow. "A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only". Steel braided hose and hard lines is the rule. I bought 25' of aluminum tubing, a pile of AN fittings, and steel braided hose to completely re-plumb my Jaguar. It cost a couple hundred dollars, but the peace of mind is worth it.