*fixed* 1990 rear brake line confusion

[GoToGuy]

Just because it looks like it work and it's tubing so why not use pure copper tube? Working hardening, Fractures when double flared, not rated for high pressures of braking, lack of tensile strength against road debris abuse. Need more? And if you ever get in vehicle collision,with another vehicle or other object, even without fault , you will be sued for the inadequate, dangerous repairs.

 

[swb charlie]

Plain copper will work harden and break. It is not suitable for automotive brake use. Use NiCuFe, or use steel.

this is what I was taught many years ago

 

[Schurkey]

Not a threaded bracket. A bracket on the frame holding the frame-end of the hose, with a nut and perhaps a star-washer.

I was pretty sure I had a photo of that...but if I do, I can't find it.

 

[Pinger]

Not a threaded bracket. A bracket on the frame holding the frame-end of the hose, with a nut and perhaps a star-washer.

Exactly that.

 

[Schurkey]

Not the same Russell set I bought for my '88 K1500. Guessing yours is a C-truck.

Beware the front hoses. On the K-trucks, they'll rub on the upper control arm, and the factory-applied rubber insulation is two--three inches too short to prevent wear.

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[Das Hatt]

I put the rear Russell braided hose on my 92 C1500 about two weeks ago.

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Unscrew the nut and slip it on the hard line, and then after you attach and tighten the fitting through the bracket, tighten the nut

(I had to bend my brake line bracket towards the front, because with the upper shock relocation mount it put the bracket too close to the shock)

 

[Schurkey]

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Appears that the hose has a twist in it. I would loosen the flare nut a half-turn, and loosen the nut clamping the hose to the bracket a half-turn or so, then untwist the hose. Hold the hose with a back-up wrench while you tighten the nut, then tighten the flare nut.

Those hoses don't take kindly to twisting. It's hard on the Teflon (PTFE) liner.

 

[Das Hatt]

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Appears that the hose has a twist in it. I would loosen the flare nut a half-turn, and loosen the nut clamping the hose to the bracket a half-turn or so, then untwist the hose. Hold the hose with a back-up wrench while you tighten the nut, then tighten the flare nut.

Those hoses don't take kindly to twisting. It's hard on the Teflon (PTFE) liner.

I'll try that. I admit i have had trouble keeping the line from twisting when tightening or loosening the flare nuts. One of the reason i ended up replacing the axle lines was because as i was disconnecting them from the wheel cylinder, the line would either break or twist 1 or 2 full rotations.

 

[Schurkey]

i have had trouble keeping the line from twisting when tightening or loosening the flare nuts.

Ideally, the hose is fully-clamped to the bracket before the flare nut is tightened. You may/may not partially-thread the flare nut into the hose. Getting the hose fully-clamped to the bracket probably requires two wrenches--one for the nut and one on the hose, underside of the bracket, to prevent the hose from twisting. (Back-up wrench)

One of the reason i ended up replacing the axle lines was because as i was disconnecting them from the wheel cylinder, the line would either break or twist 1 or 2 full rotations.

Yeah, that happens. The tubing out by the brake backing plates is often the first to rust, and it rusts to the flare nut so turning the nut winds-up the tube. I think road-splash is responsible for the rusting; and of course the small gap between the tube and flare-nut holds water.

Sometimes heating the flare nut and allowing it to cool breaks the rust bond. But the better plan is to replace the tube and flare nut, like you did.