Cranks but won't start.

[DeCaff2007]

So, found the issue with no gears. I had the transfer case in Neutral. I think the anxiety of getting this POS broken in and maybe hopefully a DD one day is making me miss small problems.

Started it up, threw it in reverse, and continued the break-in right there in my driveway. WAY less stressful when I don't have to worry about smoke and fire in my garage. The engine was approaching operating temperature and I could hear a ticking/ratting the whole time. Then it started missing and became more difficult to maintain the 2500 rpm. NOT THIS AGAIN!!!!

TOO EFFING BAD. Unless there's a fire, the break-in continues. No fire at all this time, but the ticking became a louder ticking, which then became a flat out CLACK, CLACK, CLACK, etc....

Still no fire, and with just 3 minutes left to go on the break in, it felt like I was doing more damage than good. At this point, the PASSENGER side was starting to smoke. Sigh.... turned the key off to investigate.

GOD EFFING DAMMIT, I burned through another spark wire!@#$. This time on Cyl #8. Aluminum foil and zip ties do NOT protect from header heat as well as fiberglass heat shields. The frikken spark plug boot was all melted up against the header. I should have just waited for other heat shields to come in, or taken the header off and dented that pipe enough that the spark wire isn't so close.

So now that the engine temp is at about 220°, let's see if it'll start while hot. NOPE!

Back to the drawing board

 

[DeCaff2007]

So, lol, I guess everyone is done replying to this thread, too.

For the amount of time and money I've wasted on this heap, I'm about ready to admit defeat.

Here's the latest. Damn thing won't start, period. Had to jumper the oil pressure sender connector to get it to fire. It BARELY ran and there was popping coming from the TBI.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M DOING WRONG.

Oh and btw, @Schurkey, I picked up one of those "calibrated HEI" spark testers. How exactly is that thing used? Hook a wire up to it, clip it to ground - WHERE should I see spark? Inside the tester? From the tester to ground?

 

[Schurkey]

Oh and btw, @Schurkey, I picked up one of those "calibrated HEI" spark testers. How exactly is that thing used? Hook a wire up to it, clip it to ground - WHERE should I see spark? Inside the tester? From the tester to ground?

Link to the tester you bought? Photo?

If it was one of these, it'd be obvious.
www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[DeCaff2007]

Wow... double frownies and I'm triple posting on my own thread.

If you all have given up, then so have I.

So now what? I'll never recoup the money or the time. It doesn't run so I guess that means I've learned nothing and accomplished even less.

But then, the definition of failure is repeating the same action, expecting a different result.

Maybe one day one of these reality TV shows will come by and take it off my hands.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Link to the tester you bought? Photo?

If it was one of these, it'd be obvious.
www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

It's that exact one.

I replaced that brand spanking new wire that melted against the header with a "used" wire (my T/A is running out of wires) and connected that tester. Clipped it to the A/C bracket and cranked it while the Wife watched. She said she can see the tiniest little white spark.

Still don't know what I'm doing wrong. I got it to start, BARELY, and it idled rough, and there is a rhythmic popping coming from the TBI.

Lying, spying google and left-wing youtube both lean towards spark and/or valve problems (I'm sorry, it was a last resort action in a panicked state of mind) . I don't get it. One minute, I had a silky smooth idle and a strong WOT (2500 rpm), shut it down because #7 was glowing red, then these problems started the instant I fired it back up.

 

[Schurkey]

It's that exact one.

The spark should be visible--and audible--jumping from the center electrode to the shell of the "spark plug body".

HEI style on left, has recessed center electrode for longer spark gap. "Points" style on right.

You must be registered for see images attach

When it's me, I connect the plug wire to the tester, then ground the tester on some convenient chunk of iron, angled so I can see the firing end from the driver's seat as I crank the engine looking for spark.

I replaced that brand spanking new wire that melted against the header with a "used" wire (my T/A is running out of wires) and connected that tester. Clipped it to the A/C bracket and cranked it while the Wife watched. She said she can see the tiniest little white spark.

Face the tester so YOU can see it. If the spark jumps that gap, you'd be likely to hear it also. SNAP! SNAP! SNAP!

Perhaps the tester's porcelain is dirty, and the contamination is creating a "fouled" condition. Maybe spray the firing end with aerosol carb cleaner, and blow it dry before using it again. (I've never had this problem, but I'm grasping at straws here.)

Still don't know what I'm doing wrong. I got it to start, BARELY, and it idled rough, and there is a rhythmic popping coming from the TBI.

Keep looking for more damaged plug wires. You know the engine runs good when all the wires are new.

Verify ignition timing. You had previous problems where the timing changed on you. I question the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt.

Lying, spying google and left-wing youtube both lean towards spark and/or valve problems (I'm sorry, it was a last resort action in a panicked state of mind) . I don't get it. One minute, I had a silky smooth idle and a strong WOT (2500 rpm), shut it down because #7 was glowing red, then these problems started the instant I fired it back up.

Of course they did. You burnt at least one but probably more than one plug wires. FIX THE PLUG WIRES.


I still have suspicions that your lifter preload is incorrect. Can't even say why I think that. Superstition, maybe.

If one header tube is glowing, find out what is different on that cylinder from all the others. Wild Guess: There's a vacuum nipple on that runner that's drawing air, that cylinder runs lean, and the header tube overheats. But it could also be a failed intake gasket leaking air, or--maybe--a TBI base gasket but that would tend to make several cylinders run kinda lean, rather than one cylinder running exceedingly lean.

 

[WICruiser-97]

I have read a lot of posts about headers being a really bad idea in general in part because the flanges warp and then leak. However, the other problem is that they tend to make it hard to get spark plug wires to the plugs without the melting problems that you have experienced. It seems like you have other issues but going back to the standard iron manifolds may allow standard spark plug wire routing to avoid th emelt downs.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I have read a lot of posts about headers being a really bad idea in general in part because the flanges warp and then leak. However, the other problem is that they tend to make it hard to get spark plug wires to the plugs without the melting problems that you have experienced. It seems like you have other issues but going back to the standard iron manifolds may allow standard spark plug wire routing to avoid th emelt downs.

I've been seriously considering that. If I do go that route, I'll have to throw the stock heads on again, due to the aluminum heads being angled plug. I don't know if the stock manifolds will work with angled plugs. With my luck, they won't.

 

[tayto]

could call holley and ask about these:

Hooker 8525HKR Hooker Small Block Chevrolet Exhaust Manifolds

Hooker's new cast iron small-block Chevy exhaust manifolds offer an increase in performance and visual appearance over stock-style manifolds. Their compact design fit into a wide variety of replacement and engine swap applications. This means you get the traditional look and easy fitment of a...

www.holley.com

 

[DeCaff2007]

I ordered yet another set of wires. I also have the other half of the heat shields on the way.

Went ahead and ordered another oil pressure sender, as I believe my current one went bad already.

I'll look into those manifolds. Maybe they fit the angled plug heads, too