DirtridinZ71 Budget SAS Build

[ChrisAU]

Good to know.

 

[outalne94z71]

Checked the new lower balljoints compared to the factory ones and you can easily see the difference in height, this causes the upper not to tighten. So this week I will have to go and exchange them for the lifetime warrenty one which are Raybestos brand which seems to be supplied by spicer from what I have found.

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On the plus side made $250 off the old Jimmy for a bunch of parts from the cab.

the height is not the problem,you need to adjust the sleeve in the upper to get it to seat and tighten and set preload, its a special 4 prong tool

 

[dirtridinz71]

the height is not the problem,you need to adjust the sleeve in the upper to get it to seat and tighten and set preload, its a special 4 prong tool

I can adjust the sleve (made own tool from a 3/4" socket) in the upper all the way down the 'c' and it jsut doesnt tighten up. Just seems like the taper is too soon on the bottom balljoint not letting the upper get up far enough, also I cant get a full nut on the lower either, tried few different times thinking it wasnt seating in the C right. If you watch the video posted I am having the exact same problem (minus not hitting the axle shafts since they are not in).

 

[dirtridinz71]

Today I got all the axle shafts apart and ready for new u-joints with the ford inners and gm outers. Short list of things to get done next is:
Balljoints installed
Axle shaft U-joints installed
Overloads removed from springs
Buy spring shackles

Longer run list:
Stud kit for knuckle
Superlift pitman arm
Get TRE's and DOM for steering
Gears and carrier install

Undecided if i should gear the axle first or try to get it under the truck first and regear afterwards?

 

[the big blue bus]

for steering i was going to get the kit from wfo. 240 for draglink and tierod kit. thats all the ends dom and tube inserts you need

 

[outalne94z71]

for steering i was going to get the kit from wfo. 240 for draglink and tierod kit. thats all the ends dom and tube inserts you need

arms too?

i paid $120 for 6ft of dom and inserts with 2 heim joints, which was enough for a track bar and drag link, then gm 73-87 drag link rod ends were about $25 ea

 

[outalne94z71]

I can adjust the sleve (made own tool from a 3/4" socket) in the upper all the way down the 'c' and it jsut doesnt tighten up. Just seems like the taper is too soon on the bottom balljoint not letting the upper get up far enough, also I cant get a full nut on the lower either, tried few different times thinking it wasnt seating in the C right. If you watch the video posted I am having the exact same problem (minus not hitting the axle shafts since they are not in).

if you cannot even get a nut on the lower then the taper itself is wrong all together

 

[TIM GAINOUS]

i am an overassuming idiot. i forgot to mention the spacers/ preload adjusters. the good bj's come with them. the tool can be bought from 15 to 40 dollars depending on where you choose. i been messing with these old 44's since they werent "old 44's" lol i reckon dementia is next. lol

 

[the big blue bus]

arms too?

i paid $120 for 6ft of dom and inserts with 2 heim joints, which was enough for a track bar and drag link, then gm 73-87 drag link rod ends were about $25 ea

just the dom for the drag link and tie rod. the tube inserts jam nuts and tie rod ends and drank link ends. cant seem to come up with any cheaper way

 

[TIM GAINOUS]

i used stock tie rod (side to side) took a pair of es2027l/ es2027r stock oobs drag link ends with 2 es362s sleeves. welded the appropriate length of 7/8 cold roll steel in the middle. had about $ 60 in it. im running 5-6 inch lift.