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Okay. I was thinking of them as a cheaper route to shorten the driveshaft lol but there’s no way like the right wayThose plates are for recentering the axle after a shackle flip. A stock spring won't move it too much, but if have lifted springs then it can move a decent amount. Those plates only move the axle up to 1.5".
Second reply to another question. Let’s say I choose the 47in spring kit what would be my minimum height to go down to 35s and look good. I have my 3in body, so do you think a 3in kit with 0in lift springs would be enough? It’s kinda funny that I spent a lot to sit tall on 40s and 14 wides to wanna go back to 35s and a practical lift size.Suspension depends on what you are using the truck for. 47s are stiffer but have a lot better on road manners. 52s will ride great but produce a lot of body roll and movement unless you want to add a sway bar. Neither set up will really compare to IFS. When my truck was my daily, the 47s were great on road. Now that it’s a trail rig, I wish I would have went 52s. I compromised with a sent of ORD custom 47s that I’m happy with. With your lift height, I’d consider 47s.
Driveshaft will have to be shortened a little due to the bigger pumpkin. Keep the 1350 joints and yolk from the 14b. You can do a conversion joint if you want to 1310/1350. Swap the yolk from a strap style to a u-bolt style.
I’ll like your front grill too, pretty unique man!
Both look really great. To get a 4in lift with 47in springs that would be like buying the stock spring with a 1in block? Or is it a bad idea for any kind of block to be on your front axle? Does it ride good with one leaf out the pack?3” body n 3” suspension would clear 35s. I forgot to post pics lol, joys of going to bed at 6 to get up at 1…..1st pic is one of trucks now, this is roughly 3” lift SAS. Stock 47” springs, one leave removed. 2nd is 4” 47s, ORU kit. 36” swampers.You must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attach
What would think of me going with the 5in kit that uses 2in springs and ord 3inches in the brackets?I haven’t really driven it yet, just in/out of the garage n driveway. Zero exhaust so don’t run it long. But first was ungodly stiff. Stock HD pack with 4 leaves. Took 2 out but sagged too much. Now has 3 leaves n seems to be ok. To get 4” with stock springs could use a zero rate that ORD has. It’s similar to the offset plates you listed but are 1” thick n bolt to the spring so can’t go anywhere. I might go that route depending how it sits. Right now the axle is too far forward, the tire is only couple inches from hitting bumper. I have the offset plates but need to get different bolts cause won’t go thru spring
The smaller the tire, the less cutting and trimming. Also a lower center of gravity. I started with 37s but decided to go to 40s as my rig and driving style progressed. If I was to have a daily driver or a fun weekend toy, I’d do 35s. That D60 and 14b will handle anything you do on 35s.Thanks man for your input. It’s been a lot to think about to picture in my head. Lately I been leaning towards the 47s and I’m not gonna stay at my current heights. I been really liking the idea going down to 35s-37s from the 40s and a more functional look. So with the bigger 14 bolt bigger than the 10 bolt there’s not enough room for the rear slip Yoke to slide in to the transfer case? And Tindust grilles been awesome company to work with.