Busted Fuel Line

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adray96

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So, my 96 K1500 had a fuel line that had a small leak on it right near the gas tank, I was told it should be fine for the winter, and it was something I was saving up to fix. Well, pulling into the driveway, the line started dumping fuel, obviously needing to be fixed right away.

I don't have time or a place to work on it, since I'm in school, work, and it's 20 degrees out. I was wondering if anyone paid to have it done before. I work at a Chevy dealership as a lube tech, and asked a service writer for an estimate when I first found out about the leaks. He's had a couple of these trucks, he smirked and told me that I'm not going to like the price. He didn't actually look it up, but he told be it'd be about 10 hours of labor, and probably at least a grand. Does that sound accurate to anyone?


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michael hurd

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Depends how rusty the truck is, and if you need a sending unit, or repair the sending unit in addition to any hard line and filter.

For a bit over $ 200 you can get a complete kit with a new tank, sending unit with pump and straps ( kit from Rockauto )

As far as the lines go, if it is rusty, chances are you will twist off the steel pipes in the sending unit.

Fineline sells lines from the tank to the filter, average price is around $ 100:

std cab short box kit is FL400Q
ext cab short box kit is FL400W
ext cab long box kit is FL400M

As far as labor, it shouldn't be more than a few hours to fix a fuel leak, provided you don't have to drop the tank and change the sending unit. Rusted to death = you pay more.

The aftermarket Dorman fuel tank strap bolt and clip set is a POS, use a dealer supplied bolt and clip set for the straps.
 

adray96

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Whoops, didn't even think about specifying the body style. It is a extended cab short bed.

The fuel pump will probably be replaced as well. I don't want to spend the money, but it's the smart thing to do while they're in there.

Is there anything I can do as a quick, short term fix? It'd just be for the ten minutes drive to work to drop it off.



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michael hurd

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Without seeing where and what the problem is, it would be hard to effect a temporary repair. If it is the pressure side, you need to contend with 60 PSI.

Not as much pressure on the return side, you might be able to put a piece of hose over it, but you may also make it worse.

If it's a 10 minute drive, I wouldn't want to drive it, you might dump the entire contents of the fuel tank in that trip. Best to tow it there.
 

adray96

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I was afraid that would be the case. I love this truck, but after the coolant leak, this is strike two, haha


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superdave

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I was afraid that would be the case. I love this truck, but after the coolant leak, this is strike two, haha

Don't be too hard on a failed 20 year old, neglected, metal part, under a truck, in the rust belt.
 

adray96

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I'm trying. It to, but my other car is a camaro with summer tires, which I'll be driving until I get the truck fixed. But I can't afford new tires for the car right now, and I can't afford to keep making big fixes on the truck. I'm trying to not some things out when I can as preventative maintenance, but there's only so much I can di


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superdave

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If you work at the dealership, won't they give you a hand towing it over so you can check it out inside?

The service writer is going to price replacing all the metal lines from the tank to the engine. That's why the quote will be so high. For "safety" reasons, that is most likely the only way they will touch it. You can probably replace a section of a line if you do the work yourself.
 

adray96

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I don't know if they can help with towing, we don't have a truck or anything.

I talked to to a couple buddies at work today, and one suggested I take it to a smaller shop where they'll probably splice it, and the previously mentioned service writer agreed. I'm leaning towards that, since I was told that it'd be $1500-1800, which don't have. Of course, it'd be a temporary fix till spring, when I'll park it and redo my the lines and pump for the truxk


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magimerlin

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Where is the line leaking at? Can you get to it easy... you can always cut it at the leak. Slide a couple flare fittings on the line, flare the line then put a union in it... like 10 bucks in parts and your time... if need be you can always take the bed off the truck. Grab a few friends to help you lift it off.... only 6 to 8 bolts and a wire harness.... whole job (if removing bed) should only take a couple hours.... if don't need to remove bed whole job in about 1 hour max...

sent from what use to be a great country...
 
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