Doing both rear U-joints tomorrow.

[TheAutumnWind]

This is the press. The quality is decent as HF tools go. I plan to use it again for ball joints. Alternatively, you can rent a similar tool from your local parts store. I think Oreilly charges $135 and then gives you a full refund if you return it within 48 hours.

Ah one of those presses. I was thinking a floorstanding press or something. Yeah my local autoparts store rents those out.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I usually use a "C" clamp.

Yeah Ive got a nice big c clamp

 

[tinfoil_hat]

Ah one of those presses. I was thinking a floorstanding press or something

That would be slick but that's way outta my budget.

 

[deadbeat]

I usually cut the center out with a torch and drive the caps in to remove them, then take a small hammer and brass rod and put them all back together. I have a 20 ton press but if everything isn't just right you bend/break things.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I usually cut the center out with a torch and drive the caps in to remove them

Don't you love the grease fires?

 

[delta_p]

This is the press. The quality is decent as HF tools go. I plan to use it again for ball joints. Alternatively, you can rent a similar tool from your local parts store. I think Oreilly charges $135 and then gives you a full refund if you return it within 48 hours.

That's what i used on mine. After melting out the factory retainers I still had to crank it pretty hard and the rest of the retainer finally sheared. But I also have one of those factory u-joint tools to press on the Ujoint shoulders which also makes it very easy to transfer the press load and not driving on the caps. Got lucky getting that tool as someones throw away item.

 

[deadbeat]

Don't you love the grease fires?

Don't have too many of them, most are rusted and grease is a thing of the past for them.

 

[Supercharged111]

I just use a BFH. Now would be an excellent time to drain and refill the t case fluid that is probably original.

 

[tinfoil_hat]

T-case fluid will have to wait but it is definately on my to-do list. I am going to do the front two u-joints along with t-case and front axle fluid.

I would tell anyone thinking about doing this project to just go ahead and do the t-case or trans output seal. It was $15 and took all of three minutes.

 

[TechNova]

The C clamp style press mounted in a vise is the easiest way to change the U joint. Use a lot of lube on the threads of the press or they will gall, especially cheapo presses. I would inspect the thread and run them full in and out before leaving the store with a rental.
I also have a hydraulic Cclamp style but prefer the manual thread with an impact.
H frame presses work but is harder and can have too much power if you are not careful.
I do not heat them, a good press will press the joint out with the plastic in it.
The critical part is to keep the needles in place, a little harder to do when hammering them in.