Comp Cams 268H and 1.6 rockers

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Hipster

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My cam is on Magnum high lift lobes.
Comp 270, rhoades liters , and 1.6's was a good street set up back in the day. I truly believe on some of these "modern" grinds they've pushed rate of lift into what was once roller only territory at the expense of valvetrain stability. A catch-22. A nice 3 angle and bowl cut will get back the difference. The right high quality/custom stall torque converter will make a bigger difference than the difference in ponies.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Comp 270, rhoades liters , and 1.6's was a good street set up back in the day. I truly believe on some of these "modern" grinds they've pushed rate of lift into what was once roller only territory at the expense of valvetrain stability. A catch-22. A nice 3 angle and bowl cut will get back the difference. The right high quality/custom stall torque converter will make a bigger difference than the difference in ponies.
Correctly sized headers and an exhaust system that scavenges correctly will make more of a difference than the camshaft lobe profile as well. Tri-Ys added nearly 50 ft/lbs of torque in some areas to my 350, reusing the stock GM 3" dual pipes to the muffler. The OEM cats had already been replaced with high flow cats and I had a dual 3" in/single 4" out muffler.
 

Hipster

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Correctly sized headers and an exhaust system that scavenges correctly will make more of a difference than the camshaft lobe profile as well. Tri-Ys added nearly 50 ft/lbs of torque in some areas to my 350, reusing the stock GM 3" dual pipes to the muffler. The OEM cats had already been replaced with high flow cats and I had a dual 3" in/single 4" out muffler.
Totally agree with tri-y's producing the best torque. Best thing short of the crazy contraption cross over headers that time exhaust pulses from both banks together.

Too many get hung up on a hp number, for the street I always focused on the torque numbers and let the hp fall where it may.
 
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98chevy2500SS

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So if I’m understanding correctly, it would be easier (and possibly better) to run a whole Vortec engine? I’ve got one that’s nearly done being refreshed, so it would be nothing to continue the refreshing. I’ve seen people recommend the GM LT4 Hot Cam for the Vortec blocks? Does it have a slight lope to it like the Comp 268H? (12-210-2)
 

Erik the Awful

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That begs the question then, why are milder cams failing, because apparently that's an issue as well. Uncle Tony just did a video yesterday where he references the video above and says to check every cam and lifter before installation.

I'm inclined to believe that there's a shortage of people technically competent enough to do a thorough QA analysis, and there's a shortage of upper management willing to accept that good QA is necessary for long term profitability. People are too willing to buy eBay cams and the manufacturers are trying to compete. On the flip side, when talking about performance products other than cams, companies like Professional Products and Assault Racing are giving 95% of the performance for 1/2 the price, partly by a lack of robust QA. Capitalism. The market is currently in turmoil and at some point we'll find which manufacturer still makes reliable flat tappet cams.

Full disclosure - I have a $50 flat tappet cam in one of my engines, but having learned so much in the last year, I plan on sticking with name brand rollers in the future.
 

L31MaxExpress

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So if I’m understanding correctly, it would be easier (and possibly better) to run a whole Vortec engine? I’ve got one that’s nearly done being refreshed, so it would be nothing to continue the refreshing. I’ve seen people recommend the GM LT4 Hot Cam for the Vortec blocks? Does it have a slight lope to it like the Comp 268H? (12-210-2)
I would use the whole Vortec, injection and all unless you are going carb or aftermarket injection. The stuff to tune OEM TBI or nearly any OBD1 GM has become nearly non existant. With the Vortec you can use an 0411 and have an easy to tune platform using easily obtainable parts.

GM LT4 Hotcam or the Lunati BareBones equivalent both run well. If it is the GM one, advance it from the drop in 109/115 centerlines to 107/117 centerline. Works better in the lower compression Vortec that way.

 
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L31MaxExpress

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That begs the question then, why are milder cams failing, because apparently that's an issue as well. Uncle Tony just did a video yesterday where he references the video above and says to check every cam and lifter before installation.

I'm inclined to believe that there's a shortage of people technically competent enough to do a thorough QA analysis, and there's a shortage of upper management willing to accept that good QA is necessary for long term profitability. People are too willing to buy eBay cams and the manufacturers are trying to compete. On the flip side, when talking about performance products other than cams, companies like Professional Products and Assault Racing are giving 95% of the performance for 1/2 the price, partly by a lack of robust QA. Capitalism. The market is currently in turmoil and at some point we'll find which manufacturer still makes reliable flat tappet cams.

Full disclosure - I have a $50 flat tappet cam in one of my engines, but having learned so much in the last year, I plan on sticking with name brand rollers in the future.
The Assault racing heads I bought pre-covid, ported by Lloyd make awesome power even with a small cam. Casting and machine work quality on them is easily better than GM LT1, LT4, ZZ4 or FastBurns at a fraction of the cost that GM sold those for new.
 

L31MaxExpress

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That being said, the quality of cam cores is terrible.

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Erik the Awful

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Sorry for the hijack.
So if I’m understanding correctly, it would be easier (and possibly better) to run a whole Vortec engine?
I put Vortec heads on a TBI block and ended up switching to a Holley Sniper because the TBI couldn't handle a big cam and I didn't want to learn how to get the Vortec injection running in a TBI truck. It depends on what you're comfortable with or whether you want to spend the time learning something new.

I’ve seen people recommend the GM LT4 Hot Cam for the Vortec blocks?
Not for $600 I wouldn't. If it were priced better it would be worth it, but there are quality roller cams for $300.
 

L31MaxExpress

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This Clay Smith grind would set him back $400 and IMO stomp a Hotcam into the mud in performance. I am not a fan of these long split duration grinds now that I have run less split.

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