*fixed* 1990 rear brake line confusion

[89obsSB]

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This is what I used, don't have to worry about it rusting

I perfer the nicklecopper. Looks nice and shiny and bends beautifully without kinking. But copper works good too

 

[454cid]

I perfer the nicklecopper. Looks nice and shiny and bends beautifully without kinking. But copper works good too

Plain copper will work harden and break. It is not suitable for automotive brake use. Use NiCuFe, or use steel.

 

[454cid]

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This is what I used, don't have to worry about it rusting

I hope that's not plain copper from the plumbing dept.

 

[89obsSB]

Plain copper will work harden and break. It is not suitable for automotive brake use. Use NiCuFe, or use steel.

yea copper is not suitable. But will work. And NiCuFe is nicklecopper.

 

[mwilliams55555]

It's nickelcopper, not plumbing pipe lol

 

[Ju1cE]

Yeah I think I’m going to start a build thread abound unf**ken this truck…so much shenanigans. One of the rear lines (from hose to LR w/c) that was actually wrapped around the axle for some reason

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Have also ordered the nylon fuel line kit because that’s another mess

 

[Schurkey]

But copper works good too

I hope that's not plain copper from the plumbing dept.

Beat me to it.

yea copper is not suitable. But will work. And NiCuFe is nicklecopper.

Copper DOES NOT "work". Burst strength is low, work-hardening/cracking is high. Copper tubing for brakes or for fuel is illegal, and rightly so.

NiCopp, or other brands of copper/nickel alloy is a whole different animal.

 

[dmhscorpion]

When it comes to a decent double-flaring tool, the really cheap tools are
only good to test your patience. On the other hand, spending $$$ on a
pro shop setup is hard for me to justify on a 'price-per-use' basis.

Given this, if you are looking for a no-frills budget tool that has never
failed to work for me (especially with NiCopp) is the OTC 4503 Stinger.
(Amazon link here.) According to the sticker, made in Taiwan.

Doesn't feel cheap in the hand, gotten flawless results from it.

Don't delay -- get rid of the PO's hackery asap!

Safe travels --

I used this,

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with Nickle/Copper.
It worked very well.
The tool has a adjustable stop so all flares are the same ...

dmh

 

[Road Trip]

I used this,

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with Nickle/Copper.
It worked very well.
The tool has a adjustable stop so all flares are the same ...

dmh

Good to know, thanks for sharing! I've read about that exact tool &
wondered how it worked? It looks compact & might be worth having
if it fits in confined spaces?

By the way, I see that they include grease. Cool - I've used that
trick, & it definitely seems to help.

 

[Road Trip]

For anyone who's never had to worry about brake lines before now,
(or are also doing the Rip Van Road Trip and re-engaging the hobby)
here a brief history of brake lines, followed by a link to a good article.

* In the beginning, there was zinc-plated steel. Down in the arid
southwest, it was normally good for the life of the vehicle. In the
rust belt however, problems (blowouts) would develop after 5+
years of exposure to salt/sand/moisture. No doubt these brake
line blowouts contributed to the adoption of dual master cylinders
in the mid-60s. (!)

* By the '90s, a lot of manufacturers added a plastic coating to the
brake lines (usually green in color?) and this helped extend the
service life. Only problem was if the coating was scratched by
road debris then the exposed line acted as before.

* Enthusiasts who were tired of the brake line replacement game,
would upgrade to the stainless steel line. A little more to purchase,
but the real problem is that normal handheld double-flaring tools
weren't up to the task. Soooo, now you needed to add a $$$
hydraulic double-flaring tool to your arsenal.

* Meanwhile, over in Europe, several auto manufacturers
(including Volvo, Porsche, Audi, Aston Martin, among others)
moved to a Nickel/Copper alloy, with the strength of steel,
similar burst strength, yet easier to work with.

And best of all, this stuff corrodes even LESS than
stainless steel. It seems to be miracle stuff for all of us who
fill our eyes with bits of rust every time we're underneath
our machines. :0)

* Today, we can buy spools of NiCopp, and for all intents &
purposes, install a set of brake lines that will outlast the rest
of the vehicle. (!) As a matter of fact, when I blew a factory
brake line on my '02 CR-V last winter, I was able to jump
into my '99 C2500 & press because the PO had already
NiCopped the entire truck at some point in the past.

And I fixed the CR-V with NiCopp. Instead of barely
getting the double-flares I wanted with the older stuff,
with NiCopp it's just this side of pure pleasure.

Saving the best for last, I found this article answered
a lot of questions & concerns that I had about this
new-fangled stuff. Color me convinced.

Definitely get that brake line loop de do replaced asap.

And definitely do a build thread. You never know who
you will be helping by showing them how to un-hack
a truck & make it safer in the process.

Looking forward to the 'after' photos!