Doing both rear U-joints tomorrow.

[tinfoil_hat]

Hey folks. Seems like this has been discussed but I did not find it in a search. I am doing both rear u-joints in my Sub tomorrow. Just looking for any tips. I bought the Spicer joints from Summit and a press from HF. Tonight I hosed everything down with PB Blaster so I am committed.
Couple of questions: The Spicer joints are non greasable but everything I have read suggests that they wont need service for a long time because of the grease seal. Anything I should be aware of when pulling the caps off or pressing them back on? Should I squirt some more grease in there to hold the needle bearings in place?

Next, I am familiar with the type that have outer lock rings. These have inner lock rings. Tips appreciated.

This part seems obvious but I don't get it. I need to pull the drive shaft. It's a single piece, no carrier bearing. I see how the diff side will be freed by removing the four bolts holding the bearing caps. How do I free the front end? Do I just pull the t-case output shaft right out of the t-case? Not sure how to get this end out of the truck. Am I supposed to press this u-joint out with the shaft in the truck?

I also see some fluid coming out of the t-case tail housing. Not a lot but worth noting. Can I replace this seal without majory surgery, or just top the case off and forget it for now?

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I have to do this very soon. I'll follow this thread

 

[deadbeat]

You loosen the shaft at the rear end, push it forward, lower it at the rear, then pull it out of the tranny. You will loose some fluid most likely but this is normal. Jack the rear up higher to minimize this. You better check to see if those u-joints have ever been changed, if not they have to be heated to remove the plastic internal retainer. You can tell they have never been changed if there is no internal or external clip on the old joints. That seal is easy to change while you have shaft out, make sure your yoke is nice and clean before putting a new one in, some fine emory cloth will make it good.

 

[tinfoil_hat]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. So am I going to dump all 12 quarts of tranny fluid out of my t-case when I pull that shaft out?

 

[kennythewelder]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. So am I going to dump all 12 quarts of tranny fluid out of my t-case when I pull that shaft out?

No you will only loose a little, but, I stuff a rag in the T case, or trans, to min loss of fluid, and keep the mess to a min.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. So am I going to dump all 12 quarts of tranny fluid out of my t-case when I pull that shaft out?

No, there is a seal between the T case and trany so you will only lose what fluid is in the extension housing. A plastic drink cup works as a drip preventer. And while you have the shaft out now is the time to change the seal if it has some time/age on it

 

[tinfoil_hat]

Ok. Got all the u-joints swapped over. Thought about plugging the driveshaft back in so that I could drive it tomorrow. Shoot. You guys are right. I am going to do the output shaft seal. So I won't finish tonight. Oh well.
Total time into it was about two hours. I could probably cut that in half if I had to do it again.

I will tell you right now that having a press and an impact gun made this easy. I got the HF one for $89. Worked great.

Oh, and my joints were worse than I thought. Three of the caps in front had grease. Fourth looked dry. Three in the rear had grease. Fourth was not only bone dry, it was full of orange dust. Not one single needle bearing remained. This all started with a "ping" sound when going into reverse only. That was a year ago. About two weeks ago I was hearing a "chirp-chirp-chirp" when pulling away from stop signs.

I will also tell you that Rock had the best price on the joints but I could not wait. Second best price was Summit. The other box stores only had the generic ones. I went with the Spicer/Dana 57995X. Looks like the front shaft uses the same part so I will do those two before winter.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

What press do you have?

 

[tinfoil_hat]

What press do you have?

This is the press. The quality is decent as HF tools go. I plan to use it again for ball joints. Alternatively, you can rent a similar tool from your local parts store. I think Oreilly charges $135 and then gives you a full refund if you return it within 48 hours.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I usually use a "C" clamp.